hatchsub

Dont anyone buy it. Its set up for a common ground..like what subaru used. The system subaru used was fine when receivers were putting out 5-8 watts but todays put out 20-30 watts rms and need individual grounds for each speaker. Its best to only use the ground and power wire in the original harness and run new wire to each speaker. I kno it sounds like a pain but you'll thank me in the long run when you stereo sounds good.

Is there an easy way to tell if im getting a shot of fuel? I looked down the carb and at idle and off idle i dont see much fuel coming through..if any but i kno there must be some. Once i get past the hessitation problem i see a good stream of it. Im pretty sure this is my problem. But i dont understand. This is a new carb. Not a rebuilt or anything but brand new.

Ive been living with this problem all summer now and its getting tiring. My weber seems to hessitate and start sputtering at around 2000 rpms but once im past that its fine. And coming off idle it doesnt have noticable hessitation. But since its at that rpm everytime im in gear and take my foot off the gas and put it back on the car bucks back and forth till i give it more gas then it gets past that hessitation and stops. Its very frustrating. I wish i hadnt spent the money on this stupid carburator. My question is what could be the problem? There was some fuel seepage from the base gasket so it got tightened down and i check every once in awhile after and its always dry now. Also i tried carb cleaner and it didnt make a difference in idle when i sprayed it on the base. I am also still using the EGR valve but i disconnected that and it didnt seem to make a difference in the problem either. The timing is set around 9 degrees and the ive played with the idle mixture a few times and it doesnt seem to get rid of this problem. I just started to notice a slight exhaust leak in front of my first cat. I have two cats back to back on the exhaust so there is another possible problem but i dont think so. Im beginning to wonder if this carburator is jetted properly. It came in the kit so it should have been jetted right.

This is along the same lines as what we were talking about. I went to a party this weekend and one of the guys there was wearing a T-shirt that said on the front: THE MULLET "its more than a haircut" And then on the back: "Its a lifestyle" And get this the picture on the back was a RV and an IROC-Z..LOL. I think i need to find me one of those T-shirts.

Im pretty sure thats just a z28 with IROC badges. Its got a z28 steering wheel and z28 15 inch wheels. Me thinks just someone trying to get more than its worth. And as for the mullet..sorry no mullet for me connie. And no i dont blame my mom. She was so upset that day she couldnt even tell me what happened on the phone cause she didnt want it to ruin the rest of my day. She knew what it meant to me. I had told her to be careful cause they get squirely in the rain but i guess it didnt sink in just how much. I figured "drive like there is snow on the ground when its wet" was good enough.

Yea i kno just a 305 but man does this 305 run hard. I bought it from a friend of mine that works on these cars alot and he stated with the mods it has it will outrun a 350 TPI no problem. Yes its a posi rear but im not sure of the gear ratio just yet. Someone swapped rears so the speedo is off as well. Options..well its pretty much loaded with pw, ps, pb, power mirrors, power drivers seat. Only options that it doesnt have are leather, power antenna, and T-tops. All i kno is it will do a pretty mean burnout in first, and then chirp second and third .

Does anyone have a picture of this? My car started life as an auto so do i have the other end that the spring attaches to on the bellhousing already?

Did i mess up? I just read another post and it sounds like there is supposed to be a clutch cable return spring so that the TO bearing is not riding on the clutch fingers all the time. Well the way mine is set up right now i have the TO bearing riding on the clutch fingers all the time cause i thought that was how it was designed to be. I didnt see any spring that was supposed to return the clutch fork to position other than the clutch fingers.

Hey everyone. Anyone and everyone who attended Connie's (Bucky92) BBQ at the beginning of the summer heard that my mother wrecked my 86 IROC that id had since senior year of highschool. I was devastated as i had invested alot of blood, sweat and tears into that car. Well enough of the history i finally found a replacement. That guy that i tried calling at the BBQ ended up being a complete rump roast and never returned any of my phone calls so i guess he never really wanted to sell. I ended up buying this one from a friend when i went to his house to get parts for another car of mine that i was going to fix up and sell. Here are the pics i will get more later but for now it gives you all a good idea of what i got. Its a fun car with all the mods it has. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2710300

thanks 86bratman. I havent been on here much recently so i let this thread fall to the bottom. Yes mine is a 2wd sedan. It started life as an automatic only to be swaped to 5 speed by me

Are you sure that thats all that fusable link does. Because when it is blown my car will crank but the tach wont move and it wont start...kinda like the coil is dead.

Yea u have the same links that i used to have. I replaced them all with fuses now and i didnt know what subarus color coding meant. I just threw in some fuses that i had hanging around to see what happened. And thanks for the tip. I will check the wire coming off the alt again and make sure its not rubbed thin somewhere.

yea everything seems fine now. The alternator is an XT6 alt so its a strong one. Ill just cross my fingers and see how it goes. Im running two 30 amp fuses and one 40 amp. Do you think i should go higher Ed?

Maybe i should also add that it blew after i shut it off from its 20 minutes of running to jump start my other car.

It was funny it blew after i turned my car off i guess. It was fine when i was driving it..i turned it off and went back to it an hour later and it was blown.

my center fusable link blew out for the first time. I had replaced the fusable links with fuses so i could see when they blow. I had a 30 amp in there and now i put a 40 in there. What could be causing this? Thanks.

Is that a crack in the windshield? Nice find. I would def have paid 75 bucks for it. And leave the EA81 be. It doesnt blow headgaskets as easily and if taken care of will run for well over 200,000 just like a EA82.

I would be willing to bet you need a new crossmember as well. The auto is a much heavier tranny then the manual and needed to be braced near the back instead of the towards the center like on the manual.

I dont mean to sound mean but why waste time and effort on the 3AT. They were really not all that good of an auto tranny. They killed gas milage and mine never shifted right..even with only 52,000 on it when i got it. I went from 25 mpg to 33 doing a 5 speed swap. If i were you and was contemplating rebuilding it i would just swap in a 5 speed. Its really not that much more work to do a 5 speed swap then to take the auto out and put it back in again after its been rebuilt. But then again this is your car and if you like the auto then by all means. I wouldnt waste time rebuilding it though..im sure there is a board member who will GIVE you a 3AT for free. I gave mine away to a school.

UGG i wish i didnt have to leave that so early. Stupid job

Well an update on the situation..i did not have the mixture set right. I was running lean right off of idle..which is what the mixture screws are for and this caused it to buck. I turned the mixture screw out a hair and the bucking practically went away..i think another 1/8 of a turn or less will do the trick..just hope my gas milage wont suffer too much. I was getting 33mpg coming home from Carlisle with my ex.

The easy way to verify is to crawl under and compare them both but if i recall correctly the 4 speed shift linkage is completely different from the 5 speed fwd. Also the reason you might have slop in the shifter is a pin that gets worn down and wobbly. There is a how to in the USRM on how to install a bolt in its place to get rid of the slop.

Hey Connie i know its a bit of a hike for you but Premier subaru in Branford CT is a good place to go to get parts for old subarus. The part manager is Warren..a really great guy who loves the older subarus. Ive done my fair share of business over there and he knows me by name. He even had some NOS alloy rims though not complete sets . If they were complete i would have bought them.

holy crap lol..a V8 subaru..now thats an interesting option

Hey thanks...after posting i read in more detail HTKYSA and it told step by step which one/ones to mark. I marked them and all is well. Timing is set at 8 degrees