hatchsub

Wow I love your car. Love the color. Everything. Nice find!!

Um not to sound dumb but that doesnt look like a turbo motor to me. Is it just a standard EA81 or is it a turbo and i just dont know enough.

1. Love the styling of the EA81 cars 2. Cheap to run and easy to fix 3. Gets more attention than my IROC camaro..seriously 4. Can gather a crowd on a college car meet where there are other new pimped out subarus

You would need the hi low 4speed tranny, drive shaft, and the entire rear end from the junkyard car. I believe you also need a different fuel tank for clearance around the rear diff. you didnt state if it was a manual or auto 2wd. If its auto you need the manual pedal assemble as well. Not sure if the 2wd bellhousing and clutch are the same or not. Someone else on here would be able to answer that better than me. This will give you an idea of what your up against. If the body is in really good shape then it might be worth it but if its a rustbucket it would be easier to just buy it cheap and use it as a beater until you find a good 4wd hatch.

1). Dont know either. 2). yes there is a coolant line that runs to the base of the carb. It come up through the manifold from a rubber hose. You'll see it if you look at the manifold. If the Weber doesnt need this line then just block off the coolant line.

Most people..including me dont like it for a number of reasons. Its a bad design. When looking at it you can see that fuel is delivered from the passenger side of the carb. Only problem with this is that if you make a left hand turn too fast you starve the engine and run the risk of stalling out infront of oncoming traffic. This has almost happened to me a number of times. The second reason is..its a one barrel!! It makes an already sluggish engine feel slower. My car has 59,000 miles on it and i swapped to a hitachi cause i couldnt take all the hessitation and stalling that the carter weber gave me. The hitachi has some of the same problems from the factory but mine is a ru-builders hitachi and runs like a top. Also hitachis have the fuel delivered from the front of the carb so less likely to stall out making a fast turn right or left. And being a two barrel..it gives a bit more power. Ive driven an EA81 with a two barrel and my current car with a one barrel and i can say that there is a noticible difference in how it feels when you put your foot on the gas. With my old EA81 hatch that had a two barrel and an auto i could get it to chirp a tire if i tried hard enough. Couldnt even do that with the one barrel and auto in my 83 sedan.

The weber as a lot of people have found gets about the same if not better gas milage than the hitachi. If you have to pass emissions then this might not be the carb for you cause it does not need emissions stuff run. The hitachi is cheaper and is a fine carb if rebuilt correctly. I have a ru-builders hitachi that runs real nice. Its all comes down to cost i think. If you want to pay a bit more and get better performance get the weber. If you want good performance for less than the weber get the hitachi. Try the search button. There is alot of info about this subject. EDIT: All of my talk about webers has been about the 32/36 not the carter weber one barrel. If your talking about the one barrel go for the hitachi for sure. The one barrel is crap.

Yeah u can still get KYB GR2's for 2WD subys. I got a pair in the rear of mine..next summer ill do the fronts. There good shocks for the money and about the only option without modes.

Well i tried something just for the hell of it. I put the gasket in dry again and tightened down the housing and i could actually see the gap between the manifold and the housing. Something is seriously wrong with either the manifold or the housing. I dont have time to mess with it anymore seeing as how im going back to school on monday so i give up and am having the shop finish it for me. It just ticks me off that i get it up and running..and running really great for that matter and then i cant drive it because of a thermostat housing not sealing and throttle cable thats too short. For once i wish i could finish something on my own but i always run into some weird stupid thing that keeps me from finishing. Sorry to run on but im just a little pissed is all.

Does this mean you bought the silver 84 turbo coupe? EDIT: Oh sorry should have read the above message. This is probably your turbo brat huh?

Ok went and held the housing up against the manifold with no gasket on it and wiggled it back and forth. There was a gap. It had room to move so i figured out what area was high and took it down on the housing. Now it sits flush so tomorrow im going to put the gasket in and seal it up. Now should i just stick the gasket on the housing (it has built in adhesive) and then put some permatex on the manifold side of the gasket or should i just put permatex on both sides just to be safe?

Thats the thing..i made sure the thermostat was in the groove that it was supposed to be in and that it was facing up and in the right direction but still it does not seal. Im begginging to wonder if maybe the manifold is a bit warped but i cant see that being the case. Should i put the permatex on both sides of the gasket and let it sit up for 10 minutes..then put it in and let it sit overnight? Or should i just put it on one side and let it sit ten minutes and then install it and let it sit over night. Whatever your response is im going to do.

