hatchsub

Ive had that problem before as well and i didnt have the tool so i unbolted the front of the hub (those 4 bolts) and then put the axle through the back, popped the washer and the nut on and pulled it through with the nut a bit. Then i put the front of the hub back on and pulled it through the rest of the way.

"you might be a redneck if..." Seriously awesome.

Wow beautiful car and very nice house!!

I am interested in the same thing and have done enough research to agree with GD lol. The weber and the exhaust is what i have on my sedan and while it does make a bit of a difference, it really is not what you will be looking for. I gained maybe 5 horse at most with the exhaust and the weber. As for the mention of the dual carb..that is a JDM motor. It had different heads, cam, and the dual carb intake. It was rated at around 105 horse or so. The intakes do come up for sale every once in awhile but the heads and cam are impossible to find. There is some debate however as to how much gains there are with those heads. I was speaking with the guy that owns Stratus engines (builds airplane motors out of EA81s) and he said that those heads are only good at the top end and in fact you will lose low end using them (surprised the hell out of me). His advice was to port the hell out of the big valve (hydro) EA81 heads and get a performance grind cam. Those and a .030 shave of the heads and you would be making good power. And yup thats what im going to be doing when i get the money. Oh and the SPFI pistons.

Also check to make sure the throttle shaft bolt is not too tight on the weber or you will get binding. Are u using the throttle cable guide from the hitachi or the one that came on the weber?

Yes that would be the big question because everyone wants to run different carbs. I would have to find out what would be the most popular carb out of the many 1 barrel carb options. I myself was looking at a 34 ITC weber but they are $. The dual Kadrons would work too. I dont think it would make sense or be doable to make a carb mount for all the carbs unless they are very similar between the 1 barrels. And it def would not make sense to make all different mounts.

Heres a question for everyone....if me and a friend of mine were able to come up with a design for manifolds that mount the carbs above the heads..and were able to price them right would there be a market for them? Would people be interested? Not saying that will happen or not im just trying to get some feedback.

Im not sure exactly what he meant other than that they were not genuine weber carbs and that there was no aftermarket for them. The are some knockoffs that probably wont perform as well as i would like. After getting off the phone with him it sounds like the best idea for power would be doing two larger single barrels mounted above each head. So maybe custom manifolds are not out of the question just yet. Also those 24/24s dont have a choke...i need a choke.

Well just got off the phone with Bigjim. They are Brazilian crap in his exact words Good thing i didnt bid on em.

I hate u...that is all. Gorgeous brat. Im jealous.

You did just give me a good idea to look at what VWs are running for dual carbs since they are about the same displacement. I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-Dual-24-24-Carburetor-VW-Intake-Chrome-Filter_W0QQitemZ120461198447QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0c0c046f&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 I did not even know that these existed. I wonder how well they would perform on the top of the dual carb manifold. Also is it just me or is there no choke on either of them?

I had thought about that as well but that would be going into the realm of a bit more work than i want to take on. That would involve two completely custom intakes with the coolant crossover. I have also thought about just using the hitachis and either diving in and rebuilding them or getting them rebuilt by a shop. The intake that i have a line on has two hitachis on it still but the need rebuilding from sitting around so long. I could also just do the single 32/36 but i want a bit more eye candy under the hood lol.

A few on here know that im planning a high performance build of an EA81 soon. Im not going to let too much out of the bag yet except to say that it will be running Dual carbs on a JDM dual carb manifold. Here is the question though. I want to run dual webers but the only way that i see them fitting is if i use one 32/36 DGEV (normal subaru weber conversion) and one 32/36 DFEV (the miror image of the DG). The reason for this would be so that the float bowls would be on the outside and give enough room for the carbs to be mounted on the intake. Would this be a good idea though and could i rejet them enough to run correctly? I was looking for smaller 2 barrels or even two big one barrels but the limitation is on the space between the carbs. There is not much on the dual carb manifold.

Haha i never ended up seeing the reply to that thread but i remember it. I was thinking that i was going to be the starter of that thread... Thanks for the pic GD. Im going to see if i can get John to run the part # on it rather than try to find one.

If your really want AWD you should keep looking but if your hesitant because of how well it does in the snow...fwd does just fine. Ive never had an awd or 4wd and i have never had a problem in the winter that i couldn't get out of. Granted AWD is better but just throwing that out there.

You could still get a FWD subaru up until 95 i believe. I had a friend who had a 95 impreza...FWD. That leg is could be either though but since they dont mention it in the ad i would guess its fwd as well.

Probably just off a tooth one way or another. They can be a pain in the a$$ sometimes.

I know I know, I just found your post about using the ea71 tapered "cone" filter or somthing and the cool 5/8"x5/8"x1/4" T that they use to make it soo clean. I just dont konw where to get it yet.... I was also thining of taking a smaller 3/8th hose or even 1/4 in if it fits and slidding it INSIDE the 5/8th hose going to the drivers side valve cover. Do you think it would change the "area" inside the tube to restrict the airflow enough? Just a though for now? Link to this thread? I need to redo my setup as well.

Touring wagon

Basically the only thing that these old motors share in common with the new ones is that they are horizontal 4s. Other than that throw out any knowledge you have of the new stuff cause it doesnt transfer over lol. As said above no timing belts since its a pushrod motor. The oil pump is indeed on the front of the motor and is gear driven. If its not registering any oil pressure and still sounds like its running good then i would bet either the gauge or the sending unit is shot the bed. The sending unit should be hanging below the oil filter (you will see a wire attached to it with one screw). Hope this helps.

Almost positive he had it up on the dyno before and after cause of the lose he felt. Hes got the type of coin to drop for that kinda thing. Sickens me.

Dont retorque the heads. You only do that when you replace the gaskets with new ones. If you have a blown headgasket retorquing em wont help. No need to pull the motor to do the gaskets either. You should be able to do it in car but it is easier to do out of the car.

Nah GD speaks the truth. I have a buddy up at Uconn that has an STI. He bought it with equal lenth headers on it and it sounded like a honda i kid u not. He couldnt take it so he put a stock Y-pipe (unequal lenth) on and got the boxer rumble back but lost something on the order of 30hp.

Hell just put a breaker on the crank pulley and rotate the motor over by hand (with the spark plugs out makes it easier). You should be able to see SOMETHING even without cleaning but then again i have no idea how much surface rust is on your flywheel.

If it hasnt been timed in awhile you might have to clean off some surface rust to see the lines and #s better. Good luck.