hatchsub

On my former coupe i had a muffler shop custom fab me a 2" exhaust from the heads all the way to the tail pipe. I may have gained a few hp in that but i really did it because i was tired of replacing rusted out exhaust every year. I went with a full Stainless exhaust and didnt look back. Magnaflow muffler out back too really gave the car a good tone. Ask Beechbm69 what he thinks of it since its his car now lol.

Input shaft seal could be leaking enough to cause your clutch to start to slip. Could also be the bolts holding your flywheel on. If you (or whoever did the clutch last) didnt give those a coat of Permatex #2 when they put them in they might be seeping engine oil. Only way to know would be to pull it apart and find out. Rear main of the engine could be leaking as well but that would really just drip to the ground unless its really leaking and that you would know about. You may just find when you get in there that your clutch is just toast and you need a new one. I had a 2wd 5 speed with almost 150k on it and it was bone dry at the input shaft seal area. They are pretty tough little transmissions.

It is something you can do yourself. My advise to you is to start fresh with everything however as brakes are one area that you dont want to screw around with. SInce your car is an 82 you have non-vented front disks. SInce you said your rotors are not in the best shape i would take this as an opportunity to upgrade to vented front disks which involves getting parts from a 84+ EA81 car. If you go into rockauto and type in that you have an 85 Brat it will get you the correct parts. You will need two loaded calipers which will be fully rebuilt. Your calipers will not be the same as the vented disk calipers. If memory serves i think they were something like 37 dollars a side the last time i did mine. Then you will need rotors. This is where it gets tricky and you have to do some digging to find a decent rotor. Ive had generic parts store rotors warp on me from just getting off the highway. For my former subaru i was able to hunt down a set of Brembo rotors on ebay new in the box from 20 or more years ago. That would be my suggestion but there are other manufactures of good rotors as well. Might also want to inspect your flex lines too. If they are original to the car id replace them for sure. As for the leak near the master...is it leaking down the brake booster? If so the seals on the inside of your Master have taken a dump and its time for a new one.

The other thing you may want to do in the chase for your high idle is to check your intake manifold gaskets right on the heads. With age those tend to degrade and you may have a fairly good vacuum leak there too. If thats the case then when the intake is out would be a great time to get ride of all that vacuum mess that goes under the intake as well as a weber swap .

I personally was only able to get the hitachi to run well once. Otherwise my suggestion is to not waste your time chasing problems and vacuum leaks. I put a weber on my old car and never looked back. In fact i wouldnt own another EA81 without one. It made it drive that much better.

Hmm ive pulled the trans from below and never had to fiddle with the axle nuts or ball joints. I just popped the pins from the stubs at the trans and dropped the trans far enough for me to side the axles off of it. Then out it came.

Ive seen the cars hes done and they started out fairly rusty and turned out great. If he says its rusty (for maine) its RUSTY. New England winters are HELL on these old subarus.

Not sure what the top starter is for to be honest but the second one is what you want. You know if you want to save some money you can rebuild your starter for about 2-3 bucks lol. It probably only needs new brushes. They are very easy to get to once the starter is out and on a table.

Yea you should be seeing 27-30. When was the last time a tuneup was performed?

For those that have not gotten one yet just wait a while. They released a very accurate IROC camaro last year in red and black and it took me FOREVER to find one in stores but i eventually did (got both). I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you dont get one for another 3-5 weeks in places. And just so people are wondering..no i haven't found one either. Just saw this now so i have something new to look for in the toy isle. Also have one more reason for my gf to be embarrassed of me

Nah unfortunately the Y for the dual carb engine was different. The normal y-pipe "should" bolt right up however but you will be leaving a bit of power on the table. If you can spring for it and find a good exhaust shop, you can get a nice Stainless y pipe bent up for your car. I had one made for my former coupe along with a full Stainless exhaust.

Put the stands on the unibody frame rail farther in. I never bothered jacking on the pinch welds because they are so delicate on these cars.

Hard shifting when cold is normal with these old gearboxes. Hell my '03 focus svt is stiff shifting when cold too. When i had my coupe i would double clutch it in 2nd and 3rd when it was cold to avoid a grind from syncros not catching up quick enough.

Yes you dont want it to be too tight. The proper way of adjusting the clutch is to disconnect the spring (or hillholder if so equipped). Then adjust the clutch cable so there is just a ever so slight air gap between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers. In other words adjust it so its just about to touch the pressure plate fingers but doesnt when the return spring or hillholder is hooked up. Just wiggle the clutch fork back and forth to test as you adjust it. Also make sure that when you routed the clutch cable you routed it BELOW the heater core lines.

Im pretty sure those were just the rally versions that got that setup.

I JUST caught this thread. Figures im out of the subaru world not even a year and you find what i was looking for all along for the coupe . At any rate if you are to build it, you wouldn't be realizing its full potential with just the single weber on a ea82 intake. When i was looking and planning i decided that i would either make or have someone make me a custom intake that would mount dual carbs directly over the heads like some of the old VW crowd does. They would most likely be single barrel Webers of a bigger size than the secondary of the 32/36. That was what i figured would be the most fun with that car. Oh another note give me a ring sometime. I havent heard from you or jess in ages.

Ug what i would do to have that car. So jealous! Nice score. I wish we got the RX over here in EA81 twin carb form instead of just the EA82t variety.

You? Prefer Enkei's? Naw never would have guessed that :-p

They are. I dont even own a subaru anymore and id almost like another set for the subaru that comes along down the line. They are my all time fav old school subaru wheel and looked killer on a gold car too!

Yea go to rockauto and look at prices. Id gladly spend more to have to do the job once rather than pull used bearings out of a junkyard...then put them on your car only to find that they are shot too. Or have to do the job twice. Wheel bearings and brakes and front steering parts are three areas i dont mess with used on.

What ^ said. Bearings are not all that expensive and super easy to change on the rear. Just buy new.

If your going the power washing route be careful around the distributor and the carb. I would put plastic bags over both actually and do everything else.

This picture makes me drool.

Sweet glad you got it solved. Any chance you could post a picture of the screw that you adjusted. Dan if you see this...this is probably the same issue that the coupe has when it gets really cold.

Your idle and primary jets look good. I had the exact same issues with my weber and never did get to the bottom of it. Hot starts were hard and very very cold starts would do the same thing you just said. I just learned to live with it unfortunately. I learned to pump the gas 5-7 times when it was really cold (under freezing). If i did that it would usually start up and stay running on its own until it warmed up a bit. My hot start issue was due to fuel continuing to drip past when i shut the car off. You might want to check into that. It was never a big enough issue for me to try to fix it.