Hey all. Ive never had this problem before but now it seems that i cant make my Thermostat housing seal up to the manifold. The first time i tried it i put the gasket in dry like i always do and it didnt seal. Second time i tried i used some permatex on the manifold side. Sealed for a few minutes then started seeping by. Any suggestions? The only thing i can think of now is to put a good amount of permatex on both sides of the gasket and stick it on there and let it sit up overnight before i start the car.

Yeah i second the EA81's. Ive had two and never had any major problems with them. They only need basic upkeep like any car. There pretty gutless though

Cant give you any advice on the buzzing but on the flying saucer i believe you are talking about the silencer that is also hooked to the ASV (Air suction Valve). If your silencer has a hole in it then the ASV valve is bad as well and could cause some drivablity problems. Mine doesnt run as smooth right now because i have a hole in my silencer.

Ok thanks. Ill try that tomorrow morning when im fully awake.

Hey i just swapped from one barrel to two barrel on my EA81 sedan but now i need a new throttle cable cause the old one isnt long enough to reach. How do i get it out though? The book i have (haynes) is very vauge about it. It says to disconnect it on the engine and in the passenger compartment and then push it through the firewall. I cant though. Theres some black cube that is stopping me from pushing it through. Anyone who can help please do. I need my car back by next monday.

Ok all i got it running. Seems to run really good actually. I had to reseal the thermostat housing and still might end up doing it again..not sure if its leaking or not cause it leaked so much the first time. Oh well. Thanks for all your help guys.

Ok well got some more time to work on it. Bolted the carb down to the manifold and the EGR valve as well. I sorted out the vacuum mess and cleaned the heads real good. Took a long..long...long time to get all the gasket removed. Got it mounted on the engine, with the help of a buddy to hold the wires and such out of the way as i dropped it in, and torqued down to specs. Basically everything is hooked up except the throttle cable (too short for the hitachi..need a new one) and the alternator. My back was killing me from spending all day hunched under the hood (im 6'2"), so i gave up for tonight. So hopefully ill get it all running good tomorrow. Im just praying it starts up and runs good. Wish me luck guys!! Almost forgot..since i torqued the intake down to 16ft pounds do i need to retorque it down the road or am i all set?

OMG!!! That thing is sick. Who ever would make a 4X4 lifted Delorean really had a lot of spare time on their hands.

OH yeah...not having a cat will surely affect how it passes. I would throw a new one on...fix that EGR valve or block it off and replace the O2 sensor if your car has one. Mine failed for CO because of a crappy O2 sensor. Also check the timing and make sure its set where it should be. Another trick to passing is get it up on the highway and up to temp before trying to pass. This will blow out any junk that may cause it to fail. Good luck!

Hey thanks wintersubaru. I took your advise and soaked the hell out of the bolt on the head. I tried to get it free a few times last night to no avail but this morning i went out there and put a set of vise grips on it tight and hit the vise grips with a hammer and it broke free. Got the entire intake out of the car now. I even got one of the intake gaskets stuck to the manifold so one less i have to scrap off the head. The rest of my work today involved sorting out the vacuum mess under the hood. The vacuum lines are very similar when you sit down and look at them next to eachother (that is the carter weber lines compared to the hitachi). I already have the vacuum lines all squared away..just a matter of waiting for my secondary diaphragm to come in from NAPA to put everything back together. Thanks again. Ill post some picks up when i get a chance.

Umm.. if your EGR valve is stuck open that would cause your car to run poorly. If you block it off or get a new valve my bet is it will run great.

Well i give you credit..your still driving something unique and cool so i support ya. But i also know you'll be back to the land of the flat four suby.

Ok got some time to work on it yesterday. I have all the bolts for the intake out and everything that needs to be unplugged, unplugged. There are only two things keeping me from taking it out. The Steel EGR pipe with the fitting going into the block is still connected and the steel pipe that hooks to the coolant hose coming out of the firewall is still hooked. Am i going to have problems with the EGR pipe fitting being seized with time? Im not really worried about getting the hose off the coolant pipe its just being a PITA and i was tired by the time i got to it and decided to call it a night. Also there is another electrical device that i found while taking stuff apart. It mounts on the drivers side intake bolt and has two vacuum lines coming out of the bottom of it. Its about an one inch by one inch barrel shaped thing. Is this important? If so im going to have to figure out where to hook those vacuum lines when i finish converting to hitachi. Thanks everyones for your help this far.