hatchsub

back to the top again

What Subarian said. The O2 sensor takes readings of your exhaust and tells the computer to compensate if its too rich or too lean. If the O2 is bad it could be telling the computer the wrong thing.

and back to the top..

Ok just went out and looked again and there are only two big coolant lines running towards the intake. The one on top hooks to the steel line that runs the width of the manifold over to where the thermostat is and the other one that is below runs under the intake and over to the water pump. Other than that there are no other lines in that area. So...should i figure out how the coolant lines run on the hitachi manifold or just forget about it and put two bolts in those holes? Does anyone have any good pics of the back of the manifold? Ug im wondering if im in over my head with this one.

Thats a good question. I havent a clue. I was under the hood looking around and i didn't see any big coolant lines going into the back of the manifold on my car. Also it seems i have another hole to plug that was meant for the thermo sensor on the front of the manifold on the pasenger side. I was just over looking at pics of Mr Carbs de-emissioned brat and it didn't even have anything there. Idk if he just pluged the hole or maybe he has a different manifold without that hole. All i know is i have three holes that i have to plug with either coolant lines, bolts or sensors. And by the way the manifold cleaned up real nice. Thanks

Ok went out and really took a good look at the carter-weber intake thats on my car and compared it to the hitachi intake. Now i have another couple of problems. There are two large holes in the back of the manifold on the drivers side that appear made to have something screw into them. They're connected to the coolant passage. The carter weber does not have these. What should i do with these? Get two big bolts and close them up? Also what should i do about the throttle cable? Its on the left side of the carb for the Carter-weber and on the right for the hitachi. Anyone? I really needs some help here. This is as in depth as ive ever gotten on one of these car or any car for that matter and i dont want to go in not knowing what im doing.

Damn!! These engines usually do blow headgaskets if you overheat them bad. You got REAL lucky.

bump

Yeah same thing with my first subaru (86 EA81 hatch). It had sat in the guys driveway for 3 years prior to me getting it. I didnt want to go through the hassle of having it towed so i threw a new battery in it, gave it an oil change and it fired up on the third try. Ran like crap until i got around to giving it a tune up, and replacing the intake manifold gaskets and a new not so gunked up carb.

Well alright im going to go out and wing it and hope for the best. One more question though...does anyone know where to hook up the vacuum line for the vacuum secondary? The carter-weber doesn't have a vacuum secondary so i have nothing to compare it to. Thanks.

I got mine up to 85mph (the top of the gauge) and didn't realize it. Then again mine is still a baby and has no problems cruising at 75 for hours on end.

bump..anyone?

They come up now and again..i got mine with 52,000 miles but its 2wd and on the wrong coast.

Hello again guys, For all of you that may be following along with what im doing..im home now and ready to unbolt my carter-weber intake and bolt on a hitachi intake. Anyways i have some last minute questions. Im looking at the hitachi carburator that i have and it appears to not have the plugs for the two duty solenoids that mount on the drivers side of the intake...or do they not plug into the carb at all? Also the carter-weber carb only had one "thermo vacuum valve" where as the hitachi set up has two. I guess what im getting at is do i need to use the duty solenoids when hooking up this carb and do i need the "thermo vacuum valves" as well? I want to simplify things under there and only hook up what i need. Im also looking at the metal vacuum lines that run under the intake and wondering if i can just get rid of them all together? Will i get an ECS light coming on if i don't hook up the duty solenoids? My thinking is that i should be able to get by with just the vacuum advance, EGR and vacuum lines on the carb hooked up. All the other little sensors and junk probably dont do much good anymore anyways. Thanks in advance guys.

Yeah it takes an aweful lot for me to squeal the tires in my 83 sedan. Even with just front wheel drive i do better than most cars in connecticut in the snow and ice. Never gotten it stuck once. Same goes for my first subaru (an 86 EA81 hatch FWD).

Hell yeah...my camaro is expensive as hell to fix if anything breaks. My subaru is easier to work on as well and it gets more looks and compliments than my camaro..when its not covered in road gunk.

Ok thanks. I was just planning on borrowing a Torque wrench from my local shop..the've known me for awhile and let me borrow lifts and tool here and there.

Ok thanks guys. One other question sorta on the same topic...should i worry about getting the bolts out for the intake without ruining the heads? I figure since the bolts appear to be aluminum and i know the heads are that i shouldn't have a problem. I just have to be careful how far i torque them down when i put on the new intake.

Hey all, Im going home at the end of the week and i have plans to work on my suby by swapping intakes and carbs (going from one barrel carter-weber to hitachi two barrel). Ive been told that its ok to use the permetex high temp copper gasket sealer on the intake gaskets...but should i also use it on the carb gaskets to guarantee a good seal and what about the EGR valve gasket? Should i only use the sealer on the intake gaskets and and just install the others dry but make sure the surface is very clean? Just trying to make sure i do it right the first time. Thanks guys.

That does suck...and to think i was pissed when the local yard crushed an 84 4wd hatch..that still ran!!!

Ive only seen two go on ebay in the last few years. One was in Washington state area and looked real nice with 66,000 miles. The other was in Arizona and looked nice as well. The first one was a to die for cherry red metalic. Second one was a dark green metalic. I want one someday...when i have money

Yeah i wonder this as well. Your much better off with fuel injection. Better gas milage and less drivablity issues.

Oh wow its really too late for me to be responding and ive been studying for tests all day on top of that. I agree with pattianruss; start simple. Check all your wires and plugs. Make sure you have good contact on everything and that your coil is putting out enough spark. If all is good with plugs, wires, rotor, and cap then i would say think about replacing the carb.

The only thing that i can think of is that maybe when you had the carb apart you put something together wrong or something got mucked up. Im not saying that this is nessisarily the case. You might have done everything right. But if the carb u started out with was junk it might still be junk. Also if you get those jets wrong it wont run right. Idk im kinda going out on a limb here. The weber seems to be a popular performance upgrade but its kinda pricy. You might want to invest a couple hundred in a guaranteed good carb from roo-builders.

I would take some carb cleaner or brake cleaner and spray it around all the areas that could be leaking vacuum. Common areas would be the base of the carb where it attaches to the manifold, the manifold where it bolts to the heads, and the throttle shaft of the carb. If there is a vacuum leak your idle will jump up. Also spray some on different vacuum lines that may be suspect. Mine had a good size leak on the steel vacuum lines that snake under the intake manifold. Hope this gets you started. Good luck and welcome to the board. You'll get plenty of great help here.