hatchsub

There are little guide pins that align the trans and engine together. They really like to jam themselves tight over time especially if the motor and tranny have never been separated. The best way i have found to separate a trans and engine is to work around it with a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. Just tap the screwdriver in between the engine and trans all around until it frees itself from the pins. Then you should be able to pull them apart (maybe with a bit of wiggling still).

Wont work. As was said earlier if you were to pull the hitachi and hold the weber up to the intake u would find out why immediately. The weber base is monstrous compared to the hitachi. And you shouldnt need to cut your hood to make a weber and air cleaner fit. You need a 1.5 inch air cleaner rather than the 2.5 inch one or you need a lift to drop the engine. One way or the the other it will fit.

Gear oil i would go 75w-90 non synthetic. For tranny fluid HTKYSA calls for Dextron II. I dont think that Dextron III would hurt anything either however. The parts place you buy the oil at should be able to recommend what to use. I think when i did a flush (ages ago) i used dextron III and it was just fine.

Probably not if he keeps it THAT clean and THAT waxed. He knows he has something special.

Im not sure to be honest GD. I did have to cut some of the rubber line to fit it into my setup. I dont think there was a check valve in what i took out. There is a hose connection in the middle of the line that could be the check valve you speak of however. Im going to start simple and replace the rubber line and see where i stand after that. If it fixes it great...if not ill keep working my way up until it works to my standards lol.

Usually overcharging is due to a faulty voltage regulator. I had one so bad that did that so i just turned on every single thing i could think of to bring the voltage down until i got to the JY and pulled a good alt.

Well im not sure what i did yesterday in the process of taking the cruise cables all apart...cleaning them and making sure everything moved smoothly it works again...but still not perfect. If i set it for 70 it falls back for a second and catches at 65 or so. I think it is vacuum related and that line going to the vacuum diaphragm is 28 years old and probably could stand a replacement.

If you have the bars from the RX just use those. As i said your not going to notice a night and day difference. Its definitely better with the sway bar but not so much as to spend that much money on it. Hell thats getting close to enough to get a set of decked and ported EA81 heads from our own Jerry DeMoss

I dont believe i have a pedal actuator. It is all cable operated with one main cable going into a box and the out to the carb and another cable that is hooked up to the main cable and goes up to the vacuum diaphragm. I tried swapping out diaphragms today with no change in the way it works. I dont believe i have a vacuum leak anywhere or at least one big enough to affect it that way.

About 225 so...still friggin expensive for a sway bar. http://www.flightpedia.org/exchange-rate-250-aud-usd.html

I made mention of this in my other picture thread of the car but now im making a separate post to figure out what the hell is going on. The cruise i have is from an hitachi equipped EA81 (to work with my weber correctly). It worked great when i first installed it and would hold a highway speed no problem. Now when i turn it on on the highway at around 65 or 70 the light comes on but it will not set the speed or hold it or do anything really other than light up saying its on. Now here is the kicker. It will work at lower speeds around town...say 40 or so and maybe a hair more. All functions of it work at low speed but i cant get it to work at highway speeds like its supposed to. What should i be focusing on with these symptoms. Where is the cruise computer located and could it just crap the bed just like that?

I have an XT6 rear sway bar in my EA81 coupe. It is a 20mm solid bar (rather than the 18 or 19 that the RX had). It def flattens the cornering a bit but would i spend 250 to do this upgrade like the aftermarket bar your talking about...nah. Just find someone parting an XT6 and have them take the bar off for you along with cutting the mounts off the trailing arms. Then either weld it on yourself if you trust your welding skills or have a shop do it.

Not many in this area anymore but if Pauls going you have a good shot at seeing one (still unsure what the surprise is though).

Ride is good. I bit harder than stock but not objectionable. It still leans a bit more in the corners than i would like even with the cut springs, XT6 rear sway and solid 20mm EA81 turbo front sway. but its not bad. Makes for a fun daily.

No reclocking. 2wds just sit lower in the rear. This one actually sits a bit higher than the sedan did with the same exact suspension. The fronts however are chopped. I cut a full coil out of some EA81T springs. There are more mods on this thing than i can think of at this moment.

Hmm well something got screwed up then cause it will kick in at the low speeds but not the high. Anyone kno what i should be looking for for this. I think im going to start a separate thread about this later.

Haha yea its doing good other than the leaking front and rear window and cruise issues (least of my worries). For some reason i can get the cruise to work at low speeds around town but not on the highway. Would anyone know what would be causing that? As for the luggage rack...it wasnt really my style. I like em but the lighter the better in my eyes. That thing added somewhere in the range of 40-50 pounds to the trunk. And it was just another place for water to leak in and rot things.

I sold a very nice one built by roobuilders (now gone) for i think 50. It had none of the normal running problems that people associate with hitachis. I just wanted more carb and mechanical secondaries.

Im running 175/70/R13 Bridgestone Primewells. They are ok tires but i think you will be happier with the Kumhos. They seem to be wearing very well but they are anything but a performance tire. Not too much noise on the highway though and very smooth ride which is more what i care about. http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=135&Cookie=Shopzilla_Primewell&details=Ordern&typ=D-103352&ranzahl=4&nichtweiter=1

I had a similar thing happen to my car awhile back and it ended up being shifter bushings. Out of 4 bushings i had 1/2 lol. It made it very hard to find 1st and 2nd and almost impossible to find 5th (2wd). I would get under the car and find out whats going on. Also check your role pins. They could be worn out and warrant the GD patent pending fix .

Thanks Shawn. Im actually odd. I prefer the 2wd versions to some extent...the reasons being they are lighter and less things to go wrong. This one ended up being loaded with everything other than the GL-10 options (digi dash and alloys). Also the 2wd versions are basically the only ones left over here since all the 4wd ones were killed during the past 28 years of winters. Haha thanks bud.

If ever i was to own an EA82 era car that would be it...but minus the EA82T . I love that style but would probably crave more power eventually.

Haha yea planning on it. Then again i didnt plan on crashing the other one This one had a bit or rot but nothing terrible. I cut out all the bad metal and welded in new stuff and painted it to match. I guess i did a decent job since most people cant tell it had rust work done. It was not bad by a long shot though for a CT car. 53k miles and counting on the body.

Thanks for the offer. I have an extra vacuum actuator for it but i gotta check the clutch switch too. It might be jammed or something.

Nope these had a full set when i bought em. One is slightly different (darker sticker than the rest) but otherwise they are ok shape. I have no clue where to get them im just happy that i have this set.