hatchsub

Just out of curiosity what did you end up doing with the enkeis that were in the back of it?

I dont think we are talking about the same thing. The pilot bearing is in the flywheel. Im talking about the seal that is on the inside of the bolt holes on the back of the crank. There is the rear main..then the bolt holes on the crank...then inside them is this rubber seal. I pulled it out and looked behind and there was engine oil behind it but im wondering if it was just from the way i angled the motor out of the bay.

Early morning bump. I pulled the middle seal (the one on the inside of the bolt hole circle) and it was the one that was seeping a bit...but heres the thing..it looked fine. It was still very rubbery and pliable. Im not sure whats going on here. Anyone got any ideas or suggestions?

I got the clutch and flywheel off the back of the motor to check the rear main (figuring why not its out of the car might as well). I think its fine at first but then i press on the inner seal (there are two a bigger one which is the rear main and a smaller one inside the bolt holes). The smaller one seems to be seeping a bit. What is it and is it part of the rear main? Never having done a rear main i dont know what to look for. There was way way more oil down low at the oil pan than above. It looked to me like rather than having a rear main leak the oil pan leak was getting blown up by the flywheel.

hahah ok thanks guys thats what i wanted to hear. Ear protection it is.

I kno odd question but i want to test out a transmission without putting tons of things on yet. I was planning on just dropping the trans and engine in and firing it up on jackstands (without axles) to see if it would go through the gears and smoothly. Bad idea? I thought i heard i could hurt stuff like that.

Interesting idea but the problem is that most buckets are going to be too tall for the rear. The floor where the rear seat mounts is about 5-6 inchs up from the floor where the front seats mount. Therefore trying to put seats of similar size back there would hard. Also...most buckets are too deep...as in front to back length. To do it you would have to find some smallish buckets that are low cut. Maybe something out of an MG B or something of that size? If you do do it though post some pics. Just one question...why lol?

Nah. Your motor probably ran like absolute crap but i doubt you did anything to it. You just had a massive vacuum leak.

I just yanked the engine and tranny as one piece out of mine. Came out pretty easy actually. Just have to make sure to angle the engine out first.

not me.... (looks around)

Another thing that may make it easier for you to push it back in is remove the bleeder all the way. A similar thing happened to me and i just popped the bleeder and pushed it back in by hand.

Sweet!!! Do that..but keep the gold enkeis If you do end up selling the coil overs and such let me know. I may be interested. Im looking for better handling.

Well did some calling around and some number crunching. It does not make sense for me to keep it. Its time for a coupe. Thats the final say. Ill be talking to you later John about the sedan.

Well holy horse ************...painting it will be 500 bucks to make it look good from him. Let me explore a couple other options. This blows i have no friggin clue what to do and am getting more and more frustrated as i open and close more doors.

yea thats in the whole pros and cons list that im thinking up. I realize rust free does not equal problem free. For the most part mine has no issues (other than rust and now this). So thats one point towards it. Im going to call him back and figure out how much painting will cost..he might even let me spray it who knows...he already said yes to the frame machine that i wasnt expecting.

Ah decisions decisions. Just got back from the body shop. He didnt think it was all that bad. Said i could throw him a 100 and he would show me how to pull it on the frame machine. So there is 100 right there. Now the only thing left to get are some parts and paint and im in business. The only thing i worry about is...if it gets to 400 im STILL left with a car with some rust. The benefit is that i dont have to switch registrations and such so i guess i still win in the end even if it does hit close to that number.

hahaha will let everyone know whats happening soon. Im heading over to the bodyshop sometime around 12:30.

Crap. Now i understand it. Im screwed. A portion of your burden has been lifted lol.

Got it. Now to get some supplies to fix mine.

Ok thanks GD. I gotcha but just one more question...it seems like the hose that goes to the PCV doesnt reduce down to 1/4 inch and stays big? How is that going to help my oil sucking problems. If i understood it stays big but the hose going to the breather (air cleaner) reduces. Or is it the air cleaner that is sucking the oil to the pcv valve and the 1/4 reducer keeps it from doing that?

Yup...asking it again seeing as how i have oil everywhere from my pcv. I know how you hooked it up using that specialized hose that drops down to a 1/4" or thereabouts but i saw recently another post of yours saying you could just hook the passenger side directly into the air cleaner and hook the drivers side directly into the pcv? Would that be another acceptable way of doing it? And before someone jumps down my throat...i did do a search...just couldnt find it:rolleyes:

STD hatches got 4 speeds. Thats it as far as i kno.

Brat and GLs are the same exact beast under the skin. That boot is the one you want since the passenger side DOJ is prone to cracking apart from the heat of the exhaust right under it. Im referring to the last link you posted. Go for it. Especially since your joint isnt making any noise. Just make sure there is no junk in there...throw a bit of extra grease in and you should be good to go. Since it "just" happened it should be fine. Otherwise i would be advising you to replace the entire axle but no noise and fresh tear means try the boot.

Haha no worries John. And i would be pulling the motor and building it up if it wasnt my only mod of transport..that and the whole money thing . Im going in for a job interview this afternoon and i have another sorta informal one tomorrow at the bodyshop so we shall see. One way or the other as i said im not leaving old subarus.

Go with your thought of using a overflow bottle and see if coolant is escaping that way. I had a similar problem two summers ago and thought i had popped a headgasket cause most of the coolant was gone. Then i realized that the cap might be to blame...not holding in enough pressure and letting the coolant out the overflow onto the ground. I put a new cap on and no more coolant loss which also meant no more heating up.