hatchsub

I should add to this...if and when you want to sell this PM me. Ive been looking for a sedan or coupe for awhile now.

LMAO!

I stuck with 10w40 in my EA81s all year round.

Do more searching. If you own that car now you will have to learn how to scour the internet for something stupid because there are not many coupes out there. I did a 1 minute google search of phils rotary in AU and came up with a phone number. Call them. https://www.google.com/#q=phils+rotary+in+australia

A 5 minute search yielded this thread of mine from years ago. The name of the place is Phils rotary products. Make sure to talk to them on the phone and email them a picture or two of your car. They got me the wrong gaskets a few time before they sent the right ones. They are good quality however. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106401-what-are-my-options-windshieldrear-window-seal/?hl=%2Bcoupe+%2Bwindow+%2Bgaskets&do=findComment&comment=897808

Your going to have a very tough time finding aftermarket rims for our cars. Its the bolt pattern. 4x140 is only an old subaru and peugeot thing. Your cheapest bet would be to find some peugeot wheels at a JY. There is also a page around here somewhere showing all the different style wheels that fit. Your factory wheels are 13x5.5.

Its been awhile but basically i bought a Innovate LC1 wideband gauge and O2 sensor combo. I welded a bung in the exhaust y where both banks of cylinders come together. I then followed the instructions on hooking the gauge up. If memory serves the gauge only needs power and ground to work correctly. I think i just tapped into my power wire from the radio to be honest. Their directions are pretty good as to how to hook them up. I made sure to hook it up temporarily however as all i wanted to do was tune the carb and pull it off. It was bought for my camaro really and is installed permanently in that. What i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovate-LC1-Wideband-O2-DB-52mm-Kit-RED-Gauge-Display-LC-1-Tuner-Combo-/400886192669?hash=item5d56adda1d:g:gY0AAOxy4XNSRGA3&vxp=mtr Instructions for install: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/111557-How-to-properly-install-an-Innovate-Motorsport-LC-1-Wideband There is also a PDF direction from Innovate that i would read first.

Seats really didn't change much over the years. The difference is whether or not the car was 4wd or 2wd. 4wd cars had the vinyl on the side bolsters and a different design of cloth on the center where as 2wd cars had full fabric. Then depending on color you could get different grades of fabric. My tan sedan and coupe were both 83s with the same interior and it was a pretty thick strong feeling fabric if that makes sense. My blue 86 hatch had velour like fabric. All were 2wd however.

when i tuned my weber i did not do it by the seat of my pants. I hooked a Wideband O2 sensor into the exhaust and fine tuned it. At idle you want around 14:7 or so and at full throttle you want 13:0-13:2 or so. I found with my setup it wanted to be a bit leaner at idle and that it wanted more fuel at full throttle. I upped the secondary jets to get my full throttle mixture just right and then i was done. As for soot...i think there was black in the tail pipe with my weber too but not a lot. I think there was more with the factory carter-weber or the hitachi lol.

Message backwoodsboy on here. He is a subaru parts manager in NY. He can help you get what you need to have it run well again. Gaskets....hahaha good luck. There is a place in Austrailia that i went back and forth with before i got new windshield and rear window gaskets. It was a pain but worth it. As for side windows i bought the last full set of Subaru gaskets for the rear windows. They are on my former coupe down in Virginia. If you need the name of the place it will take me a bit of searching to figure it out.

Oil up the dipstick that is black is NOT a sign of burning oil. Being low on oil and seeing blue smoke out the tail pipe is. Chances are you are not burning oil at all and just leaking it profusely from all the dried out seals on the motor. Here is a good list of things to do for that motor if they have not already been done: 1. Get a HTKYSA manual 2. Reseal the valve cover gaskets, oil pan (and rear main if your really adventurous and its leaking bad enough to warrant) 3. Replace the oil pump as i said in your last thread. Its cheap insurance against possible engine problems in the future. 4. Throw a new PCV valve in there. They are 3-4 bucks at the parts store so why not. 5. Adjust the valves while the covers are off. They are supposed to be adjusted every 30k miles or so and i bet yours have never been done. There is a good writeup in the HTKYSA manual on it. Im going to advise against you doing an EJ swap. Work on understanding how everything works and getting this motor to run well first and then later down the road when you are more proficient with a wrench you can tackle the EJ. The EA81 is literally the most bulletproof motor that subaru ever made in my opinion and is a GREAT first time motor for a young guy to work on just starting out. In fact a EA81 subaru was my first car and I've had three in my lifetime and hopefully more if i can ever find a rust free coupe like yours.

Just make sure to get both filters. One by the tank and one in the engine bay. Most parts places don't show both on their computers for some reason.

