trooperjeep

I have flushed the heater core 3 times with a low pressure garden hose and home made adaptor. It runs clean. The thermostat was just replaced last month with a new 195'F but I was wondering if a new thermostat can be defective? It's 36'F here in NYS, but the engine never warms up beyond the 1/4 mark on the dash guage. T.J.

I vote Legacy as well. From what I've read, they seem to handle high speeds better because they are larger and have a little bit bigger motor. Plus the added weight helps them to "stick" better. T.J.

I'm wondering if this is related to my loss of heat problem as well. How can one tell if the vacuum is bad? I have air blowing out at the correct locations (dash, windshield, or floor) as per push button setting... but it just never gets HOT enough. T.J.

As per Tom's suggestion... I looked for the wiring going the electric fans motor. I found it but cannot trace it back as the wires pass into the uni-body cavity. Also, I cannot find where the control relay wires T's into the harness. Any suggestions? T.J.

Sorry... I wanted to know if Tom's idea to remove the belt driven fan and change the connector/relay for the existing electric fan (so it would work automaticly) work on a 92 loyale. Is the wiring similar? T.J.

I like Tom's idea about removing the belt driven fan and using just the electric. Since my in a 92 Loyale, will trick to... " locate the wiring going the the electric fans motor. You will see where the control relay wires kinda T's into the harness. Un-plug the relay wiring, and put the connectors for the fan wiring back together. Now your electric fan will run as a non-ACed car would" ...work on MY car? Thanks again group for all your help! T.J.

The new thermostats temp rating is 195 deg F Which direction should the jiggle pin be facing? Thanks! T.J.

MaroonDuneDoom, Had a similar problem with my very first car after I hit a deer (well he hit me first) it was a super clean 1969 AMC Rambler. I tied a chain around a huge tree, wrapped it around the bumper and slowly backed up. It took a few tires and a few hard tugs, but it worked! It helps to have a spotter to watch the progress. Be sure to cover the stretched out section of the chain between your car and the tree with a bunch of heavy old rugs. If the chain breaks it will be just like a steel whip and cut right through your windshield (or your head). The rugs will absorb most of the impact if it breaks. Good Luck. T.J.

Can't be the thermostat, I just put a new one in. Where should the guage read? Mine will only climb up to 3/4 towards "hot" when parked and ideling for a long time. However, when I drive, it always goes down to 1/4 near "cold". Now that's it's 34 deg F. outside, the car runs even colder! The heater blows very little warm air at all. A few weeks ago, I posted this problem about air in the heater core. The fix was to flush the heater core (forwards and backwards) to get all the air out. I did this and had no prpblems. Now that it's cold out, I can hear air bubbles in the heater core again and there is very little heat. I have checked the system for leaks but can find none. What's up with that? Also... If I yank the mechanical fan, will I overheat the engine? Will the electric fan automaticly take over if the engine gets too hot? T.J.

Cool! Thanks! I just got recertified this October. Good stuff, especially when you have kids. T.J.

Hi All, I have a 92 Loyale, auto, 4WD, that tends to run very cold. I have replaced the thermostat with a OEM 195' and flushed the radiator system out twice. The radiator has 2 fans... 1 belt driven fan that runs constantly 1 electric fan (not sure how/when it runs) QUESTION: I'm thinking the belt driven fan is cooling the engine off too much, since it's always spinning. I guess it's internal clutch is shot. If I remove the belt driven fan, will the electric fan take over and keep the engine cool enough? How is the electric fan set up? Is it automatic or just used when the AC is on? :cornfuzz: T.J.

I agree with subarubrat... but I'll go even more non P.C. Just kick the bastard in the nuts! Rock on! T.J.

Since I've never had to do any transmission work nor have I looked at it much, I have some questions... Where is the modulator located? And where dose the vacuum line running to it start from? Also, is the transmission cooler on the bottom of the radiator? Anything else to look for? Thanks! T.J.

Sweet! Love the XT Turbo. Nice rides man.... Welcome aboard. T.J.

