hatchsub

It all depends on how the car is driven. If someone drove it hard then it would not last as long as someone who drove it well. Ive heard of stock clutches lasting as long as 200,000 on volvos (my uncles) and ive also heard of clutches going out every 20,000 or so miles from a bad driver. I believe if you treat a clutch well it should be good for 100,000 miles.

Yea def need pics. too bad its not the whole set or id tell you to grab them and sell them to me lol

haha nice. Just last week leaving school i saw someone stuck in his parking spot on ice in his 2500 cummins diesel Dodge Ram and i lent a hand with my little 2wd EA81. Dropped the clutch and pulled him right out. Um how much life you think i lost off of my clutch? It burnt a bit.

shoot i knew it was one or the other. Thanks mike. Its been awhile since i decoded an ECU.

HOLY $*IT!!!! Thats a lot of snow. A few weeks ago i went drifting with my suby in an open parking lot..i should have taken a video or something..fun fun.

Well not sure about the distributor advance but climb under the steering wheel and pull that plastic panel off. It will be held on by three screws. Once its off you'll see a black box directly below the steering column. This is your computer. Start the car and drive it till the ECS light comes on again. Then read the codes. If i remember correctly its a series of short flashes followed by long flashes. So for example two short flashes followed by four long flashes would be the signal for code 24. Read the code and post it up and I or someone else will tell you what it means. Most of the time its going to be the coolant temp sensor.

Yes the engines will swap without a problem. 109cid is an EA81. As was said earlier if its a one barrel you'll have to swap intakes to the two barrel because..well its better..and you get to use that weber.

here is a link to one on ebay. Real good deal for a new radiator. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Radiator-80-87-Subaru-Brat-GL-DL-GLF-STD-1-6-1-8_W0QQitemZ180088749961QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33602QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Could it also be his axle(s)?

auto or manual...it matters for speedo cable lenth. Manuals are about a foot longer than autos.

Yea ive never had a problem with castrol GTX either. I always thought it was just normal oil..no better no worse than other similar brands.

i might as well add to the list..alternator..been there...same symptoms.

Yeah if my tranny is cold i double clutch going into second and sometimes third. Once its warm i dont bother cause it does slow me down. It is mainly a big rig thing. They do not have syncros so it is nessisary for them to know how to double clutch.

I went onto their site and they had two different types of manual tranny fluid. One was rated at 5w30 . Did i read that wrong and is that engine oil instead? heres the link https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=297 That seems awfully thin to me. But then again i would be willing to bet my slight grinding when cold would go away.

i think he got confused cause you mentioned the AT flush. No they didnt make a 5 speed auto..just 3 and 4 speed autos.

Yea there are two..one by the right rear tire and one in the engine compartent by the drivers strut tower. Replace them both..they're cheap and you eliminate a possible problem even if it doesnt solve yours.

yea id recomend the straight ATF for 1000 miles or so...or however long it takes till the tranny feels loosened up. Then drain it and put in some 75w90 gear oil and it should feel a lot better. Good luck.

No i think it would look just fine. Black and grey go well together.

Well yesterday i ran out to my car to check on the positive cable. To me it looks like its the original cable to the car. I think im going to replace the cable first and see how everything goes after that. If i still have the problem im going to wire in a relay or a relay and push button (just cause push button starters are cool )

you can delete the ASV system all together. All it is there for is to circulate air from the aircleaner to the exhaust. There are a two ways that i know if eliminating it. First is to unbolt the pipe going into the ASV valve and stuff a quarter in the valve and tighten the pipe back on. Second is disconnect the pipe down at the manifold and saw the pipe off so that all your left with is a tube with threads. Stuff a couple of nickels in it and pound them in with a punch and then tighten your new plugs back into the manifold. That ASV system is entirely unnessisary in my opinion. Mine was messed up in such a way that it was recirculating exhaust gas into my carb gumming it up. Thats why i chose to get rid of it. Oh one other thing..you will need to plug up the pipe coming off of the cat. Do this however you see fit. I just got some high temp hose and put a metal plug in it and secured it down. Good luck in whatever you decide.

NICE Connie!!! Cant wait to see him at Carlisle!

Im going to register mine soon as i get my tax refund check in the mail. So it should be soon.

eh the shows a long way off..you might change your mind about it by then. And besides i havent met bucky yet

If you do decide to change your tranny fluid or do a flush..when your finished i would advise against redline unless its 75w90NS. This is the grade that doesnt have a friction modifier for posi rear ends. But all in all redline is expensive stuff and if i were you i would just put in some valvoline 75w90 nonsynthetic and be done with it. My car shifts pretty good now with that in it.

Yea i second that. If there was enough junk in your tank to gum up your sending unit and you used seafoam now that junk is in your filters. Change em out at somepoint soon.