CodemanLivs

Exactly And Good info Thanks Actually that does work really good from what I've heard, but it's not very incognito. I was just at the smog test shop last week and they went over and under every inch of the car with a mirror on a stick and a flashlight just before the failed me for insufficient data, system not ready.

Actually that does work really good from what I've heard, but it's not very incognito. I was just at the smog test shop last week and they went over and under every inch of the car with a mirror on a stick and a flashlight just before the failed me for insufficient data, system not ready.

As I type I am testing the wiring . Just had the CEL come on , this time is was p0136 *circuit malfunction" which completely makes since. Just need to pin point the malfunction now!

.Yes , thats exactly what I was after. Just trying to tame the signal from the downstream sensor. Because I can't pass smog here in California when my subi keeps spitting that dreaded P0420 code !! And a California Cat is around $600 installed. The resistor and the cap for the mod were like 3 bucks 🤣 So I had to try it !! .... But look were it got me.

I've driven about 40miles with multiple stops and no CEL , but it's just a matter of time. I'm certain what I did , could not have caused any wires to melt. The short circuit I made intentionally was done with a resistor and capacitor and done on the 1 volt signal wire. So yes I will start with chasing the codes and I will forget about the the possibility that I screwed up . Well....at least for now anyway.

Oh and yes the #1 sensor is operating as it should no problems at all. Guess I need to follow the loss of voltage and determine the cause and focus on the fault code instead of what I'm guessing I did to hurt it.

Okay so absolutely no change to anything after the swap. Ever since the failed mod the voltage from the downstream O2 sensor has been between .32v and .33v . I'm fairly certain it should be between .01 and 1.0v. hence the DTC and the 0037. It hasn't actually thrown a code yet but scoping the sensor while running is showing me the same results as the stock ECU was. Is there a fuse or relay on the O2 sensor circuit ?? I believe both O2 sensors are powered together from the same circuit, so I should have lost power to both. Which would lead me to believe either the sensor is a brand new defect or I have a wiring issue. As mentioned before I fixed all the wires I had cut or spliced. I'm fairly certain I didn't smoke any wires anywhere in the process and I never even saw a spark or anything arching or smelled any thing burning. Any input as to what else I could look for or test to help find the source of my problem?

I'm going to do the swap and I'll report my findings here. Ever since my failed mod it's throwing code 0037 (bank 1 sensor 2 heater circut low voltage or something to that effect). Which was not present until I shorted that exact heater circuit trying to mod it.

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you And indeed I have removed and un did all modifications and everything is back to factory specs. Also have a new O2 sensor (downstream} going in as well in case I fried that too.

I have read online recently that and I quote "The ECU between Automatics and Manuals are exactly the same. Subaru has a different computer to manage their automatic transmissions." I have a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport and while trying a mod to regulate the signal to the ECU from the bank 1 number 2 O2 sensor to trick the ECU into believing the Cat. is efficient, I may have burn up the ECU. So... Does the above statement have any merit?? I have found and obtained an ECU from an donor car that was spot in identical except that it was an automatic instead of a manual. I am reluctant to swap it and turn the key just to find out if it will work properly. I found out the hard way what can happen playing with the electronics already and don't need to cause any more problems than I already have.

I actually had the same thing and it failed pretty quick , maybe it lasted a year before leaking. I ended up cleaning the nipple well with some alcohol and then I found just the right size bolt to fit inside the nipple. Along with some JB weld it threaded itself nicely into the hole and is now a permanent part of the radiator !

I was new 40 k Miles ago and.was great. The vibration started a month before I did the head gaskets. And even though i don't think it's the problem... I guess I'm going to.have to agree with you that I should try it. After all it seems logical based on the type of chatter it has.

