hatchsub

Well so much for that idea. They want way too much for the block to make it reasonable for me to pull it since i probably wouldnt be using it anyways. Oh well. If i was actually going to use it myself then it would be a deal but i was just going to pull it and resell it. Cant justify all day outside in the cold pulling a motor that may or may not be good.

No not very forgiving at all. But running gas def allows me a greater margin of error between penetrating and burning through. It was well worth the expense to switch.

Thanks Jerry . Its been one hell of a good car so id just like to return the favor. I just wish it didnt have so much rust now.

Ok these are not best examples of my welds still since i was still learning on this. I did these about 2 or 3 weeks ago. These are the rear floors before and after. These are the repairs i did on the lower passenger fender. Before: During: After to come....

Fog lights!

Since its a 91 i would assume its the older style dif? Yea as u can see my knowledge of newer subarus is lacking. At least this gives me something to go by.

A buddy of mine just found a 91 turbo leg in the junkyard near us. Its complete with a 5 speed and the Ej22T and all. First off i know this is an uncommon car. How much does the motor go for in the market? And the transmission? What (if anything) should i pull. I was debating pulling the entire motor and tranny as a whole...possibly the rear diff (lsd?). Let me know.

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/brats/bratcolors/bratclrs.html

Um YEA. lol. It made a huge difference. I can run nice clean beads without burning through (when im being careful still). Granted i also had the heat turned a up a bit cause its a floor and i wanted it to be strong. If i had turned it down to one im sure i could have just welded it right along and not burned through at all.

HAHAHA dont tempt me. Its a possibility. As i said i was half serious but thats a big friggin move. That would be the only thing holding me back. As far as the fender goes I already made a new patch using the original as a template and welded it on. I think once its all painted no one will be able to tell the difference unless i show them. And then maybe not even. Ill post a picture of it in my rust fixing thread. Speaking of rust..i just spent all day cutting and welding in new rear floors in a Nissan 240sx. Note to self...those cars are built with crappier steel than old subarus. Didnt think it was possible. But..i am laying nice clean beads most of the time now

Thanks Bill. My inner fender liners are actually in really good shape so i gotta take a closer look at how the water and dirt and junk is gettin in there. I may or may not make that drain hole.

Hey all. Well i thought that the bottom of my fenders were in pretty decent shape for new england. Turns out i was wrong. I pulled the passenger fender today only to find that the bottom 4 inches were pretty bad. I already made a patch panel (pictures to follow in my rust fixing thread) but i wonder about drainage. My question is these fenders rot out because of moisture that cant get out. Would it make sense for me to drill a hole (about the size of a spot weld hole) for a drain in my new patch? Or even two holes? Its down towards the bottom of the car so im not looking for it to look perfect. I just dont feel like having to go in there every few years and fix it again and a again.

LMAO

You must be looking at the wrong thing. I thought...maybe the exchange rate is that bad but no i just checked. It should be in the neighborhood of 350-400 for a new weber carb over there. You sure u didnt stumble across an entire engine or car with a weber attached?

Bill can i ask u to clarify something? You poked a hole on the edge of the diaphragm right where the hole is supposed to be coming from the carb body correct? The first time i read this i thought you just poked a hole in the diaphragm to disable it.

Welcome. I was actually looking at that car on ebay. Yea its a non turbo and kinda weird animal since it is auto. You could get an auto with the normal carbed EA81 but i have only seen maybe 5 of them in all the time that ive been into subarus.

Yea not going to spend over 200 just to save myself a bit of grief lol. I spend 35 a piece on the prop valves and they work just fine.

They dont really exist that i know of. There are fittings that come with the prop valves that you tighten into the valves. I went down to napa and tried to get metric conversion fittings but i guess they dont really make those. Most people who put adjustable prop valves on cars are dealing with standard threads on muscle cars and such and not having to run into the problems that i ran into. I would have loved not having to mess with the stock lines but now that its done its done.

For my EA81 i had a local shop make me a custom exhaust from the heads back out of stainless steel since i was tired of the exhaust rusting to nothing from the inside out after only a few years. I did 2 inch pipes the whole way back. It sounds mellow if not a bit louder than stock but not terrible. I wouldnt go any bigger than 2 for a N/A 1.6. 2 might even be pushing it a bit too big for that motor too. You might want to do 1 7/8 primarys and 2 inch secondaries. The big thing that was holding mine back was the factory restrictive y-pipe (might have been aftermarket too not sure). The drivers side head dumped its exhaust at a 90 degree into the passenger side exhaust. Not exactly good flow for power.

Figured I would bump this one up and let everyone know what i ended up doing. I got two aftermarket adjustable prop valves off of ebay and installed them in the engine bay. Now i make it sound alot easier than it really is. Since the prop valves had standard threads and the brake lines on the suby are metric i had to cut and flair 4 lines. Awesome. It took me awhile of swearing and breaking the stupid 3/16 adapter tool twice to get it all done and leak free. Bled the lines and then took it for a spin on full power and kept turning the rears down until the car will put me through the windshield but not lock up the rears.

Hey Pete. Ive never heard of anyone doing it before but then again i cant really think of a good reason why you couldnt. The rear wheel wells on the loyale are a better design than the brat ones so you shouldnt have the problem with the shock mounts rusting to nothing. I myself would give it a go as long as all dimensions are similar. Lets just say ive see wheelwells made out of old washing machines on brats so anything is possible Edit: Are you planning on cutting both out at the spotwelds and welding em in that way?

I wish i had known about this 3 years ago when i did my XT6 alt upgrade. This would have saved me a lot of hassle.

I have a somewhat similar story of me just goofing around. I was at a light up at uconn and a SRT8 Jeep (hemi for those that dont know) pulled up next to my 74 horse EA81 sedan. I look over at him and he looks at me. I rev it a bit. The turns green i punch it and he floors it and blows by me. I was just laughing at that point that the guy thought it nessisary to show a 74 horse car whos boss. "ok man..u win. Congrats beating my little four with your hemi. Your manliness is noted":lol:

WOW. That looks showroom new. Nice job

That is such a cool looking old car. That 4.1 straight 6 is the reason why its run for such a long time reliably. Thats basically a truck motor if im not mistaken. Super simple to work on and nothing to em. Does that SC stand for "sport coupe"?