As with all stubborn bolts... don't keep cranking to try to loosen it or it will snap off! When you start to feel too much resistance when loosing, re-tighten it, then try loosing it again. This will work the threads back and forth and help loosen the rust. Also, use heat! Metal expands when hot so you can either: A. Run the car up to operating temp or B. Use a torch to heat up the threads on the bolt. I have been able to break loose seemingly impossibly rusted on bolts by heating them with a torch until till they just started to glow red. It breaks the rust loose easily. And here's my First-Responder (medic) speech... Remember, don't burn yourself! Always wear heavy leather gloves, long sleeve shirt and eye protection when using a torch. Have a bucket of water on hand just in case. If you do burn your self, immediately rinse it under cold water and put ice (wrapped in a plastic bag) directly on the burn. Keep it on there till it just starts to go numb, remove, wait a little, then repeat until there is no more pain. Skin tissue burns from the inside out, so you have to cool it down all the way to prevent blistering. OK, rant over. Hope all this helps! T.J.

I jusr did a muffler change on my 92 Loyale. I tried a cherry bomb turbo 2 muffler, but it was far too noisy. However, I was able to get an aftermarket "universal-fit" from the local Auto-Zone and modified the pipes to fit. It's has 2" openings and gives the car a little better performance. PS> Here is an on-line repair manual for Subaru’s. Some of this may pertain to your year. http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML T.J.

Hi All, I have noticed that on my 92 Loyale, auto, and 4WD that runs and shifts very smoothly. However, the automatic transmission fluid slowly disappears (about 1/3 quart) after a month. I have parked the car on papers overnight but cannot find any leaks! Where's it going? :cornfuzz: T.J.

After you fix the vacuumed problems, be sure to go though ALL your electrical connectors under the hood (and the car) one at a time. 9 times out of 10 an electrical problem can be traced back to corrosion inside the connector. Use a pocketknife, rat-tail file, and/or rolled up sand paper to scrape it clean. On the connectors that look like they are taking on water, seal them shut with some GE silicone sealer. Here in the NYS (the salt-belt) I've done that with all my vehicles and have stopped almost all of the electrical problems. Also, be sure to check and ground wires that go to the body. Rust loves to get under these exposed bolts & screws. Just scrape it clean and put a little conductive grease underneath and reassemble. T.J.

Or you just do the old redneck fix and... * wash it down with lacquer thinner * wipe it clean with your t-shirt * smear it with grease * and wrap it up in duct tape! Probably be good for another 1000 miles! T.J.

UPDATE Well... I returned the noisy Cherry Bomb and got a 2" universal fit that is an oval shape. It took a bit of welding and fiddeling, but now It tucks up under the body nicely and even gives the Suba-Roo exhaust more gound clearance. I have even noticed that it has a mild "deep" tone and a little better throttle response. T.J.

Thanks for the tip! Any feedback on a larger OEM? T.J.

What about using an OEM for a larger vehicle that is the same dimensions. Will it have better flow through? Will it be quieter? T.J.

Hi All, I just installed a "Cherry Bomb Turbo II" muffler into my 92 Loyale. Maybe I'm getting old or something but... Geeezzz! It's really frekin' loud! It sounds worse than when it had a hole in the muffler! :temper: The worst part is the harmonic vibration. At 4200 rpms the entire car developes an annoying, really loud, Buzzing sound! Long ago I had a DynoMax turbo muffler on my old V6 Isuzu Trooper but I don't remember it ever being that loud or annoying. Is there any specific "brand" that is quieter than the other? T.J.

T.J.'s Painting Tips... After the typical rust fixing, fiberglass, and body filler stuff... Get some 1/4" painter’s masking tape (not the low-tack junk) and mask off the edges of all the areas to be painted. You can follow the contours of the wheel arches and create the smooth curves if you take your time. Next, use regular masking tape, ½ overlap the ¼” tape and cover most of the car with newspaper. Lightly sand the surfaces then prime it with an "adhesion promoter” spray in a can, which helps the top-coat of paint stick better. Use the "truck bed liner in a can" spray. Do 3 coats to slowly build up the surface texture so it is about 2/16" thick. When it is all dry (over night) finished the edges with 1/8" black pin striping to overlap where the black meets the white. It gives it a crisp edge and professional look. T.J. :santa:

Nope... no rust. I fixed it all. Waterproof Marine Grade Fiberglass