hatchsub

Not quit the same same kind of story but along the same lines...my brother in law had an 84 EA81 sedan back when he was in college in the early 90's and still had the ignition key from it. His ignition in that car had gotten so worn down that he could start the car, pull the key out, lock the doors and go inside again to let the car warm up. So naturally he wanted to see if that same key would start my car. And wouldn't ya know it it did. We didnt have a probem with it getting stuck though. Just got lucky i guess. The key wouldnt work the door locks though.

check your fuel filter(s) too. If they're plugged up they can really mess stuff up as well.

I hope this isnt a dumb question but are you running it without the exhaust right now? Cause if thats the case that could be a big part of your problem or the whole problem. These cars are designed to run on a certain amount of backpressure. If you are running it without the exhaust or a big portion of it the it wont run right. Just a thought though it might be way off.

Those are the 82 four spoke LX wheels. They carried them over into the 83 model year. If you look at the old dealer booklets you can see them on 82 and 83 subys. The other 4 spokes you're thinking of are the 84 four spoke alloys. I found a set of the 82's for my car last year but ive never seen another set until now.

An update now. I had a local shop put a vacuum gauge on the secondary hookup that im talking about and the secondary didnt open. They suspected the diaphragm was busted so i went home and opened it up and pulled out the diaphragm. It looked fine to me but i went down to napa and placed an order for a new one anyways. When i got back home something still wasnt sitting right with me cause that diaphragm that i pulled out looked brand new. It was still plyable and everything. So i went and looked at the plate that i removed to get to the diaphragm and bingo..figured it out. It IS internal vacuum! There are two openings on the cover...one to the inside of the carb and the other to hook up a line and run to where ever its supposed to run. Cant get my money back on the diaphragm that i ordered but its probably just as well cause i dont want to put it back together and have the chance of leaks now that i pulled it apart. Still dont know where to hook that external vacuum line for the secondary though..Anyone?

Thanks Wintersubaru but i think i understand where to hook up the dis advance. The only problem im having is that i have a vacuum hookup coming out of my secondary diaphragm and i dont know where to hook that up. I would think it would be ok to just hook to the same source of vacuum as my choke pulloff but im not sure on that.

A napa gold filter is just fine. No need to spend extra for a dealer filter. I use 10w30 year round of a good brand name oil..depending on whats on sale. I feel there is no need to spend the extra money for synthetic as long as your changing your oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months.

No prob wintersubaru. Anyone else know where to hook up the vacuum line for the secondary? Can i just hook it up to a vacuum source on the intake manifold...maybe the same one as the choke pull off?

well took some more close looks at the carb today. The line that i thought was for the vacuum secondary def is. If i open the vacuum secondary and hold my face near the vacuum port i get a blast of air coming out. Only problem is i would think if i opened the secondary and held my finger over the port that the secondary would stay open but it doesnt. Is something wrong here or does it just need more vacuum than a finger over the hole to keep the secondary open? I dont want to put this thing on and find that i only have a single barrel carb again. And Wintersubaru, 75subie sold me the carb and i was told its off an 82 or 83 EA81. Its been rebuilt and has something like 5000 on it.

Uuumm not really as interesting as all of that but mines got less than 1000 miles to go before it hits 60,000.

I believe mine is an earlier carb than yours wintersubaru. I only have 2 vacuum lines on the front of my carb. I do remember having something like 3 or 4 on my 86 EA81 carb though.

bump...really need some help guys.

woo i wish i got that for milage. I only get around 27mpg on the highway with a EA81 auto. When i convert to 5 speed im hoping for low 30's. Think it can be done?

Ended up posting twice by accident. So this one ill just wish you good luck with it.

If you suspect one of your valves isnt opening or closing all the way then YES that would be a big thing eating away at your performance. If it isnt opening all the way then you may not be getting enough air and fuel in the cylander. The flip side of that is if its not closing all the way you have no compression, or low compression. Ive heard on this site about using sea foam to clean up sticky valves and HLA problems on those motors though i dont have experience with the stuff. Try using the search function to find more on sea foam. I know there was an entire post dedicated to it a little while ago.

I may be wrong but that sounds normal to me. Most carbed cars need a few good pumps in the morning to get them going good. I know that mine wont start if i dont pump it a few times when its cold outside. I figure just the nature of the beast.

Ok i know ive said this before but now im home and actually ready to do the swap from carter-weber one barrel to hitachi 2-barrel. I have a few vacuum hookup questions however. 1.Could someone tell me where the vacuum secondary line hooks up? Im assuming right now that any source of vacuum off the manifold will be acceptable but i want to know where it was hooked from the factory. Seems that every vacuum diagram picture ive looked at shows the drivers side of the carb which doesnt do me any good. 2.Another question I have, since ive decided to not bother using the steal vacuum lines that run under the intake, is can i hook the vacuum advance to both vacuum hookups on the front of the carb. Mr Carb told me he hooked his advance to the lower of the two hookups but im wondering if it would make sense to hook it to both with a Y fitting. Any opinions on this one or am i over thinking this thing? I just dont want to mess up my daily driver. Thanks again guys. Ill take pics during the work and post them for your viewing pleasure..that is when i get down to pulling it all apart.

yeah too bad they arnt avalible in the states. They would probably look sick on my suby sedan

Ouch im so sorry. If that were my sedan wrecked i would probably cry..yeah i can admit that. I love my car and would be hard pressed to find another sedan in the new england area in as good shape. Good luck with finding another wagon and settling with the insurance company. And what is it with jeeps? Seems everyone knows someone that has been hit by one of those things. My good friend got T-boned by a jeep running a red light..a mother with kids in the back seat!!! And then she had the nerve to blame him for the accident!! To quote Family Guy "that really grinds my gears!"

Not just an XT thing but an old subaru thing. I dont know when they stopped doing it but both my 86 EA81 hatch and my 83 EA81 sedan had that light. Both of them also had that light come on for the same reason...A bad thermo-sensor.

Amen to that. Dont get me wrong i love my suby but its no muscle car. Thats why i have my IROC camaro. Its fairly stock right now with only a flowmaster 3 inch exhaust but more modes are coming. Truth be told..its a lot less expensive to go fast in a V-8 car then a 6 cylander or 4. Lots of fun until it rains or snows. Then into the garage it goes and out comes the suby thats good for any weather.

That is true if there both 4WD. When an EA81 is 2WD it will have a 5 speed if its manual. I know this cause i want one for my auto EA81

Also one thing to note is that EA82's require timing belts to be changed every 60,000 or so miles. EA81's have timing gears so no need to worry about replacing them.

Except for those few lucky people that have the Turbo EA81's...droooool.

Yeah u gotta love not having to worry about changing belts or chains....EVER. :-)