hatchsub

Yeah chances are your exhaust has been on and off too many times and the threads for the studs got stipped. I had the same problem happen to me. I just taped some new threads and put a bolt in to quiet it down for a bit but then the gasket blew completly and i ended up getting it fixed the right way (aka helicoiled). Good luck with it.

Im 6'2" and have had two EA81's (the sedan that i have now and a hatch). I have fairly long legs and have never had a comfort problem with these cars. I do have the seat all the way back but am comfortable with it set there.

ok thanks Numbchux. From the sound of that clip its not super loud..it just has a nice low rumble. I dont mind it being a bit louder than stock..i mean i have a IROC camaro with a 3 inch flowmaster exhaust and that thing is loud..but i love it. I just dont want it to sound like a damn ricer. is the one in the picture that i started this thread with similar to the one that you have? What one should fit nicely on my car? Im going to need to get a shop to bend a piece of exhaust for me because the muffler(including the piece of pipe that bends up to it) is really hurting. I have a low rumble right now because of the ping pong sized rust hole in the exhaust. What diameter tub should i look at. the stock exhaust on these things isnt 2 inches is it? Thanks for any info.

Hey anyone put a thrush muffler like this one on a suby? Im thinking about one for my EA81 sedan. Im not looking to make it super loud...just an nice low tone and reduced backpressure a little. It will still be running stock exhaust otherwise. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-Thrush-Glass-Pack-Muffler-1of-3-Wood-pecker-Rat-Rod_W0QQitemZ4614101828QQcategoryZ34203QQssPageNameZWD6VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hmm i knew that the EA81 cars didnt have a constant 12V for presets because of the design of the radio but i thought for sure that your EA82 would have. All radios have ACC wires or else they would not work when you turn on the car. Only the radios that have clocks and electrical presets (as in the ones that you have to hold the button until the radio tells you its set as opposed to the ones where you pull the button out and push it back in) have 12v constants. All i can say is get out the tester and start finding the hot wires. good luck!

Wow that last one reminds me alot of the beach from "the Goonies". Anyone remember that old film?

S+R in branford CT could help you out. They have a complete EA81 for your car. Not sure what they want for it though. If i were you i would go jy motor as well and stick with what came in your car originally. They may be gutless but they run forever if you keep up on mantenence. Good luck and nice find. I love EA81 subys.

Hey everyone. This is a bit of an unusual post for me. I dont have any problems with my car at this point. I mean sure i dont have a tranny kickdown cause of my carb and intake swap and my ECS light comes on because i didnt put a duty solenoid back on but man does this thing run like a top. In another 800 miles it will hit the big 60,000 mile mark. For those that dont know about my car its an 83 subaru gl sedan with no rust at this point and power windows, steering and airconditioning (doesnt work at this point). Its my baby and just got another compliment to the surprise of one of my female friends. She thought i was kidding when i said that the subaru got more attention than my IROC camaro. Guy at the gas station walked up to the passenger window and scared the crap out of her and then asked me what year it was and told me how sweet it was. I love this car:) EDIT: Forgot to mention my plan for this summer. 5 speed swap cause i hate this autocraptic. New muffler..probably a thrush muffler for a bit better flow and sound. Also i may consider webering it if i have enough funds and want a bit more power. Thats it for now.

All the local shops and the subaru dealership have told me not to use any sealant on the gaskets. Just make sure that the intake and the heads are very clean and flat with no gouges. I just recently swapped intakes on my EA81 so i know what is involved. I got lucky on the passenger side as most of the gasket stuck to the intake that i wasnt going to use anymore but the entire gasket decided to stick to the drivers side head. so i got a scrapper and went to work. You want to be careful here not to gouge the metal seeing as how it its aluminium. I used plenty of gasket remover spray from NAPA and the scrapper to get as much of the gasket off as possible then i ended up using sandpaper and a block to get the rest of the gasket off. Basically you want to see nothing but shinny metal when your finished. Also i found with sanding...it went a lot quicker spraying some gasket remover on the sandpaper and sanding the heads that way. Just make sure that you end with a smooth surface. Dont use an abrassive grit of sandpaper. I used something like 400 or 500 then skipped to 1000 or more wetsanding paper to get my heads nice and clean for the new gaskets. Also u should throw a paper towel in the intake hole of the head so that you dont get crap down in the engine while your sanding. Once your all done with that just put the new gaskets in dry making sure that both surfaces are clean and dry. Torque bolts down to spec and you should be all set. Hope this helps. Mine is leak free and runs great.

1BDGL10 BADGL10 just two that poped to my head.

The reason your losing your presets when the car is turned off is that your constant power (12v) is not hooked up right. In fact you might want to try flip flopping your the wire you think is ACC power and the one for 12V. Before you do this take a tester and test wires. Find the wire that is hot whether the car is turned off or on. This is your 12V. Then take the tester again and find the wire that is only hot when the ignition is on ACC or on. This is your ACC wire. Hope this helps some. I dont have an actual color code to tell you what wire is what.

