forester2002s

The first item Rear Wheel Bearing @ $377 seems reasonable. But the other 2 items seem grossly inflated. But I'm only a shade-tree mechanic. Others will have a better take on these items.

I've found that an oil change often gets rid of 'tappet tick'.

Could be that the clutch is failing for some reason. Perhaps it's engaging at start-up, and then starts slipping/overheating? Two options: 1. adjust the clutch (search on this forum for previous posts); or 2. get another compressor (perhaps a used one from a bone-yard).

AC light on usually means charge is OK. Does the clutch spin at startup, and then stop spinning after 3-minutes?

Maybe the compressor clutch is disengaging after 3-minutes. Can you see if the compressor is turning (not the pulley, which turns all the time, but the clutch-plate in the center)? And does the AC indicator-light stay on?

Sound like you don't have a full 12V supplying the unit(s). Try temporarily connecting a (measured) 12V to the unit, before installing it in the car.

If buying online, and there's no mention of Manufacturer's name, DON'T BUY.

Yes, fix both. But not at the same time, please. Otherwise, you (and the rest of us) will never know what caused the problem.

Foreign object stuck between brake-rotor and splash-guard?

Yes, a ground-issue is definitely a possibility. You could start by removing each bulb in turn, and seeing if the symptoms change.

My money would be on wheel-bearings.

Get it up to speed on the highway, where the vibration is very noticeable, then: - ease off throttle and decelerate - any change? - accelerate gently - any change? - accelerate hard - any change? - brake gently - any change?

Or, use a 'Turkey Baster': https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN62P8Y/ref=dp_cerb_1

Subaru heat shields are notorious for rattling. And your symptoms (low RPMs, light-load, decelerating) seem to point at heat shields. BUT, heat shield will also rattle with the car stationary. And the rattling can be quite loud when the engine is started. If you cannot create the rattle at zero speed, then it is most likely not the heat shields.

The knock-sensor 'listens' for pre'-ignition. Without reading all previous posts, did you replace the knock-sensor? It's a cheap item.

My 2002 Forester uses tiny incandescent micro-bulbs #7219 (each fitted into a small plastic screw-in fitting). Radio Shack used to carry these as #272-1092 (is Radio Shack still in business?) #7219 micro-bulbs are also available on eBay and Amazon.

Knock-sensor failing? (although this would usually set a P0328 CEL)

I've heard that cross-country travellers, like truck drivers, love satellite radio. They can listen to the same radio station all day, even as they get out of range of terrestrial stations.

On new cars, Subaru might include a free short-term subscription to Sirius. E.G. only 6-months. After that you have to pay.

I admit that this is unlikely, but: - Does this 2010 model have the 'Eyesight' function? - And could the 'Eyesight' be applying the brakes, thinking that a collision was imminent?

Thanks for this great tip! I too have lost lots of little miscellaneous bits and bobs all over the place.

The last 3 digits of a Subaru part number indicate revisions to the part. The higher number, the latest revision.

Replacement wiper-blade refills seem to have disappeared from the face of the earth. Too bad.

I also have a 2002 Forester with the EJ2.5 engine; in that car I change the oil (dyno) at about 3,000-5,000km. I've had that car since new with very few problems (I changed the headgaskets at 226,000km using 11044AA642 MLS gaskets). The car is now burning a little oil between changes. However in the 2017 Forester, I use full-synthetic oil. That's why I go about 8,000km between changes (recommended is 10,000km). And as I said above, it consumes virtually no oil.

I have a 2017 Forester with the FB2.5 engine. I change the oil about every 8,000km. The oil level on the dipstick stays at the 'Full' mark all the time (measured when cold).