hatchsub

Just when i was about to give up...i got it! I have no idea why it all of a sudden decided to go like butter but i had tried hitting it out from both sides and finally i decided to give it a couple more hits on the reverse side from the one i had massacred and it popped right out..and easy on top of it. Wish it had been that easy...idk...hours ago so i could be set to go with this. Tomorrows plan now involves me cutting threads through the shift fork and the shift rod and doing GDs trick.

ok really? I have no clue how any of you got that outside roll pin out. I have been pounding on it and bashing on it to the point im afraid of breaking something and it will not budge. I may just toss the tranny in without replacing it if its that jammed in there. I dont have a clue how they loosen up either.

yea they are roll pins. They looked like rivets with the amount of junk that was covering them. I have the center one punched out but the ouside one is not budging. Was that part #7000? I just got a new seal from napa as well and it does not look like the original but it does look pretty good. GD im keeping the higher mileage unit for now. There is no weird noise when i wiggle the imput shaft and it shifted like butter even though it has higher mileage. I kept pretty good care of it too by double clutching when it was cold out to save the syncros.

Never owned a EA82T and dont plan to. There are only a select few members on here who are making decent power reliably, but they payed for that reliability. I do have to say that the RX is a very cool looking car...the predecessor to the WRX if you want to call it that. If you are handy and can get a good enough deal on it...EJ swap it and get the best of both worlds. Old school looks and modern reliable motor.

anyone?

Anyone know how hard it is to reseal the shifter seal at the back of the trans? Im assuming drill or dremel off the rivet that holds the shift fork on..then pull the seal, put new one in and do GDs bolt trick with the shifter fork?

interior is crap lol. The only thing good on it is the body. The motor and tranny are probably good to but it had carb problems and a messed up clutch. I bought it for the not crunched body.

Hmm well just went and felt the shifter fork where it comes out of the trans. There is significantly less play in gear in my 105k mile one than the other one. Also the imput shafts both have about the same amount of play now that i went and looked but the low mileage tranny actually makes a sound moving it and the high one doesnt.

I have two 5 speed front wheel drive trannies to choose from for my coupe. One is the original with 55k and the other is a known good unit out of my sedan. The sedan one has 105k on it and shifts great but is leaking from where the shifter goes into the housing. The other one is not leaking nearly as bad or at all..but there is more play in the imput shaft of that trans. Which would you choose and why?

Lots of interest period. Saw the question and answer page of your auction. I cant remember the last time i saw that many questions about one car. Good luck with the sale. It came out great!

Now THAT i wanna see pictures of

Well first off are we talking rear bearings or front bearings? 2wd or 4wd. Either way you wont need specialty tools. Just a drift and normal hand tools. Your going to want to take the knuckle off the car to drift out the bearings (at least i would want to). Rears for 2wd are even easier with no drift required. For 4wd im going to assume its just about as easy as 2wd but no clue (im probably the only board member who has never owned a 4wd or awd subaru lol).

Haha no i havent. I was going to post up some pics of the whole process once i had it up and running but ill post a couple teasers. here is what my garage looks like. Sedan is to the right. Coupe engine about to come out Engine and tranny out My buddy Matt showing his love of subarus LMAO:lol: Thats the motor and tranny from the sedan out.

Yea i was going to do that until i found out how damn thick those pipes were. I took the lazy way out and just threw a quarter in there lol.

yea for lack of time i may just say fug it and just clean the bay of the grease and grim and drop the motor and go. There will be other times to clean it just not so easily as now.

haha sure come on over. I got another one on order for tomorrow morning. Take two. I also called up my mechanic and he told me a few tricks to get it in. One of the biggest things is the permatex that is called for in HTKYSA manual. He says not to bother and to put a bit of oil on the outside of the seal to help it in a little. I think that will be how i end up getting it in without messing it up unless you or anyone else has a better way.

my new EA81 coupe has a really ugly engine bay cause of the dealership yellowish crap that they sprayed on when this thing was new. I am using oven cleaner right now and thats getting the dirt out of the bay really well but not removing this undercoating. Does anyone have any good suggestions for getting rid of it? It looks terrible.

Ok well i replaced the rear main today but i think i need to do it again. I dented the gasket putting it in so that the outer lip where it touches the crank is pushed in a bit. So annoyed right now. I think i need to go borrow the tool to install it right. Otherwise this happens. And no i didnt use a screwdriver.

Awesome thats what i wanted to hear. Thanks

I did it up near the actual valve but now that i have the motor out of the car i cut the pipe off and pulled the pipe thread from the actual spacer. I stuck a quarter in there and impacted the pipe thread nut back on. Will that quarter hold up to exhaust heat?

idk if it matters but this motor used to be an auto. Just throwing that out there.

until now i didnt even realize the bolts go all the way through. I think those are more of my oil leak than anything else but while im back there i might as well replace it.

well the oil down below is mostly from the oilpan. But yea i guess when in doubt replace it. There was a good amount of oil around that middle seal and some oil on one or two of the flywheel bolts. how should i got about sealing the bolts? RTV the threads?

More than likely yes. One of my friends had similar issues with duralast starters for his dodge. He just kept changing them once a year. My advice to you is to go to a junkyard and yank a starter out of a EA81/2 car (same starter). Then when you get home pull it apart and replace the contacts inside it with new ones (few bucks from auto parts store). Then reassemble and you should be good to go. These starters are so simple its a wonder that autozone cant find anyone to build them to last. Duralast my a$$

Heres a picture of what im looking at. I cleaned it up just a tad but you can see most of the junk is down low and looks blown up from the oil pan. The gasket im referring to is the smaller one inside the bolt circle.