hatchsub

Hey Jon if your interested in a almost rust free hatch u should call charlie down in colchester connecticut. I was just at his yard last week and he had a 78,000 mile 4x4 hatch. I think he said 800 bucks would take it. Its got some fairly good sized dents on the drivers door and rocker but nothing that cant be fixed. I was debating getting it for myself. But i have no room and dont want to spend money..even though that sounded like a steal for a southern car.

Yea Like tom said there is another fuel filter in front of the PS rear wheel. thats the one that is probably causing most of your problems. Chances are your going to have to pull it and bring it to a parts place because most dont have the # of that filter in their computers.

Yea my throttle cable was a bit too loose awhile ago so i tightened it. Thanks for the suggestion. Im running out of ideas. If i free rev the car it revs nice and smooth up until 3000 RPMs. Then i can feel an ever so slight..almost unnoticable stumble and then it continues to rev relatively smooth after that. Im almost thinking i might need to step my primary jet. Either that or wait until i get the new axle put in and see if that fixes it seeing as how i only seem to notice the problem when im going around corners these days. Another thing that it does that is almost more annoying than its stumble is if im in gear and i take my foot off the gas really quick..say if im in second, the car jerks back and forth a few times. Ive never been in another manual car that did this. Is this due to a sloppy axle or my carb?

Oh im sure there are. Im just throwing that out there as one of the options. Im not sure of the size but they are 5.5 inches wide..stock on all 2wd EA81s.

To build off of this..if you do go this route i will GIVE you my old steelies from my sedan. They have all the center caps and are in fairly good shape for there age. Some rust but they are early 80s steelies. All you would have to pay is shipping.

ooooowww...well "one" of my axles is shot. I have a replacement i just havent gotten around to doing anything about it. Maybe thats causing it? I have quotes around it cause i think its only one of them. Maybe both.

Its a hessitation. But since the clutch is still engaged when the engine hesistates the entire car bucks back and forth a bit. As i said it did it bad when the carb and distributor were messed up and now it barely does it at all. the motor has barely 70,000 miles on it and the tranny has roughly 80,000 on it now and is very tight shifting so im not sure what you mean by slop.

Thank you!! News update. I checked the vacuum advance and it was busted so no advance at all. Threw in a spare distibutor and it runs a hell of a lot better now. There is still some bucking though. I think im going to try the spark plugs when get a chance. Since this has kinda gone off topic from its original title ive started a new thread about my situation.

Ok if you have been following along with my other posts you kno that my 83 GL has been having a bucking problem when i take my foot off the gas and put it back on. Well here are the things that i ended up fixing to get to the point i am at now. BTW my car has a weber carb. -bigger idle jet (55) -reset the floats to 35mm from the top...they were way off -retuned the carb after both of these were done -checked the vacuum advance unit on the distributor and found out i was not getting ANY vacuum advance...so i threw in a spare distributor (thanks moosens) that i had hanging around The car runs a million and one times better than it did before. For the most part the bucking is gone but sometimes it will still do it. Im not sure if it isnt just the nature of the carb at this point. It seems to want to buck more if im making a slow turn while still in gear, and i get back on the gas. If its in a straight line it doesnt seem to do it but then again it might be doing it and its just less noticable. So what do you all think? Should i just live with it the way it is? Or should i continue to fine tune it and work with it? I think another suggestion before was to change the plugs. I may do that just to see if it makes a difference.

When does California stop emissions testing of vehicles? In Connecticut if the car is 25 years old or older it doesnt need to get tested. Or does yours need to get tested just because you got it from another state and they want to do a one time only test?

HAHAHA i was there for that reaction. I thought for a second you were getting swarmed with yellow jackets . Then I realized you had found your prize of the day.

By diagram do you mean..what color wire goes to what speaker and stuff like that. If you are planning on installing a modern radio then forget about wiring it to the factory wires. Subaru used a common ground for all the speakers in the car so you will have to run new wires to all the speakers. Then just plug into the factory harness for your ground and power wire. Your going to have to wire over to the fuse box for a constant source of power to save your presets.

Going with what GD said im going to vote that you have a small vacuum leak. Timing being off is not going to cause hessitation like that. I have my timing advanced to around 9 or 10..not really sure what it is since i did it by ear. Im assuming that since you rebuilt your weber that your float is set correctly? Mine was way off when i pulled the top off.

Good luck.

What was wrong with the car before that you thought you needed a manual choke? Im just going to state the obvious. From what you said the only two things that you have touched are the distributor and the carburator causing the car not to run anymore. Your lifter clatter didnt start until you started to move the distributor. My reasoning is that your timing is probably way way off now that you moved the distributor one tooth. Put it back to where it was and see if it will start again. Do you have access to a timing gun? Your timing should be 8 degrees. But since you are using a weber you can advance the timing for more power. Im assuming you know that to advance the timing turn the distributor clockwise and to retard it counterclockwise. If you dont have a timing gun just advance the timing till the motor pings under load then back it off a bit till it doesnt. So for quick reference -Put the distributor back where it was and set the timing -Check the carburator..make sure you have it adjusted properly...if u need help with tuning it i can help out since ive been tuning and tuning on mine -Also when was the last time you gave your brat a tuneup?

What time is everyone planning on meeting up. If i dont hear back in the next few hours im going to give you a call Paul.

that boot could very well be affecting it. If there is a leak in it then the MAF will be thrown off causing all sorts of problems.

Nice. Glad you got that taken care of.

Dear god that poor little engine...hauling that big camper.

I think what they mean is dont mod the hell out of it and modernize it to make it something its not. It will lose what is special about it if you do that. Period mods are awesome though like the pictures of the car that are shown above. Take my EA81 for instance. I have thought about dropping a more modern engine in it but decided against it. It would lose that special something about it that makes an EA81 suby what it is. I dont think they are saying dont mod it. I think they are just saying dont try to make it something that it was never meant to be. Is that about right guys?

Chances are you are going to need the shorter filter anyways. Thats the 2 1/2 inch filter. I had that on and couldnt close my hood. Your probably going to need the 1 1/2 inch filter and clips.

Ok sounds good. Let me kno whats going on. Oh and one more thing..What year (aproximately) and what condition is the firebird in? Is it a Trans am?

Even the top of the line EA81 RX only made 110 horsepower with dual carbs, reversed valve heads, more aggressive cam, and free flowing exhaust. Your not going to be able to squeeze 100 horses out of that and you would be lucky to squeeze it out of an EA71 or EA81. Before trying to mod it for more power just try it out and see how it feels. My suby is not exactly stock (free flowing exhaust and weber carb) and it MOVES..well for what it is. Your car is lighter than mine by far. 65 horses or how ever many that puts out will feel like my 75 or so horses. Im sure once you get it going well that u will decide its strong enough as is. If it isnt strong enough..did they make a dual carb intake for that motor? If so..that would be sick to toss on and tune.

Is the 20th looking like the day Paul? I believe that was the date discussed in the other thread about this. Also any chance Charlies got some cool wheels? (factory alloys, enkei's)

OOOOwwww ok. Now i understand. Yea im not a fan of steel wheels either. My 83 had steel wheels and they looked terrible. So now i have period alloys.