hatchsub

Tisk tisk brian lol. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95843&highlight=exhaust+stud 1 minute.

DOH! I wish i had seen that before i went and bought new bushings from subaru. Oh well. Out of a possible of 4 bushings on the front part of the trans (2 nylon and 2 rubber) i only had 1 1/2 rubber bushings left. And the one rubber bushing that was there was in half so it was more like 3 halfs of bushings lol. Anyways it will all be here on friday and i will have factory like shifts again. Oh and until then i wrapped the center spacer piece with a ton of duct tape lol. Works better than it did before at actually getting into gear. Only until friday will it be like that however.

Well got under the car and found out what the problem was IMMEDIATELY. The joint nearest the transmission output (gearshift area/whatever its called) was missing a bushing entirely. That would def cause some problems shifting and i have no idea how it was lost. Anyways there is a bit of play in the other joint as well but that pivot bushing is nice and tight with zero play and smooth so im not bothering to fix it if it aint broken. Took me awhile to learn that lesson.

Hmm well ill be crawling under to find out exactly what is goin on with it today. Ill report back later on. What makes me think its not the roll pin is that this tranny only has 100k on it...but i suppose since its also 27 years old it could have loosened up.

Well i already replaced some of them...just not the pivot bushing and cushion/seat. I see about doing that this week or tomorrow depending on if the dealership has the parts...which they wont probably. As for my idea..the reason im thinking of it at all is that even when new and i had just put the rubber bushings in the shifer..they still had play to them where i could move the shifter a little ways before actually moving the rod coming out of the transmission. Its a terrible design if you ask me and leaves a lot to be desired. If i could get this car set up the way i want it to be, it would have crisp shifts with none of this sloppy feel in and out of gear. My car isnt even nearly as bad as other EA cars that ive felt but it still annoys me. Ive driven newer cars and ive driven new subarus. They feel tight in and out of gear. Thats what im after. If i cant do it after everything i have planned then ill probably give up but i want to try at least first.

Well yesterday i went for a fall cruise with the Uconn Car club. I was actually able to keep up most of the time with the old subaru but towards the end i started having a problem i never had before. I kept hitting 4th gear when i wanted 2nd and 3rd when i wanted 1st. I think my "spirited" shifts might have pushed something in the shifter linkage over the edge. When i put the tranny in 3 years ago i redid the bushings on linkage but did not touch the actual pivot bushing at the base of the shifter. I will go investigate it tomorrow when its not rainy and nasty outside. I do have a question however. I have often thought about getting rid of the bushings all together in the actual linkage and instead having roller bearings fitted to it all. Would this work? Im just trying to get rid of as much play as possible. And since this is the fwd 5 speed it doesnt have the common problem that the 4 speeds have as far as i kno.

I would bring it to another mechanic who knows what hes talking about or read up on here and do it yourself. Its two belts not a chain.

Lol...thought about it and i would like to but money is not there and i need good brakes. My brakes are terrible so i gotta do it now and just do stock replacement parts.

Not sure i understand this. I was never intending on mixing and matching parts. I was going to get vented disk brake calipers as well as vented rotors so that i have the whole vented package. I just needed the years that i could ask for to get the correct parts.

Yea i swapped it about 3 years ago. I hated the 3at with a passion.

That would mean mine should have vented rotors since its an 83 and used to be an Auto. Now im confused lol

Do i remember right that it was 84? I got an 83 so its got solid rotors that are warped to hell. Going to ebay and getting a set of vented along with new calipers from rock auto.

I figured i would start a thread talking about the restoration that is going on with this car. Im hoping to have it done by the end of the winter or before (yea right lol). Anyways i picked it up about 2 or 3 months ago. It had been sitting for about 10 years or so from what neighbors told me. It was filled with 2 inches of water, smelled god awful, and was rotted out in the rear tail light panel. I have since gotten it running (needed new fuel distributor, fix of a fuel line and a fuel filter), and running pretty well at that. Here are some pictures in order. First ones are taken where it sat. The one spot of rot in the floors. Not bad for the amount of water in there. rusted out tail panel Tail light panel cut out at the spot welds...that was not fun patched floor...not that great but its going to be covered.