Ok thanks for the tip. Next time im near a napa ill stop in and get some.

Well just took the car for a spin today to get gas (its cold as hell up here and dont like it sitting with a low tank) and in the process got some STP fuel treatment for de-icing and general cleaning. Well i chirped the tires for the first time in a while. Im thinking the carb might have been a bit gunked from sitting for so long. It ran smooth as silk all the way back. IDK maybe im being optimistic but it seems to be running really good. I dont have the money to upgrade to a weber until summer anyways so i get some time to live with this carb for awhile. When and if i do swap carbs i think ill just stick with this manifold for general ease. I dont feel like pulling a manifold again even though it wasnt all that hard to do.

Im pretty sure the accerator pump is fine considering if its warmed up it doesnt hessitate at all. Even when its cold it barely does. I realized that the primary is smaller than the single barrel of my Carter weber but was hoping that that was not the only cause of my crappy power off line. But it might just be that. Do weber 32/36 carbs have bigger primarys? If so that might be next on my wish list. Well after a 5speed swap

Hey everyone. If you have been following along ive just finished converting my car from the one barrel carter-weber to the two barrel hitachi. The hitachi runs a hell of a lot better with no hessitation off idle. And at cruising speeds when i accelerate to pass someone i can feel the secondary kick open and the car starts pulling harder than it did before. Only problem is that off idle its slower and more gutless than before. I mean i used to be able to spin a tire in the gravel with the one barrel and i cant even do that anymore. What gives? Im thinking maybe i need to play with the mixture. Would that be a safe assumption? Anything else i should check into? Would the fact that i dont have the duty solenoid anymore affect my off idle acceleration? Thanks for the help guys!

Oh sorry about that Caboobaroo. I didnt read all the way through your post. I really should start doing that.

Go here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52677 If he decides to sell it it will make it easy for you...well as easy as it can be.

I would save yourself the headaches and just find a pump, mounts and all the hoses for an EA81. They are entirely different beasts so im sure it would be a PITA to swap a pump from an EA82 in. Just my 2 cents.

Im going on my experience with fuel injection from my IROC camaro seeing as how ive never owned a fuel injected suby. It "could" be the IAC (idle air control) valve. When mine was messed up it caused my camaro to surge coming to a light.

I really dont think there is a problem with my secondary. It opens under full acceleration but i dont have a lot of power low down when its only the primary which leads me to believe i need to fuss around with the mixture a bit. All in all im happy with how it performs compared to before and im also all set for when/if i decide to upgrade to a weber.

hey all. Sorry to leave you hanging for so long. Ive been real busy. I ended up putting the car into the shop to button up the details. I needed a new ASV valve put in anyways so it was worth it. They changed out the throttle cable, got the thermostat housing to seal correctly (somehow the bolts that i had were too long for the housing), and replaced said ASV valve and silencer. So anyways knowing my luck it always comes out of the shop with one more problem then it started with. I had an giant exhaust leak from the manifold gaskets. Also all of a sudden my front brakes were making all sorts of noise. I decided to screw it and drive it back to UCONN like that but when i got here i couldnt stand it. So i went and got the exhaust fixed by a shop that knows what there doing. They fixed it the right way with helicoils on the drivers side and the passenger side just needed new studs. No more leaks and its quieter than ever. They also replaced my front pads. Any longer and i would have needed new rotors. Its not that i couldnt have done any of this myself but i just dont have the time and would also rather leave it to people that have done it before. Now for the driving impressions. The car once warm has no hessitation in the throttle what so ever!!! I dont know that it has any more power than the one barrel off idle but it continues to make power up to 4500 rpms where the one barrel would cut my engine off at around 3500. I still havent really tuned the carb so i might be able to pull a bit more out of it later on. During the swap however i lost my tranny kickdown. Im thinking the manifold i have is off a manual subaru because it doesnt have any place for the kickdown to mount as far as i can see. Oh well just means that i have to manually downshift it to second when i need to and over this summer swap the tranny to a 5 speed. I also now have the ECS light coming on because i didnt put the duty solenoid back on the manifold simply because i didnt have one. Runs great without it though. Thanks everyone for your help on my project. It would have been nice if i could have avoided putting it into the shop twice but i just ran out of time and had bad luck with other things going wrong.

Um maybe a dumb question but are those exhaust manifold gaskets or just gaskets down the exhaust somewhere? Im hoping that mine wont look like that once i get my exhaust leak fixed. My care is loud as all hell right now because both..count em both! exhaust manifold gaskets blew out. Good stuff.

My EA81 sedan with full WRX drivetrain. Only external mod would be newish wheels. No one would see it coming

I know u want spacers for those rims but i gotta ask why. That car looks great the way it is. Those rims are already out to the edge without hanging outside the bodylines.

Nope it has been done in a brat. Heres the website. http://www.subarubrat.com/