hatchsub

That basically sums it up right there. I have NEVER seen a 2wd EA82 turbo anything in the yards where i live. When Skankinpickle offered up the set of rear disks i jumped on em since i doubt ill find another set for a long time. I have no clue what they are off of. As for the valve, i saw two ways of doing an adjustable prop valve which i would like to discuss. One involves two prop valves on each of the rear lines in the engine bay. Looks like subaru made it easy for me even by having some fittings right before the lines go into the firewall. This would probably be the easiest way for me but more expensive since it involves two valves instead of just one. The other way i was thinking would be to put an adjustable prop valve right below the master on one of the two lines coming out of the master cylinder. This brings up the question of whether or not that will work however. Also which line is which coming out of the master (front line for the rears and rear line for the fronts like most cars?) and would it work to have the stock valve and an adjustable right in front of it.

Im almost sure that all the air is out of the front brakes but it could still have a bit of air in there. Im pretty sure i just need to put an adjustable prop valve in there but before i do ill drive it around for a bit and break in the front brakes a bit as well as bleed them out again. I did bleed the brakes enough that there is no old fluid in there. Hell i even bled the master cylinder. Gotta love the bleeder valves on the MS. I wish my camaro was that simple.

Ok so i last weekend i put in the rear disks on my subaru. They work fantastic...so well in fact that they work better than the fronts. I can lock the rears but not the fronts. At first i was attributing that to my pitiful front disks. They were BAD. I just redid the front brakes with new rotors, pads and calipers so that i could get vented rotors. That didnt solve the problem though it did make it a lot less noticable. Am i missing something here? Do I need to get an adjustable proportioning valve like i did on my camaro when i went to 4 wheel disk? Or do i just need to grab a disk/disk prop valve off a turbo EA82? Anyone else run into this problem?

Oh thats right. I was thinking AC for some reason when i was trying to think of if the brats had PS or not. Brats could get AC but not PS. Ok back on track. EA82 manifold it up!

Not sure if he said so or not but...Do you have Power steering? If so the EA82 will interfere with it. That is the only reason i stuck with the EA81 style Hitachi manifold when i went weber. I like my PS. Call me lazy lol.

Dealer is giving you a load of crap. No car finish should be doing something like what you describe..especially a new car. They just dont want to deal with it. Is it sap? What does it really look like? Bubbles? Are we talking very small bubbles? And where are they? All over? If its only in one or two isolated places i have a theory as to what it is. Solvent pop happens when chemicals in the paint from down below come to the surface over the course of a few months. I do not believe it happens with factory baked on finishes. If its only in a few places and you bought it new then it might have been damaged before delivery or during delivery to the dealership. The dealership fixed it and rushed it a bit. It can be fixed if its not too bad (wet sand and a buff) but that all depends on how deep the bubble goes. If that sounds like what it is i would go back to them and tell them to fix it and stand your ground. If they tell you no, tell them you will get the opinion of an independent body shop and then talk to a lawyer about your options cause that isnt right in any way, shape or form. Whether or not you really will is not really the issue. Chances are the threat of it might change their mind pretty quick.

Thanks Rob. I think im going to do the front brakes on Monday after i get the axles redone (again!). I just finished doin the rear disk conversion and you know that something is wrong with your front brakes when you can lock your rears but no matter how hard u press...not your fronts. But....rear disks are AWESOME!!!!

Most likely you shook something up from the tank and might have partially clogged your filters. I would replace em both first (the one near the tank is most critical). I would start there and if the problem still persists then maybe you got something gumming the carb (doubtful but maybe).

Hey i just got new front loaded calipers for the front of my EA81 sedan. How much wiggle room should the pads have? Cause i can barely get one of em to fit in the bracket. I know with my camaro i had to grind the back plate of the pad to give it a bit of clearance to work correctly.