Who did the head gaskets? Water bubbling out of the radiator makes me suspicious of head gaskets still.

Top hats are original to the car. Ive had them on and off a couple of times now in my quest to get the passenger side and driver side more equal. What it really comes down to is i need new springs too...just dont have the cash. Should i pull apart that passenger hat and put some grease in the moving parts?

Ok so here is what is new and what i have checked New drivers and passenger axles within the last 10k miles New struts Ball joints are tight Wheel bears seem to be tight as well (jacked it up and tried to wiggle it around) Top of the struts are tight as well. The only thing that has bit of play to it now is the my steering rack. The passenger boot is torn on it and there is a tad bit of play in it up and down when it was on a lift. Could this be causing a clunk when i go over bumps just right and when i let the clutch out in first sometimes?

HAHA that last statement makes two of us. As for the hydro EA81, they have the slightly bigger valve heads so if your going to build a motor use the heads from a hydro motor. The block as i was told is also slightly beefier than a solid lifter motor though i have not had the two side by side. What i have heard is most common however is to use solid lifters in a hydro block. The thought behind this is that the lifters wont "bleed down" in the high RPMs and will continue to open the valves all the way. A bit more power at the expense of you having to go into the valve covers every 15-25k depending on how you drive.

With this statement you kinda already answered your own question. Rip it out. It doesnt work anymore anyways guaranteed unless someone decided to fix the A/C recently. You will drop around 50 pounds of deadweight off the nose. Nothing you will feel but it cleans up the bay a good amount and makes working on the motor easier.

Oh....jeez lol. Now your killin me. I think for now i have to pass just cause i already spent a good amount of money on a new exhaust system from the y pipe back. Full custom 2 inch. I figured if i went any bigger than 2 inch on a N/A it would kill my low end. But thank you very much for the offer

Heads are different as you mention but i dont believe that the US spec heads are as bad as everyone makes them out to be. I talked on the phone with Stratus engines for about an hour as well as some other noted subaru people and the general consensus is that the JDM heads will give you some gains up high in the RPMs, but you will actually LOSE power down low because they flow almost too much. Also our US spec heads have a better flowing exhaust side, with the exhaust having an express route out of the heads where as the JDM ones have to wind around inside the head before dumping out the bottom. Idk this is all bench racing. Ive been chasing after a set of JDM heads for awhile but i dont even think i want em anymore lol. They are too hard to find and if something happens to them...im SOL. My plan is to: -Port/polish, 3 angle valve job, .030 off the surface of the US spec heads -SPFI pistons -Delta cam -Dual carb manifold -high flow exhaust (already there ) This should get me to around 105 hp or so. Stratus has done this basic package except they shave .050 off the heads and they dont swap in the SPFI pistons and they dynoed an engine with this layout at 106 hp. Im guestimating that my planned setup would net around the same. Only time will tell.

Yea i was more asking for the actual rotors and stuff since im short on money. I think i will just save up and get rebuilt calipers and new rotors. I can get a pair of drilled and slotted for 100 bucks on ebay. Not really sure if its worth it or not though since i can get normal ones for the pair for 40. Extra 60 bucks....

Maybe a dealer installed decal set? Are there any other interesting options or just decals?

By 8 spoke variety do you mean Enkeis? I have aftermarket Enkei wheels so they might not clear the caliper. At any rate thats more work than i was hoping for just for a set of decent disk brakes. I guess ill cross fingers that there is an EA81 in the yard with vented rotors so i can at least grab the calipers.

Damn...knew that would be too easy. Thanks for the quick response GD.

Just want the title says i think ill have better luck finding an EA82 at a yard than an EA81. I need new rotors and calipers since mine is a 83 with non-vented rotors and they are warped. Are EA82 vented rotors the same as EA81? Calipers bolt on? Or is everything in there pretty different?