hatchsub

I think hes asking for the price breakdown...as in how much it would cost for him to buy just the trans from the junkyard. That is if i read it right.

It will be alright short term but eventually the rust will show up again and if its under bedliner you wont know until its too late. My best advice is to find someone with some welding skills or learn to weld yourself. You can patch it with bondo and fiberglass and have it look ok for a year or two but eventually it will rot out worse than before. Once rust is there its a devil to get rid of. Oh and the rust converting spray never really works in my experience.

:lol:

messier yet you can just pound a screwdriver through it and turn it off that way. Ive needed to do that several times on other cars ive had unfortunately. Be prepared to get messy however.

Yea thats what i figure as well...either that or when i want more power build up the hydro lifter one and slap these heads on that. Now im getting ahead of myself lol. Valves are all adjusted, valve covers are on. Everything is set except the intake. Since i had .030 shaved off both heads it no longer bolts on so i have to enlarge the bolt holes . Im spent for the day though so that will be tomorrow night or something around there.

I have permatorque gaskets so im all set as far as the retorque goes. I was wondering to myself if i could get away with doing something like that. So..because i had a gunky EA81 to use parts out of i pulled apart the rocker arm assemble and used just those two pieces where the bolts go into and torqued the heads on that way...then pulled those two bolts off and torqued the rocker arms back on. I did a final torque of 54 because of the permatorques and because of the slightly higher comp ratio. Thanks guys for answering so quick. Now on to adjusting valves for the first time...where the hell did i put my ratcheting boxended wrench.

Ok so i put everything together loosely and ran into a snag. How the hell do people put a socket on the center nut that is under the rocker arm shaft? I was no where NEAR fitting on that bolt. I have a 6 point 17...does it make that much of a difference between fitting and not fitting? My HTKYSA book says a thin wall 17. Well mine is thin wall but its no where near fitting on that one nut. Then my book goes on to say now that everything it torqued down remove the rocker arm assembles to install the pushrods...what was the point of torquing it all down if your going to disturb it anyways.

Do you know how to weld and/or have a welder? If so you might want to start. Its not that hard and once you get good at it you will have no problems keeping the rust at bay. I had some minor rot starting on my coupe and i attacked it before it got worse. The worst thing you can do is let it keep going. The quicker you fix it the easier it will be.

Good source would be ebay, craigslist or right on here in the classifieds. They come up from time to time. You can get a 32/36 off another car and just jet it correctly for your subaru too.

Another thing i just thought of that you may want to look into is setting the floats in the carb. Mine was supposed to be correct but was way off right out of the box. There is a explanation of how to do it somewhere on this board or no the net. Im too tired now to hunt and am heading to bed in a few but if you dont find it ill look around a bit more tomorrow and post up.

good catch. Didnt even think that one through.

could be any number of things...but all go the the clutch area. Stretched cable not allowing it to disengage all the way, broken fingers on the pressure plate, clutch that has rust welded itself to the flywheel and pressureplate (yes it has happened and ive seen it now). My personal vote is the cable.

Well guess i should have specified that one. It is going to be High compression. I got .030 shaved off the heads. Its going to be stock pistons and cam (for now). Im just throwing this motor together so that i have the subaru back until i have more time to actually fully build the motor i really want.

I love your driveway lol.

Should i add a few ft pounds to the final number since im using permatorques or just leave it at 47. I heard some on this board do that?

Well carb is pretty much tune and run it too..its just with a screwdriver instead of a computer . Glad you got it all sorted out. Its amazing what a few little changes to a carb will do. You probably got a big jump in power now that you got that sorted out and the timing where it wants to be.

Just looked in my HTKYSA book. It gives the torque sequence of bolts including the rocker assembly bolts which i was a bit surprised about. But my main question is what is the final torque number for EA81 heads? My book was saying something in the 40s (47 ft pounds i think). Is that correct?

Thats not really a good idea. The O2 sensor is meant to get hot in order to get an accurate reading. Moving it farther away from the engine will mean it wont get hot enough to work correctly and therefore you car will most likely run rich or throw an O2 code. You "can" get a heated O2 but im not sure why you would want to go through the trouble or the expense.

Air correctors are off. Primary should be 170, secondary should be 160. Fuel pressure is too high for a Weber. It should be about 2.5-3. Are you running a return line off the weber? Many on this board take the fitting from the hitachi and fit it to the weber. Everything else is right for a semi-stock EA81.

There are a few members on here (turbone comes to mind ) that have been running the EA82T with success but at a cost. The problem with the turbo EA82s is that they are over 20 years old now and most have not been cared for the way they should have. If they overheat once or twice you can kiss your headgaskets goodbye. They didnt make all that much power stock which is why most people will tell you to just drop a EJ in and get a bit more reliability and power with no turbo. I have seen both sides of the coin and would personally not buy one but if i did find one in awesome shape..i might change my mind. As for the EA81T, its was a fairly rare motor that has a lot of hard to come by parts. The heads, intake, and all the sensors are specific to it from what i reacall. It uses a flapper maf and only made 95 hp which stock is almost not worth the gain over an N/A especially if you just do a few power mods to the EA81. In the end its up to you. If as you say your not scared of turbo 4's then by all means. Im going to come right out and say it...i run a weber on a EA81 N/A for the simple reason thati like it simple lol.

All automatics were single range. When you say you only found turbo models with autos are you talking about the EA81 body style (83.5-4). Those only came with autos and made 95 hp compared to 74 for the carbed version. I personally would look for a 83-87 brat or a hatch for a wheeler. Most will tell you to find a hatch because of the shorter wheel base than other EA81 cars.

7 degrees is wrong even for a stock EA81 let alone a modded one. Stock is 8 degrees. Most people with webers and exhaust run 10-12 degrees depending on what fuel you run. You might be able to pick up a few hp doing that.

EA81 is the engine designation for the 109ci (1.8) liter ohv engine. What you are referring to is the EA71 (1.6 liter) motor. Does your motor say EA71 next to the distributor or EA81. There is no such thing as a 1.6 liter EA81.

Thats with any auto to manual swap...the inhibitor switch that keeps you from starting it in any gear other than park or neutral. You just have to jump two wires (the big ones if i remember right) together.

Hey thanks Pete. Im actually putting the coupes original motor back together since it never got the oil contaminated like the one from the sedan. The heads from the coupe were also in very nice shape (should be with only 52k). I got them done up (ie full port work, 5 angle valve job, a .030 shave and new valve seals). Im just waiting on gaskets now. As for the hydro one that something happened to..im not convinced it was headgaskets....maybe but i examined both of them and they both "seemed" fine. I will have to take some pictures for the more educated however. The intake valves on the side that didnt have great compression looked HORRIBLE. So much junk caked on and they were white (burned?). Also both passenger side pistons were caked in carbon to the point i was flaking it off. The drivers side ones looked just as clean as my 52k mile motors pistons though. So...something is def going on with that side. Im not sure what though. Spark plugs from that side looked a bit hot (lean) so im thinking the heads just go so junked up they didnt flow enough and didnt seal well anymore. Odd cause it only has 115k and i took good care of it (so i thought).