Here is a link to my other post Please take a look and chime in I'm desperately needing help https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/173462-feels-like-i-have-no-motor-mounts-at-all/

Ok , here is the latest. I went to pull your pick and got the drive shaft assembly off an 04 Impreza Outback . Like new condition 74 bucks fit perfectly. Made NO difference what so ever !!! This car is on the way to the crusher !!! I am not one to throw in the towel EVER!!! Failure is not in my vocabulary!! I Cannot figure this out !! List of items changed since this Shutter (vibration) started. Motor, transaxel, rear diff, drive shaft assembly, flywheel, clutch KIT, all new motor and trans mounts, wheel bearing hub assemblies , brake pads and shoes. Ive even looked for a crack in the cross member the motor mounts sit on .. cause that's what it feels like , like something is broken structurally . Please !! Anyone else have any suggestions, I'll try anything. And I'm very certain , VERY VERY CERTAIN,. that every single nut and bolt were torqued to spec and thread lock applied as specified. Also , my clutch kit and flywheel are new and true . This is not clutch chatter, i know exactly how that feels. I have some video footage but it just doesn't convey the message Even have footage from under the car.

This one was an Exedy. I know not the best , but I'm fed up with throwing money at this thing!

Ok cranked the all the way to both side and it turns smooth, no popping or binding or noise of any kind. What else ya got??

So an 04 Impreza outback even though completely different part numbers have identical drive shaft assemblies as a 2002 Impreza outback sport This I know for a fact. unfortunately it did not help my shutter problem at all So an 04 Impreza outback even though completely different part numbers have identical drive shaft assemblies as a 2002 Impreza outback sport This I know for a fact. unfortunately it did not help my shutter problem at all. please see my other post tittled "Feels like i have no motor mounts at all"

Okay well the best way to find out I guess is to just stop second guessing myself and go pull the drive shaft off the donor. I'll make sure to take my tape measure this time along with a poor sketch of my current setups measurements. Thank you all for the info ...much appreciated. Will follow up with my results

I have 2002 Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5L 5mt Potential donor is a 2004 Impreza Wagon, 2.5L TS 5mt They are identical cars except one is green !! HaHa Went to the parts store websites and look for driveshafts for each vehicle. They come up with different part numbers for each. I'd it just a slight variation but still usable??

I have noticed that. My motor , trans and rear diff were all from Foresters. Thank for the info

I've never heard of this and I will go try the tight circles on dry pavement right now.

Does that mean more heavy duty?! Or are you saying that it's not interchangeable.

2002 Impreza Outback Sport. As posted previously in a prior post, i have a shutter upon release of the clutch from a dead stop, and the source has yet to located. Literally the only thing yet to be replaced is the driveline. My driveline upon visual inspection looks 100% okay. But after changing the motor, transmission,(yes new clutch and flywheel) rear diff and mounts and everything in between I feel it needs to be done just to eliminate it as a potential source. and due to their moderately high price tag and the fact that it may not even solve my problem I'm looking for a used one. So my question is are they all the same? i think turbos get a slightly larger diameter than non. And the automatics are a different lengths. But is that it or do they differ by model as well?? is there different splines on the input shaft end??. Am I safe in assuming that any wrx, legacy, or Forester up to 2006 ish with a 5mt will be compatible??

No , there are no codes. And yes ,as it's being released(slipping) . Once the pedal is up all the way the shuddering has stopped and as long as your accelerating it won't do it on the following shifts. But if you downshift , it is well.... Let's just say it's rather violent shuddering . The only thing I have not changed yet is the drive shaft /carrier bearing and u-joints. I guess that will be next. Is it possible to change the carrier , it seems as if it's not because they are sold as one unit at all the parts stores. Or is it that I'll need a press and some special rigging to do it. Also., Are the driveshafts interchangeable as long as it's off manual trans or do vary according to model??

Funny until I was at the parts yard recently and seen a broken release fork I didn't know that was possible. So yes I thoroughly inspected the release fork. And yes I'm getting full pedal to the floor. The new trans is working and shifting thru all gears beautifully !! Again the shuttering is worse when you baby it from a dead stop. If you get on it and go. It's not even there ! Oh and downshifting is a NoNo feels like I'm gonna drop the trans right there in the road. I'm gonna post some video