hatchsub

Ah so was it only the california 2wd cars that got the single ASV pipe coming off the head? Cause mine is a 2wd carter weber originally (well the sedan and coupe both were) and they both had fittings on both heads and two ASVs so i was under the impression they were california emissions but i guess not?

I was going to mention those but figured the chances of him finding them were slim so i didnt bother. I have never personally seen them and i know others have not either. They are not nearly as common as the pipe connection spacers. Would i love to have a set..yea i would but blocking the ordinary ones with a quarter works just as well.

The spacer really shouldnt be removed to be honest. The easiest way to remove the pipe is to cut the pipe and put an impact on that nut on the spacer. After you pull the nut out put a quarter into the spacer and then impact that nut back on top of the quarter. Im honestly not sure it can be done with the engine in the car since i did mine when the motor was out. The reason i say dont remove the spacer is it that now your bolting the exhaust directly to the head which is now an inch or two higher up. The exhaust wont sit where it needs to.

More likely a exhaust leak that as the motor heats up it goes away enough to not allow any air in the exhaust. What your hearing is unburned gas being combusted in the exhaust. You need air for combustion and therefore i bet you have a blow out manifold gasket or two...or at least one starting to go.

officially registered. Cya guys there friday nightish.

I had a similar problem with my EA81. It ended up being something simple. I needed a new radiator cap. When the coolant heats up it does go up and will overflow with no cap. If you dont see any bubbles in the coolant however im not sure you have blow headgaskets. I would try doing a compression and leakdown test to see whats going on and also spend the 5 bucks on a new cap and see what happens. These engines dont have overflows so if the cap is not holding the pressure it needs to then it will boil over.

yea i havent signed up for it yet.....eeeps. Missed that deadline. I think going to ask about that weekend at work this week and apply very VERY soon. Not too much of a rush now that i already missed the deadline for the discount.

They are labeled for a GFT leone coupe. Bells should have range when i read that but i just assumed that they would work for mine. Im working on making sure they are for that model and also finding out what other models they fit. The company i bought them from said mid 70s 1800 GFT subaru which is what you have i think correct? If your really serious and want to email me some close up pictures of both windows specifically the corners of the gaskets that would help in identifying positively if these are for that model car.

Arno i dont suppose you need new window gaskets front and rear? I have a set i bought incorrectly thinking they were for my year car but are not. I would have PM'd you about this but it seems i cant? Anyways they are brand new only taken out of the bag to verify that they were wrong. Let me know. They were 250 shipped.

Since i know some of you dont get into the classifieds section too much ill post these here too. I hope this is not against board rules posting it twice. There is only a limited time these will be for sale though so i wanted everyone to get a peek first. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111191

will probably run you in the 80-100 dollar range to have a upholstery shop do it just a warning lol. Ive had headliners done before cause i didnt feel like messing with it. Also that price is if you bring them the headliner board and they dont have to take it out or put it in themselves.

I take ^ back. I might be able to make still. I have to ask for those days off though but its still far enough away that i can.

Very good advice. Ive taken a welding course in the past and that is exactly the way you want to go about it. You want to clean all the grease/paint/debris off and make a nice v shaped area for the weld to penetrate down into. U do want them butted right up next to eachother with this v shapped channel. It should be plenty strong then. What are u using for a welder and how thick is this metal. If its 1/4 or over i would recommend stick welding it.

There were very rare hard to find 13x6 enkei's like the ones we are running but wider. There are also the 14x6 enkeis that Kostamojen imported from japan. Those are about all i know. Have u seen the wheel page? There have been wider 4x140 wheels that pop up from time to time but have not seen any recently. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

From the sounds of it i should stock up on a few things. I have a brand new (well 7 years now) water pump on the tried and true hydro that i have in the coupe now but i know that those only have a certain life span. I might want to think about buying two of those and two of the oil pumps while i got the cash cause honestly i dont plan on running another motor anytime soon. I love the simplicity and answering questions like "where are the timing belts?" People on this side of the US are clueless about this car.

No flaming necessary lol. I wont speak for other members on here since i dont know the reason that they went the HiPo EA81 route but the reason im doing it is 3 things really...to be different than others who just drop an EJ in, they are way simpler motors, and to keep it looking somewhat original under the hood. I personally love the EA81 and think (the same as others) that it was the best pushrod flat four that subaru made. Yes its true i could get more power by just dropping an EJ under the hood and i have thought about it but whats cooler than blowing the doors off a newer car to have them ask if i swapped an EJ in only to pop the hood and see a single (or possibly dual webers) sitting pretty under there Ive ridden in Backwoodsboys lifted and HiPo'd brat.....hes got 29 inch tires and it put me in the seat more than mine. I cant wait to feel it in a 2wd with stock 13s

Not registered yet cause it looks like i have to work that entire weekend . This new job is no good. Ive been working 60-70 hour weeks and lots of saturdays now turned to saturdays and sundays so straight work no weekends. Im probably going to quit soon cause i have some other gigs lined up. If i do then ill register. If i dont then i think im out. There is more wrong with it then just the crappy hours but thats a big part of it.

Ok noted...either 4wd clutch disk setup or xt6 (ponders if connie still has any Xt6 goodies like that lying around)

Ok everyone answered that question. Those are out. Thanks guys. Game plan back on track New question....will a stock 2wd clutch with about 30k miles on it now hold up to the 100 or so hp that i think my motor will make when done? Btw those are on ebay if anyone else wants a go at em

If its that close couldnt you play around with the bolt holes on the intake and enlarge them a bit as well as port the intake and and head so that the ports line up (so port the inside edge of the intake and the outside edge of the head)? 2mm is a good amount to be shaving of a head. Thats almost .080" shaved off each head. As far as i kno the max u can shave is .050" which is what most aviation EA81 guys are running. Your going to be running into valvetrain issues and custom pushrods and such if you shave that much. Anything can be done with enough money however....

I have been thinking of doing this for some time now and i think its getting closer to the time when i will actually dive in. I do have a a few questions though. I had a rough game plan worked out that involved: -Heads done by Jerry Demoss -delta cam (probably hp grind but not sure just yet) -SPFI pistons -Single weber tuned....for now -and possibly new everything like bearings and such-mind u this is going into a EA81 with barely 53k miles on it. Here is the wrench thrown in the mix though from that formula. I have the opportunity to purchase some domed pistons for an EA81 made by an aftermarket company that no longer exists. I dont know what it would do to the compression ratio or the valve clearance because i have seen how high up on the block the SPFI pistons go and there is virtually no clearance with those if i were to deck the heads .030. Here is a picture of the pistons he sent me. Or would it be a matter of...if i were to use these pistons i dont deck the heads at all? Thoughts? Im just worried that it will be too much and i wont be able to run it on pump gas or that the pistons will be the wrong sizes ( i know that there is an A and a B size piston). Let me know.

+1

No they are not. Flywheel bolts are about twice as long.

Ah ok u had me worried for a second.

36 grit is REALLY course. You may be making more work for yourself down the road using a grit like that. Ive done my fair share of body work and have a buddy in the business and he never goes to a courser grit than 80 on cars as far as i know. The reason being you are putting some seriously deep scratches that are going to be hard to fix later. High build primers may hide them for awhile but when it shrinks your bodywork will show through and you wont be happy with it anymore.