hatchsub

Hey guys. On the way to the animal shelter yesterday i spied a 83 GL sedan like mine sitting in a shop parking lot. It didnt have a for sale sign on it but i had to look anyways. 77,000 miles, tan interior, sun roof (probably aftermarket), trunk luggage rack, power windows, power steering, cruise control. Its metalic red. Its an auto which can be looked at as both a blessing and a curse since its got the hydro lifters. As far as rust goes its no worse than my current suby and it has a great finish to it. What should i do. Im thinking of calling them up and finding out what the story is. If they let it go cheap im thinking a bit of work and either i keep it for myself and sell mine (pretty unlikely) or i sell it on this board for a hundred or two more than i paid to make a bit of a profit.

If it cranks over using a screwdriver between the contacts then just throw a pushbutton in there and be done with it. I was having problems with my EA81 and did a push button. Havent had problems since. Its cheap and easy. Turn the key...push a button.

That thing looks damn good for that many miles. Gotta love the old subarus and their ability to run up the miles that high.

If its an auto it has hydro lifters. If its a 4 speed it still has solid lifters.

Another thing to note is that there are two types of EA81s. There are the hydrolic lifter ones that do not require lifter adjustment and there are the solid lifter ones that require the lifters to be adjusted every 15,000 miles or so. The hydro lifter EA81s can be idetified by the "Do not adjust valve clearance" sticker on the valve cover.

Also while that engine is out you will want to replace the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, rear main and oil pump gasket. Chances are they are all leaking.

If its just one click chances are its the ignition. Wire a pushbutton in. So all u do is turn the key to the on position then push they button.

LMAO thats as bad as the Knight in Monty Python saying "Its just a flesh wound"

There was an aftermarket company (or more than one i dont remember) that converted coupes to convertibles for subaru.

Yea seriously..not that big of deal..helacoil..or tap it out for a bigger bolt.

well good luck with it. Is that the car that the carter-weber i sold you is going into? I love the convertibles as well as the 82/83 alloys you have on it. Those are the same wheels i have on my sedan. As far as windshield gaskets you might want to talk to paul (moosens). I kno it would be alot but he has an entire 82 coupe with very low miles that is borderline restorable. Its got alot of rot but is daily driverish right now. If you run out of options maybe buy pauls coupe if its availible and take what u need to keep your fleet going?

Hey was that one for sale on ebay awhile back? Or craigslist? I seem to remember it and im assuming there are not a tone of silver convertibles with 4 spoke LX alloys around.

Is the car outside or inside? If its inside then surround the car with mice killer/mice traps. Not exactly sure what to tell ya if its outside.

Um may be a dumb question but how do you rev match if your clutch doesnt work? Ive always wondered about this. I can rev-match and downshift super smooth but thats using the clutch. How in the world do you do it with no clutch. Just in the off case i need to know this info for the future.

There are two tranny mounts and two motor mounts. The tranny mounts are on either side of the transmission and are between the tranny and the crossmember. They are rubber and if they are bad will be dried out and ripped. The motor mounts are the same. They are on either side of the engine between the engine and the crossmember.

Something tells me rather than being speed related its RPM related. Rev the engine up to around 3000 or whatever RPM that you usually shift at and depress the clutch in neutral. If you hear the noise without the car moving and only with you pushing in the clutch you know that its the throw out bearing.

I thought you said that anything over 10 volts on the coil is bad. Its at aroud 13.40 or something. Almost battery voltage.

If it was just the pushing in the clutch part i would assume it would be the throw out bearing gone bad. That could make a horrendous noise if its shot. As for the driving along im not sure. If your clutch cable is too tight than maybe the throw out bearing is riding on the fingers and causeing that noise. Just a shot in the dark.

Ok i got 13.35ish checking the coil the right way. Did the dollar bill trick and no valve problems. The bill wanted to blow away there was such strong flow coming out the pipe.

Drilling and putting a bigger bolt in is sorta the temporary fix while helacoiling is the best route if done correctly. I have sorta the middle ground. Someone did a good job helicoiling new threads in the heads but when i went to take the exhaust down the stud just unthreaded out of the head. I ended up using bolts instead of studs and its been find (knock on wood) since last winter.

For the coil yes i was reading across the positive and negative of the coil. What was the correct way of reading it? The cars got new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, and a used distributor from subarujunkie off a 4wd hatch. I doubt for some reason a valve is sticking cause of the way the car runs and sounds. Its just when you let off the gas that it does this. It did it very slightly before and now its noticable since i have no cats. Whats the dollar bill trick?

ok just checked everything out. Heres what i found With the car off the battery had 12.57 volts With the car on the battery had 13.67 volts (so its not overcharging) With the car on the coil had somewhere in the neighborhood of .98-1.04 volts. Does this mean there is something wrong? I would think i would see bigger numbers than these off the coil. And to answer GDs question..yes they are both ND...the coil and the distributor. No mixing and matching here. Oh and another thing to throw into the mix. It backfires...kinda pop pop pop through the muffler if i leave it in gear and let off the gas. Im thinking this is ignition related as well..but i also have a straight pipe out to a high flow muffler. Im just wondering if all this (the distributor or the coil) has to do with my hessitation/bucking problem that i cant seem to get rid of.

I felt the coil after a drive with the engine getting up to temp. It was stone cold. Not even slightly warm. I still have to go check voltages. Im going to run out and do that now with the car running and tell you what i find.

Hmmm then i might want to do that soon cause the gauge is reading 15 i think. Ill check the battery and the coil. Thanks cougar

I have an XT6 Alt. Do you think its putting out too much voltage? I never really trust my voltage gauge to be right so maybe i should go put a battery tester on my coil at idle and see what its getting.