hatchsub

Well im pretty sure thats a Turbo 350/400 tranny so im guessing sb chevy 350?

Couple of things that bother me about it is that it has a separate truck bed meaning it has some sort of actual frame under there. The elcamino was one solid body with no separate truck bed. Also 4 doors and a bed looks weird on anything that isnt a fullsize truck. GM should rethink this one.

Yes you can. You can pull the head on an EA81 without pulling then engine so i would assume you even have more room on an EA63. Just drain your coolant, pull the intake being VERY careful not to break the bolts off in the head. Unbolt the exhaust and then pull the head. If your going to go that far though do both sides.

Its an interesting Idea for sure and if the wagon has SPFI you dont have to do as much hard work to get an SPFI EA81. The only problem is that you will be taking a good size step down in power and the EA82 styled wagon is heavier than anything that the EA81 was put in so you will have one slow wagon...albeit reliable but slow. If you do decide to go through with this make sure u get a hydro EA81. You dont have to adjust lifters every 15-20k miles. Just food for thought.

How many miles? Im assuming it wasnt from maine otherwise it would be a rot box. That thing is sweet. Good luck with it.

Wow nice. Looks really clean. 4x4? Miles? Im guessing low by the general condition.

Chances are if you did the JB weld right and let it sit for 24 hours or how ever long they say to let it sit for you are fine. I would check what the people above mentioned before you worry about your JB weld. I JB welded mine at the beginning of the summer and havent had a problem with it yet...knock on wood.

Yea unfortunatly mine has a limited lifespan now that the rust is setting in i do believe. Jon is going to help thank God and hopefully ill get a good amount more years out of the body. But then again its my fault for using it in everything...and everyday. Again cant wait to see it Connie.

Yea with it hooked to your manifold vacuum your timing was way advanced even at idle so i would imagine your car would idle like crap up until the point in the rpm range where it would be pulled open normally. Now that you have it hooked to the carb i would go back and check your base timing to make sure its set right. EA81s are supposed to be set at 8 degrees. Not sure what a 74 suby would be.

Um i dont own a 74 but i kno for sure that you want it run off the carb. If you were to hook it to manifold vacuum then the advance would be advancing at idle. When hooked to the carb when u step your foot on the gas it pulls the advance open with the amount of throttle you apply.

Connie if they dont have the taillights covered i have the old set off of my sedan i could sell ya a bit cheaper than the GL-10 set u sold me. One of the side pieces is a bit faded but they are uncracked. On a side note...awesome find. I cant wait to see it in person. Same wheels as i have on my sedan. Nicer color. Less rust. Im jealous.

Dont forget to drain the synthetic blinker fluid. Cant forget that

Which car body is in better shape. If the one with the blown motor has a better body or a body in similar condition why not just swap the good motor into the highly optioned car and cut your work down by a ton. You wouldnt even have to do any rewiring for SPFI if you go that route. But since you havent mentioned it im assuming the bare bones car is fairly nice and the SPFI blown car is shot.

Nice lift job!! And about the tracker...thats what my subaru is going to look like if i dont get my rump roast in gear to fix the rust around the rear wheels.

Your ignition might also be on its way out. I thought my starter problems were starter related but it turns out my ignition was shot. That last turn of the key just wouldnt give enough juice to the starter anymore. We both have the same age cars so it is quit possible this is your problem. I took the easy way out and bypassed the ignition with a push button. To start the car you still need a key but you turn the key to the run position then push a button. Hasnt given me a problem since. One other thought is how old are your positive and negative battery cables? You might not be getting enough juice through them either.

Yea those old /6 are good for 300,000 miles and then some. Awesome motor in an awesome body. Good luck with it.

wow nice demon. :slobber: . 340?

Eh i decided against it. I have enough on my plate with just my subaru rust issues this winter.

Have it appraised. Thats the only way to get the insurance company to pay what its really worth to you if the unthinkable happens. Otherwise they will total it at KBB. Ask me how i kno.

As GD said that sounds like a carb problem. But another thing to look into is the vacuum advance on the distributor. That could cause a stumble like that too. Mine was busted for awhile and caused a similar stumble.

Clogged fuel filters could cause a big part of that. Also, now that its cold out, our old carbed subarus will not run as nice as when it was warm out. Mine used to be getting 26-27mpg on the backroads. Im lucky if i get 23 now and the only thing that has changed is the weather. Cant say i have the same no power problem that u do but i do notice its a bit less willing to move as well.

In that case POR15 is your friend..or whatever they are calling it now.

Aluminum engine = no rust. I wouldnt worry about spray to be honest.

Yea it should be heating up quicker than that. My 83 gets up to temp in 5 minutes or less even when its freezing outside. I would check into the thermostat and make sure its operating the way it should.

Sounds like the choke isnt adjusted right. EDIT: I would look into the metal spring in the choke housing on the front of the carb. This is an electric choke i presume? The spring has a tendency to break and this could easily be causeing your problems.