hatchsub

Some of the East coasters already know about this but this saturday i roasted a headgasket or two on my EA81 sedan. It was 95 out and i drove 3 hours to the cape. Not a good idea. Anyways i figured i was imune to this seeing as how it only had 76,000 on it and its an EA81. Bubbles in my coolant told otherwise as well as my temp creaping up and the fact that i was half a gallon low on coolant when i checked the next day. Ive been told Rockauto is the best place to buy stuff cheap. I figure im going to buy the headgaskets and valve cover kit. The intake gaskets area already ordered from the dealership. The exhaust gaskets arnt leaking so I think ill reuse them. Just informing everyone and just seeing if im thinking about this right. Im going to pull the motor entirely since its not that much more work to do and i get to check out the motor mounts.

There is one other member that i know of that has one but hes not active anymore and there is no way of reaching him. Trust me...i tried.

Not a full body kit that im aware of but Kamei did produce an air dam for the front http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/accessories/80-airdam.jpg

Ok didnt realize that it wasnt a solid piece of metal. I have the 12mmX1.25 die so in theory is the metal soft enough for me to just cut it off and cut new threads? Or will that leave an opening at the top of the shifter rod?

Here is the writeup that i did when i did this swap. I did it on an EA81 sedan but most if not all aspects should be the same for the EA82 http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69534 Hope that answers all questions.

i dont really need it to be a "short throw" but just shorten the shifter rod. Its extremely tall and it would feel more precise i believe if i shortened the rod. In other words im not interested in changing the pivot point, Im just interested in shortening the chrome shift rod. Not sure if its easier to cut new threads or to cut it down and weld it on shorter.

I have an EA81 5 speed sedan and i want a shorter shifter. What is the best way to do this. I was planning on cutting it down to a good lenth with a hack saw then cutting new 12mmX1.25 threads with a die. Is this possible or is the better method to cut it off down low, cut out a chunk of the shifter, then weld it together shorter?

yea paul i know about him. Good guy. But im up at Storrs and there is no one like him around.

It seems that this day in age its getting harder and harder to find someone to do trustworthy work on your car. It was not long ago that i brought my subaru into the shop for some very loud brake noise from the rear right drum. They did a brake inspection and said that everything was fine and that it probably just hit a metallic part of the pad. I thought to myself BS but oh well at least they looked at everything. Mind you this is the same shop that did the brake work on my friends Dodge Mirada a month later and he lost all brakes on the way back to Maine from Connecticut. When i got home i looked into the noise myself by consulting my HTKYSA manual. I realized that the drums probably needed adjustment after reading it and after backwoodsboy mentioning it as a possible cause. So i adjusted them. They were way off from what they should have been. Not only does my car stop on a dime but it doesnt make any brake noise anymore. Everyone check their rear drum adjusters on EA81s!! Next up is a shop that ive gone to for years and have had good luck with. I guess everyone is getting greedy these days. It used to be that this shop would let me do half the work and not charge me for borrowing one of their younger workers for an hour or so to do a tire mounting and balancing. I swapped tires onto my new Enkeis and had the kid balance them then i bolted them back on the car myself and they STILL charged me 75 dollars after i had left thinking i was all taken care of. They mailed the bill to our house. What gives? Next up is my GFs car. She brought it to be worked on and and had to have the rear springs replaced. Well now shes got a clunk in the rear that she didnt have before and I and a friend think its because they didnt seat the new springs properly. The only good shop ive found is a corvette specific place that rewired my camaro. They were a bit pricy but they took their time and did stuff that other shops would never do. Sorry i just had to vent. Im getting sick and tired of this. Are there now good mechanics left? Where did all the shadtree mechanics that would give you a good deal and not try to rip you off go? I do most of my work on my cars myself but when it comes time to have someone else do the work for me i dont have options. I have to do it myself or have someone half rump roast it. Mods if this is in the wrong forum i appoligize ahead of time. I intended for it to be subaru related but it got off topic so feel free to move it.

Agreed. Lots of body shops dont want to deal with rust at all. They are more interested in turning cars around quickly meaning mostly collision work. Find a shop that does restorations and they will most likely help you out since they should be familiar with all sorts of rust.

If that 79 isnt rotted out then yea id say thats a decent deal. Engine needs three things to run, fuel, spark, and air. Sounds to me like its not getting one of the first two.

:slobber::slobber: Speachless. That is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pictures?

Weekend of july 4th is out for me. Going up to Mass to visit some family. Other than that any sunday should work for me.

Not sure about how well the digidash will like the XT6 alt but i have been running an XT6 alt for the past year or so with great results in mine. I was having low charging issues due to a number of things...the main thing being old wiring. I rewired my accessory circuit to a relay and installed the XT6 alt. Now when i put my rear defrost on or turn signals my voltage doesnt go all over the place. Id wait for someone else to pipe in with thoughts about the digidash and the alt but for me it was a great upgrade and not all that hard to do. As for the weber you know ill be around if you need a hand some sunday bolting it on and getting it running correctly. Give me a ring.

That could be any number of things really. Accelerator pump is one of them for sure. Others would be fuel filters (both) and vacuum leaks. To check for vacuum leaks get a can of brake cleaner or carb cleaner and start spraying around the base of the carb, and the intake gaskets. Those are the most likely culprits. Good luck with it. As for the ECS light, you can check that fairly easily. Pull the plastic panel off from under the steering column. Its held on by three screws. That black box is your computer. On the front of it is a red light that will blink a code for you. It will blink a sequence for you that you can decode as a number. An example would be 2 long blinks followed by 4 quick blinks. That would be code 24. Then you look it up and chances are will find out its something stupid.

Yup 13 x 5.5 most likely. There were also 13 x 6 Enkeis but those are even rarer than "regular" enkeis.

Gotta love Enkeis as well. Very clean hatch. Love the color.

And John im not sure but since it was a DL hatch and it being a 1600 it might have had a 4 speed FWD not a 5 speed.

Well its been two days i might as well put these pictures up. Here are few of my favorites. EA81 (Body Style ) photo shoot Connies Coupe The rest can be seen on my photobucket page http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/Spring%20Carlisle%202008/?start=0

Car had 175,000 on it so there is a chance that it still worked. The interior didnt look completely shot or damp but it was hard to tell since it was pouring on me when i made the call. Sorry i that i didnt have time to pull it for you Connie .

Fixed it. Turned out that that long trip combined with NAPAs crappy fuse holder did it in. I took a test light and determined that power was getting to my positive terminal on the starter but not past the fuse. The fuse was good though so i took it out and tested both sides of the holder. Both sides were dead. Then i wiggled the wiring around a bit and got power to the battery side. So i went to autozone after work and bought a new, better fuse holder and rewired it. Problem solved. Starts fine once again.

LOL i heard that...and the wakeup call that happened right before it. AKA johns EJ22 straight piped brat revving. I was like.."ok ok im up." Ill post some pics of the show when i get a chance as well.

Did you replace the pilot bearing as well? The one that is in the center of the flywheel?

Hey everyone. As some of you might know i just drove 380 miles out toe Carlisle PA for the Import Nationals and then 380 miles back home. Well when i got home i turned the car off and helped my friend unpack his stuff. When i went to start it 5 minutes later it wouldnt start. No clicking, no cranking, nothing but silence. So i went inside and fiddled around on the computer for 10-20 minutes then went back out to try and start it again. It started on the first try like nothing had ever happened. Anyone got any ideas? Oh yea i have a pushbutton start too.