hatchsub

Chances are your wires were on their way out anyways. If you can see arcing then your wires are shot. You might as well do a full tune-up (ie. plugs, wires, rotor, cap). Arcing of the wires would cause a miss.

I was out shooting photos of old cars for an art project and remembered where two chargers were sitting in someones yard. One is a '66 with a non- original 400 and a 727 auto. The other is an original 383 car with 727 but its very rotted. My buddy and I are thinking of getting them over winter break and using the rotted one to make one good one. The '66 needs new floors and some carb and distributor work..as well as other work to a car that has been sitting dormant for 2 years. Ive done the math and figure if i could do all the work over winter break i would be left with about a 5 thousand dollar car as well as a parts car worth a few hundred. At that point i could either sell the chargers...or keep the good one an sell the rotted one and my IROC camaro. What do you guys think about this plan. I figured 2 grand was a pretty good price for such cars. Though i will be trying to talk him down to 1500.

I think thats the connection to the exhaust port on the same pipe. Up near the valve its def a quarter..cause thats how i have my car put together.

not to mention they shift like poo. Mine had 52,000 miles on it and would shift "ok" when warm and barely shift at all when cold. I hate the 3AT with a passion.

I wouldnt do it for long periods of time. My car had that problem and it royally gunked up the carb that i had on it at the time. 200 miles should be fine but after that get it taken care of. The carb is not meant to ingest hot exhaust gas.

Yup it will work.

am i the only one that the pics arnt loading for?

Does your distributor have a vacuum advance? If so check to see if it still works. Without that it could cause a stumble. I drove around without vacuum advance for awhile so thats how i kno.

No the PCV valve is on the back of the intake manifold. It will be angled towards the left side of the car and have a rubber hose coming off of it. If i remember correctly you will need a 17mm wrench to get it off (at least that was the size needed for my EA81 i believe).

Well i think ive come up with a solution. Im going to invest in a mig welder and start teaching myself how to do bodywork. Not sure why i didnt try this before.

Yea i just got off the phone with Charlie this morning and he said its still around. I may just end up with another beater suby so that i can keep the winter junk off of mine. And when it finally does rust out its got a hydro EA81 so out comes that engine and someone on the board here may benfit . Again this is just a thought as i havent made up my mind as to whether or not i want to take on another subaru. As for getting pics of the rusted areas ill shoot some when i get back to campus seeing as how i left my digital camera there.

I did find another body shop to do the repairs. They are a bit steep but not out of line for restoration work. Not sure yet if this is the path im going to take seeing as how im a college student trying to keep money in his pocket. I have another idea to keep the rust at bay. I have a line on a 83-84 coupe that has some fairly serious rust. Its got 52,000 miles on it and is road worthy already supposedly. Im not sure its still there seeing as how its in Charlies yard and i forget when everything in there was getting sent to the crusher. My thought if its still around is to take my sedan off the road during the winter and drive the coupe seeing as how its got more rust than is worth fixing.

Ive had the an AT sway bar and a Manual Sway bar side by side. There is no difference between the two.

yea my front frame rails are rot and rust free as far as i kno. Its just the rockers and wheel wells that need attention.

Its all around the wheel wells mainly in front of the rear wheels. Yea i dont think its terminal yet either Jon i agree i think hes just sick of doing work on it. Im not interested in retiring it since its my baby and has been pretty damn good to me and still gets mucho attention when im driving. And thank you very much for the offer to do the welding. I may just have to take you up on it. Welding party at my place one weekend in the spring?

Hey everyone. I just got some bad news from my body shop. Every few years i take my 83 in to get some rust fixed. Well this year i got the news i didnt want to hear. The rust was too bad to fix and that it wouldnt be worth it anymore. Im not sure where this leaves me. I dont have access to a welder or the skills nessisary to do the panel replacement myself. I want to continue to drive it and enjoy it as the engine and body only have 70,000 miles on them. Problem is is that its a new england car and i DO drive it everyday..meaning rain, snow everything. Its mostly my fault that its in this state but im just not sure what i should do at this point. Should i continue to drive it and enjoy it during its final hours and in the mean time look for a rust free EA81 sedan body to drop my engine and tranny into? Or should i see about finding someone else willing to do the rust work? Or are there any board members that would be interested in helping out with cutting and welding?

Full gauge sweep? Im lost. What is that?

SWEET!!!!! Way to go Connie. Do i get a ride in this one as well at your next BBQ?

Hahahaha. Nice. Well if anyone is interested there is a rust free Loyale in a local jy right now. White wagon with blue interior. No front fenders, lights, or grill. Bad engine is the reason it sits. 5 speed single range too. What a shame.

yes u can. Subaru drilled holes in the crossmember for "easy" oil pan removal. Its still a bitach to do that way though. If your going to reseal it i think it would be easier to just pull the engine.

Have you checked around the engine with a can of carb cleaner. Just spray around where it could be leaking (base of carb, intake gaskets...etc) and if the idle pics up you found your leak.

are u serious?!?!?! If you want i can call my dealership sometime this week and see about prices from them..and see if they can ship it directly to you. I kno for a fact that my 2wd subaru clutch kit only cost 140. I cant imagine a 4wd one costing much more if any more.

When i was searching for clutches i ended up with a dealer clutch kit cause it was only 20 dollars more than the ebay kit i was debating. And the Ebay kit would have cost shipping bringing it right up the price of the dealer clutch kit. A clutch kit..no matter where you get it from is going to cost u between 100-140 bucks im pretty sure.

Manifold is simply a bolt on procedure. Make sure the matting surfaces are clean and flat. Do NOT use any sealant and only use dealer intake gaskets. Get a torque wrench and tighten the intake bolts down to 12ftlbs. As for the hitachi's..just pick which feels better..ie less throttle shaft play. There is also a difference between an EA82 hitachi and an EA81 hitachi so make sure you use the EA81 hitachi. And i second what GD said about the carter-weber. What a hunk of junk. I had one on my sedan originally. Never did run right and the car only had 52,000 miles on it when i bought it.

nitrous injector