What datsunrides said. If you just leave the repair at that with some primer and paint it will rust again. The only true way to get rid of rust when its pitted like that is to cut it out and weld in new metal. Otherwise your just prolonging it for a year or two and then u got rust again.

They are not that hard to find actually now with the whole cash for clunkers thing is dumping cars in the yards. The last two times ive gone to my local yard they have been overflowing with cherokees (one right had drive even) and yes one two door. If you were closer i would pull a door for you and ship it. I am actually heading to a junkyard this weekend that i can almost guarantee will have at least one two door cherokee but again...shipping would kill you. I think i can get the door for 35 but shipping could be 100 bucks or more.

Just ordered em all up. Total for new loaded calipers and two new rotors was 150 bucks shipped to my door....i dont think thats too bad at all.

Not yet...... Still working on that one lol...or at least making it zippier. Thanks for the advice. Im ordering them tomorrow. Im tired of these warped rotors.

I just now stumbled on those today. Anyone else have any experience with them...because my wallet is guiding me towards the 12 dollar rotors and the 47 dollar calipers. Should i be wary of them or are they good stuff?

yea friggin new england. I have checked the floors from the bottom and from inside. They are solid now. I just gotta worry about fixing the massive amounts of rust. Same goes for my rusty subaru now too .

From what you've said id say that your voltage regulator is shot in that alternator. It might have just been a bad rebuild. The glowing faintly dash lights is one of the signs that its on its way out. Also the fact that you have high voltage and can bring it down by turning on different accessories. I had a VR go out on me one time and my voltage was spiking 18v:eek:. I cranked the stereo, put on the heat full blast (summer mind u), rear defrost and anything else i could lay my hands on to turn on and was able to get it down to 14 to get to the junkyard and get a used alt. I still have that alt to this day as a spare backup in my trunk. I had way too many alternator problems for me not to. Now i just run an XT6 90amp which seems to have solved all problems for me.

I rebuilt the shifter in my suby with new bushings and a new spring. It feels like a new car.

When it dies and you cant restart it and are cranking and cranking it...does the tach move at all? If it does not it is your coil. The tach gets signal from the coil and if the coil is kaput then it will not register that the motor is turning over. Just throwing that out there.

Wow beautiful brat!!! When the carb comes unscrew the front idle jet (the big brass screw on the front of the carb right by the choke housing). Mine came loaded with a 55 idle jet but it would hesitate on the transition from idle to throttle. I upped it to a 60 and it idles smoother and has no hessitation whatsoever. If you have a 55 you can try running it with that and see how i goes but this was the solution for me.

If your in need of a carb then yes i would def recommend the weber. They are a bit of a pain to get tuned just right but when they are right they are RIGHT! I have one on my car and love it. Pump the gas once or twice and it fires right up. Idle is smoother than the hitachi and if you tune the transitions right it performs a bit better too. But just a warning...some people on here will tell you that a weber is a good performance upgrade. If your interested in it for that go elsewhere. It does help a bit but i didnt notice too much of a difference between it and the hitachi it replaced.

These motors are really very durable and with only 82k on it i would say its just now getting broken in lol. If its still got the crosshatching i wouldnt bother. While you have the heads off, and if you have the money, maybe give it a valve job and new seals. Good luck. Btw...that motor looks pretty damn clean to me in the picture.

They are inside the transmission pan on the passenger side of the car if i remember correctly.

Was just going to suggest that. Let me guess...hooked up the secondary barrel vacuum canister to a manifold source of vacuum.

Did it do this before you had the transmission apart? I had something similar happen to me years ago when i went to get an oil pan off one of these auto transmissions. It would not clear the exhaust so i used a screwdriver to try to inch it by. Problem was that i i didnt know that i had crushed one of the metal lines inside the oil pan. No trans fluid pressure = no go. Once i fixed that line everything went back to normal. This is not necessarily the problem but just throwing that out there. Otherwise, as nipper said, you will be looking for another transmission.

No problem bud!