Your not super far from me if you want another set of eyes to take a look shoot me a message. But I'm going to agree with what was said above. Sounds like something is plugged up. The best thing i ever did with these old EA81s was get rid of the hitachi and put a weber on. Its not so much for the power increase. You will see a tiny bit of increase but nothing to write home about. It was more about the drive-ablity. It started easier in the cold and idled smoother and smoother acceleration. Oh and gas mileage actually went up for me. I went from 27 with the hitachi to 30mpg with the weber. That was with a lot of tuning however.

i second this. My last EA81 ran a full stainless exhaust with a magna flow and it sounded nice. Not rice-y at all.

Best thing i ever did was swap to a weber. You will need a hitachi intake manifold as said as well as the whole kit for our cars (weber + adaptor). For intake manifold gaskets make sure to use subaru only!!! There are threads on here about how to hook up the PCV system correctly. If you follow how the factory did it, it should make sense. Then the only vacuum line you need to hook back up is the vacuum advance on the distributor. It really cleans up the engine bay and makes it easy to work on.

There is a page somewhere on here showing all the 4x140 wheels that will fit. With that in mind however i would hop over to the classifieds. Carfreak85 has a set of gold Enkei's for sale for a reasonable price that would look PERFECT on your car. As far as suspension there is nothing aftermarket for these cars. You will have to make your own stuff if you want it to perform better. I took a EA81 coupe pretty far but if i did it again i would want more. Basically my recipe was this: EA81 Turbo front sway bar (its solid instead of hollow) EA81 turbo front springs cut down one full coil KYB GR2 struts and shocks XT6 rear sway bar welded onto the lower control arms and shortened. All that stiffened it up considerably I'm sure i could have done more. How low are you looking to go? You really don't want the tucked look because the suspension is not designed for that and it will handle and ride like poo.

Clean out your PCV system and valve. Its a bolt in valve at the back of the intake. I bet the valve is stuck closed and/or the hoses are filled with crud.

I saw the mileage that your dads car had (120k or so i think). Id be suspecting the oil pump might need replacing. 25psi at idle is normal. Any lower is not. A new oil pump is cheap insurance for such a nice car and its easy to change out on those motors. Just take your time and make sure not to over tighten bolts. Also be careful pulling the pump out. Many a person on here have broken the end of the pump off in the motor. Its not the end of the world if that happens but its a bit of a pain. I believe the pumps come with a new gasket but ask when you order it. Oh...and get a real subaru pump not aftermarket.

hahahhaha damn u beat me to it. Honestly if you drive an old subaru in PA or New england it is going to rust no matter what. I spent so many countless hours cleaning my cars and then still having to cut out rust and weld in new metal every few years. The stuff they put down is awful. If you have a really clean car rust-wise i advise you to get a clapped out junker that runs good to drive in bad weather and tuck yours away. In reality its the only real way of keeping it from rusting. If it already has rust however...there is no real getting rid of it permanently. Others may tell you that you can but even if you get all the rust when you cut it out....you will never be able to get it sealed up like the factory did.

There are members who have enlarged the factory openings and installed 6.5 round speakers for a more factory look than using 6x9s. The factory 4" speakers are a joke aren't they?

It shouldn't matter so long as you get everything associated with the type you choose. Your best bet is to find a parts car in a JY with all the AC stuff intact and grab it all.

The swap that everyone used to do is the XT6 alt swap which is an option too. There is plenty of info on that on here. The nissan one is probably easier though as the XT6 swap requires a custom spacer to be machined.

I have one bad experience with a fram filter which will steer me away from them forever. On the first oil change of my 'new to me' 360 magnum in my dodge truck i removed the fram filter that the previous owner had put on and found out there was NO oil in it. Now this motor does not have an oiling problem and runs great with good oil pressure but the frams from what i read do not have an anti-drainback valve and all the moving of the motor from one truck to the other caused all the oil to return to the pan. I would personally like oil in the filter on first startup.

I heard someone from New Jersey was flying in to get it. I have a sinking suspicion that its that dealer that we have all seen with clean cars for high prices on ebay.

I was perusing CL yesterday morning and came across a 1984 Subaru GL turbo coupe in Wyoming at a dealership. It was super clean looking so i figured it was pricy but decided to call that night. I called...found out it was sold and the kicker....they were only asking 1500 bucks!!!!! It had 113k miles on it. Idk i just had to vent. I keep being at the wrong place at the wrong time, too late to the show, or don't have any money when the good deal comes along. Blah. That one is going to haunt me for awhile though. Someone got themselves a deal. Anyone on here?