hatchsub

Ok thats what i was thinking. I couldnt figure out how he was going to secure it other than the pinch bolt. I dont think i would weld on a strut ever. Thats compressed gas in there and if you heat it up enough with a welder it could explode.

Also how are you attaching them at the tops on both and the bottom on the front? Whats the EA82 knuckle look like? I need to figure out a better set up than what i have.

Not if its hooked to the throttle cable its not. Charcoal canister would only be hooked to the carb through vacuum lines.

What car? By left rear im assuming you mean passenger side rear of the engine bay? The only thing i can think of thats there and hooked to the throttle is your cruise control.

Oh shoot. SPFI didnt start until later than 85 huh? he says the injectors are in the intake though.

Thats quite the side note lol. DOJs are the inner joint of the axles. It stands for Double offset joint. You've also heard of CV joints which are the outer joint of the axles. Those stand for constant velocity.

Ok lets see if i can narrow it down a bit. First off this is not a turbo motor correct? The turbo EA82 was the only motor to get MPFI in that body style (xt's got it i believe in Non turbo as well). What you have is SPFI (single port fuel injection where the injectors are in the intake manifold instead of directly in the heads. Things that can cause no compression are: -bad rings -stuck valve/valves -blown headgasket -timing "could" be a factor but if thats the case it would be running on two cylinders ALL the time. In other words the belt that runs the passenger side cam would be so far off time that one valve in each of those cylinders would be left open on the compression stroke. I would be putting my money on either the stuck valves or blown headgasket but only by a bit. Its hard to decide without taking it down. If your getting zero compression from one cylinder only and not the two of them then for me that rules out a timing problem...but then again they do not fire at the same time so timing could still be screwed up but for some reason you could still get a compression reading on one but not the other. How long have you had this car and do you know when certain things were done to it (timing belts and headgaskets in particular)? That could help narrow it down some. EDIT just realized this car has 60k miles on it. I would be willing to bet those are ORIGINAL timing belts and such. My money is moving more towards those belts. They are probably not doing so hot.

Thats not a laptop...thats a calculator jk

What happens if the one your going to get is beyond clean to the point its leaps and bounds cleaner than what you already started? Would there be changing of direction to use the one you have stripped down now as a parts car for that one or are you too far along now to go back?

Brakes? When was the last time ALL the fluid was changed? How are the rubber flex lines? Wheel cylinders leaking? Reason this just came to mind is i just finished doing brakes on mine a few weeks ago and had been driving with terrible front rotors for months. I knew they were bad but didnt think they were THAT bad. Also one wheel cylinder was leaking. I needed new ones anyways so i just spent the money on new brake calipers rather than rebuilding my old ones. If you need to rebuild yours, its not that hard. Dont want to lose brakes halfway across the US. Other than that i think everything else has been covered. Make sure to have plenty of tools on hand and some spare parts. I always carry a spare alternator just in the off case mine shoots the bed. Hasnt happened since i started carrying it though. Other spare parts that are nice to have are a spare distributor and spare coil. If you dont already have these then i wouldnt worry about them. The chance of one of those going is slim but i play safe rather than sorry.

LOL. 'Tis true we are all picture whores.

chances are they wont last year round very well at all. I know that a lot of winter tires are made of a softer compound than year round tires. Therefore if you run them yearround they will be bald by the end of the season because they were not designed to be run in warmer weather. At least thats what happened with a buddy of mine who tried to run Blizaks (sp?) year round. If you want a tire you can run year round get some all seasons. Not really the greatest in the snow but ive been making due with them for years.

I would drain the gas (subaru was smart there is a drain plug) and put some fresh gas in there. Unhook the fuel line from the car after having given it a oil change. Put a good battery in and feed that fuel line into a beer bottle or the like and crank it over a bit until clean gas (not yellowish) comes out the line. Then hook the line back up and give it a go. It might just start. Probably will run like poo without a rebuild but it will probably run. Then the list of things to do would be... -Flush coolant system -fuel filter -carb rebuild or just slap a weber on it -go through the brakes I could go on and on. Basically your going to want to do everything to it since its been sitting for so long. I just did something similar with a vw rabbit i rescued. It had been sitting for around 10 years. I had to drain the gas and ended up putting a new fuel injection unit on it along with a fresh filter. Also had to replace a section of rotted out fuel line. Then she fired right up with fresh gas.

aaww no coupe or sedan love?

Your going to need a power rack and i believe (dont quote me) a power steering cross member for the motor. Also of course the pump and mounting brackets and such. Yes 83 did have power steering stock but only on the upper end models like wagon, sedan, and coupe that were GL or above.

How is everything else in the braking system? Lines? Wheel cylinders in good shape with no leaks? A commonly overlooked thing on these cars is the rear drum adjusters. If you look on the back of the drums you will see a square nut (literally a square around 8mm). You should start soaking both the left and the right sides in PB for a few days so that it will move since it probably hasnt turned in a long time. The rear drums should be adjusted so that there is a slight drag on the drum. Turn the nut clockwise while spinning the wheel (cars in the air at this point and on jackstands). When you get slight drag your done and move onto the next side. Then feel your brake pedal. It will probably be a lot stiffer.

Yes and no lol. The EA81T was MPFI but thats it. All normal EA81s were carbed...either 1 barrel or 2 barrel.

Well common sense would say not to spend any money on the car other than whats nessisary since you are broke college kids. I kno this doesnt work first hand since i was a broke college kid too and still spent money on it. Cheap things to get you going that i can think of off the top of my head. -Stereo and speakers....the stockers are pathetic -Fog lights...you can pick up an install kit at walmart (or equivalent) for about 20 bucks...or even cheaper go to a junkyard and find a car with fogs that you like and pull what you need from that. -depending on junkyard prices and your skill levels (welding and such) you can do new seats. I have seats out of a 99 impreza RS in my 83. It requires making custom brackets though to mount em. They are not just bolt in. -Another thing thats not just bolt in is a rear sway bar from an RX or XT6. Again welding comes into play. Those should get you going for a bit.

Or continuously cut and weld cut and weld like me. Trust me...that gets very old very fast.

Or just double clutch third until you get a new tranny.

are those speakers mounted in your headliner? Are they mounted well? Never seen that on an oldschool subie.

Or the next best thing to a 5 speed.....a brand new 4 speed. I say next best thing just because even with it being new it still is not as great as a 5 speed. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106497

Get em installed in the US. problem solved lol.

DR 4 speed is a direct bolt in. DR 5 speed is almost a direct bolt in. Having never done it i forget what all is involved but its not that bad. GD will chim in soon i think since he has done it. The overwhelming majority has come to realize the DR 4 speed is a hunk of junk over time. 5 speed is a much better designed trans. As for that thread you were talking about Mark i think that was mine...but mine is for converting from 3at to 5 speed 2wd. Most of it would be similar but not all.

5 speed swap time!!