hatchsub

Weber carb brand new in the box? If so 300 is not a bad deal at all. Thats about 65 dollars less than what you can get em for from redline. Oh and GD is right. The EA81 is such an easy motor to work on and drive. Ive been driving mine daily for 5 years and love it. Only thing i dislike is rust. Stupid new england.

Yea i knew about the flow direction but didnt know if the lines should be towards the bottom or towards the top of the filter when installed. I did get my answer not too long ago however and finished the job off. For future information...the lines should be towards the top of the filter when installed correctly. This only goes for the filter near the tank however. Engine bay filter should be lines on the bottom except for the vapor line which is at the top.

I just pulled the fuel filter out and am going to replace some fuel line while im at it. I noticed that 5 years ago when i replaced i had put the lines towards the bottom and the filter element towards the top. That didnt seem correct to me though. Should the filter part be towards the bottom and the lines at the top to get the most use out of the fliter? I think i mixed it up 5 years ago but cant remember for sure.

Pros: No adjusting of valves Cons: Valves will "float" at the higher rpms to some extent I also dont think you can use a hydro motor because i think you have a top mounted starter and not a sidemounted one. To use a hydro motor you would have to swap transmissions too.

Dealership

For some reason i brainfarted that the EA71 was continued on at the same time as the EA81s (probably cause i have never seen one other than in a junkyard once). Any EA71 wide case motor from 85 on should be a hydro motor then.

Im going to just clarify this a bit. Both the hydraulic and solid lifter motors are pushrod motors. The difference is the lifters themselves. Therefore i dont think there was ever a Hydro EA71. I think they only did that with the EA81s but i could be mistaken. The EA81s with hydro lifters will have a sticker on the valvecover that says "do not adjust valve clearance".

Just did some running around yesterday and today trying to get the welder set up. I am now running solid wire and gas as well as having the welder hooked up with a 10 gauge extension cord. Over the next couple of weeks im sure there will be more pictures added to this thread and hopefully it will help my welding with this setup.

Sticky valve?

Honesty, another thought would be if the motor is running great why not continue to run it. So what if its got 390k lol. Push it to 400k and take a picture. If it were me i would swap a tranny in and continue to drive it until something happens or until you EJ swap it. You could always get the other motor ready with new gaskets and have it all set to go on the side.

Damn knew it was either the last or the first. Lost that one. 82 was a weird year.

hmmmm...that changes things huh.

Sounds like the voltage regulator went out or should i say is on its way out. If i remember right in 82 it was still a separate unit from the alternator.

Not necessarily. Ive had a bad wheel bearing go thunk thunk thunk and then go away for a little while. A test for wheel bearings is with the car on the ground grab the top of the wheel and rock it back and forth to see if you can get the noise. But...i dont think its wheel bearing either. A DOJ (double offset joint)is the inner joint of the axles (closest to the trans). The outer is the CV (constant velocity). The CV operates in a similar manner as a universal joint on a normal rear wheel drive driveshaft where as the DOJ has the provision to move in and out a bit as well as what the CV does. Thats at least the way i understand it. As for your problem, you said that it looks like the inner section of the axle was moving in a weird way when you spun the axles. Im going to guess that its your axle and not your transmission thats the cause of the problem. I think the DOJ is toast. Do this test as well. Grab onto the drivers side axle in the center and try to push and pull it in. There should be a very little bit of play but not too much. Now grab the passenger side. I bet one of them will have a crazy amount of movement.

If the electrical system is all good i dont see the harm in putting it in. I mean your going to put it in at somepoint either now or after the bodywork. I dont see the difference waiting or doing it now. At least if you do it now you can see what the car is doing. I know there is the fear thats its goiing to blow but if everything that was causing them to go is good now it should (fingers crossed) be fine.

WOW about the boosted Rabbit. Um what fuel system are u running to get it to work. I dont see the braided stainless lines of CIS anywhere lol. Also love the coupe.

LOL disregard this post. Just found what i needed on rock auto. Off to napa!

Just searched old posts and didnt find any mention of it. Does anyone have the part # for the lower fuel filter from napa? They have the upper (engine bay) in their computers but still do not have the lower. I had it written down one time but have since lost it. If worst comes to worst i can crawl under and look to see if the # is still there but i was hoping to not have to until i go to replace it.

Yea it sounds to me like your ignition is on its way out. Things to check however before you get to that is your battery connections (+,-) at the battery and at the starter and ground. Also you can use a volt meter and find out how much current is actually getting to the starter solenoid through that little wire (believe its blue). A way to rule out the starter is with a big screwdriver. Turn the ignition to the run position and make sure its in neutral. Connect the solenoid and the positive lead on the starter and see if it cranks the starter. If it does that right away, and all connections are found to be good then your ignition is on its way out. A common fix is to put a relay in line with the stock ignition solenoid wire (using the solenoid wire as a switch for the relay). There will still be enough juice to trigger the relay and start the car.

Yea im liking them alot too. Ive seen one other set for sale in Aus. Im assuming they are pretty hard to get here in the US.

Huh? Not trying to be rude but i dont think it gets much easier than popping the hood to find out if the starter is directly on top of the transmission or to the right (drivers) side of the transmission. If its on top then no it wont work. If its on the side then yes it will work.

Time to learn the art of doubleclutching lol.

Well there is a factory undercoating on it right now that seems to be holding up fairly well except for the back of the pinch welds. Ive seen what undercoating does when it traps water between the metal and the coating..not pretty. My rabbit is a great example of it.

Eh im not a big fan of undercoating to be honest. Its just another way for moisture to be trapped between the coating and the undercarriage. I am using light coats of rubberized undercoating in the wheelwells and on the back side of the pinchwelds once i clean em up but thats about it. I also used it to try to get back some of that textured look on the rocker with mixed results.

WOW i never would have thought of that. Ok upgraded extension cord on my list of things to buy. Yes the one im using is not a very good one at all. Im going to go bottle and get that cord and we shall ALL see what the difference will be from this repair to my next ones.