hatchsub

I read in another post that an EA82 sway bar will fit an EA81. Is this a direct bolt in? Also will I be able to pull a rear sway bar off of any EA82 or does it have to be a sedan? The reason i ask is the local JY has a early 90s loyale 4w4 wagon in there and i wonder if its got a rear sway bar that would help out my cars handling.

That bike looks almost identical to mine. That one is a bit earlier i would say judging by the stem and the crankset. Otherwise its the same. I believe that is the "Professional Model" like what i have. That was the top of the line Bottecchia.

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0808.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0809.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0816.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0817.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0818.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0819.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0822.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0823.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0825.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh46/hatchsub/IMG_0826.jpg

hahaha sorry guys. Here ya go. EDIT: Crap not sure at all how to upload photos from photobucket. I have the pictures just not the knowledge.

Hey everyone. Just thought i would share my recent find. I bought it for 150 bucks which granted is alot to pay for an old bike but this one was pretty nice and all there. I have it torn apart down to the frame right now but if people are interested ill post some pics. Its a Columbus tubed frame with Campagnolo record everything except brakes which are universal sidepulls that were added at somepoint later in the bikes life. Whats even better is the owner i bought it from gave me the original bike brochure that showed how much it was new as well as all the components. It was the top of the line in 1973.

No difference in the way the car performs. Just doesnt gum up the carb if your reed valves are shot like mine were. And yea Skip i dont need to pass emissions and a lot of my emissions junk wasnt working well so its all been ditched in favor of good old none smog carb.

The reason i eliminated it was it was backfeeding into the carb and gumming everything up. Its really more trouble than its worth and to be honest i do think if everything else on your car is up to snuff and working well that you can pass emissions without the air junk.

A bit off topic but did you have to tap new threads for that T-handle? Ive been pondering the idea of doing that to my suby as well.

Its quit possible that someone changed out the dash and forgot to change the vin as well. As said previously try to find another vin. My old camaro had had the armrest replaced and thats where all the vin and RPO codes are and my autobody guy was confused since it was saying the car was silver and a 6 cylinder. I checked the vin on the dash and it didnt match. Hope some of this helps.

A quick search of the internet netted this http://www.turboford.net/faq/tim_belt.shtml and this http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl891lib.htm

Um im going to go out on a limb here and and say the US didnt get an EA81 touring wagon did they? Was that a european/JDM thing? BTW gorgeous wagon. Love what u did with it.

Pretty much. New England sucks. I mean dont get me wrong i love it here i just wish they didnt use salt on the roads. My sedan with only 72,000 miles wouldnt be so damn rusty right now if they treated there roads like they do in Colorado and the PNW.

Did i hear right from someone on here that a rear sway bar from a EA82 car is a direct bolt on for EA81 cars? If so i could use one.

HAHAHAHA whats bad is the rust on that brat wasnt as bad as the station wagon next to it. I could flex the entire side of the car if i pushed down on the door when it was open....now THATS rusty!!!!!!

EA81T was a multiport model not a SPFI. If i had to guess for you id say you would gain a few horses over stock but nothing more than if you threw a weber on it. The main advantage of FI is no cold running problems like a carb. I love my weber dont get me wrong but FI is so much better. Gas milage will be about the same as a weber but maybe a bit better by like a mpg or so.

Nope fairly straightforward. Not to mention all the bolts are very accessable. Just drop your exhaust, unbolt the sway bar, unbolt the starter, unbolt the tranny from the engine, put a jack under the car and unbolt the tranny crossmember, then lower it down and punch out the cotter pins for the half shafts. Then resurface your flywheel, install new clutch...put together in reverse order.

Anyone know where i could nab a chrome bezel? It looks awesome..kinda remenicent of 70s Trans Ams...if u squint really REALLY hard.

DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER. It is way too strong for the delicate components of the MAF. They make specific sprays for cleaning out the MAF. There is also a spray that is electrical component spray that i use since i couldnt find MAF cleaner. It cleans electrical components and does not damage them. If you use carb cleaner on it you might be writting a check for a new MAF.

Yea i forgot to mention that i do have fuse inline with the battery terminal.

I dont really consider a Push button a hack job. I would consider it a simple way of solving a problem. There is not much to go wrong with a push button. Granted a Relay would return it closer to stock but either way you are still adding wires so I dont really see the difference. And the way i did it is clean. I dont appreciate you putting me down but to your benifit i dont like electronics or wiring for that matter but I do kno how to wire if need be. Many cars have had push buttons through history. Checker's come to mind. I dont have any problem with you disagreeing with me. My problems start when you put me down for doing something different than you.

Its not hard at all to wire in a push button if your ignition is the culprit. If you would like to go that route all you have to do is send a wire from the positive battery post on the starter to the push button and from the spade connector on the starter to the push button. When you push the button all your doing is connecting those two points and your car will start as long as the key is in the ignition and turned to the start position.

The EA81T does not have as much horsepower as what u have now. It has 95hp. Not to say thats anything to sneeze at but if your looking for more power i wouldnt go that route. Though i would PM theYeti and tell him that u found that car. Im sure he wants some parts off of it since he just bought mikes turbo wagon.

:banana: What do i win?

hmm idk what the price difference would be but to have my flywheel resurfaced was 80 bucks and the entire clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, throwoutbearing, pilot bearing) were 140 bucks. I ended up spending 220 on all that for an EA81.

Yea seriously you dont want to go through the trouble of doing a clutch swap only to have that used clutch start slipping on you a few thousand miles down the road. Just buy a new clutch kit. I dont think you'll spend more than 300 bucks. For my EA81 the clutch kit was 140 bucks from subaru. Not sure about your wagon.