forester2002s

Try these 2 easy fixes before assuming that it's a head-gasket leak: - Tighten all clamps on the coolant-hoses (if they are adjustable). - Install a new (Subaru OEM) PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. On the EJ25 engine, the head-gasket typically leaks oil and/or coolant to the exterior of the engine. And the favored spot to see this leak is on the left-side (driver's side in US) head, near the rear of the engine and underneath. You have to get underneath the car. You're looking for the joint between the block and the head (not the joint between the head and the rocker-cover, although that might also leak). If the head-gasket is leaking, you'll see oil seeping out of that joint. If the oil-consumption is manageable, replacing the head-gasket is not urgent (but still desirable).

Does the rear wiper work? On some Subarus, the same fuse powers both front and rear wipers.

When I learnt to drive, almost 60 years ago, I was taught to slow down using the gears. The theory was that you were always in control, and always in the correct gear to accelerate if need be. After many years of driving manuals, I've changed my habits. I now use the brakes for slowing down, and then shift down when the vehicle-speed has already slowed. It still keeps me in a suitable gear, but it saves clutch-wear. Brakes are easy and cheap to replace. Clutches are time-consuming and expensive to replace. And yes, you may need to know how to drive a manual, if you travel the world.

This article (from Consumer Reports) may be of interest. It is 6-years old, but the science is still valid. https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/plus-size-tires-when-more-is-less/index.htm

I wonder if the built-in 'fuse' is actually a heat-sensing 'thermistor'?

I can't help with your actual dash, but I can steer you to Amazon.co.uk Recently I was looking for a door window-switch for a friend's car (RHD, but not a Subaru). I could not find the correct RHD part on Amazon.com (the US site, and the biggest selection of items for sale). So on a whim, I searched on Amazon.co.uk instead (the UK has RHD cars). Lo and behold, I found the exact part that I was looking for, and the seller could also ship overseas. It's worth a try. EDIT: I just looked back in my files, and I misled you. It wasn't Amazon.co.uk where I found the RHD part, it was eBay.co.uk , but the same suggestion applies.

When overnight snow/ice freezes the rubber wiper-blades to the glass, they can get damaged when the wiper mechanism tears them away from their frozen home. Spraying the washer-fluid first, allows the snow/ice to melt before the wiper-blades move.

The Subaru Factory Service Manual (2002 Forester) has a section dealing with reinstalling the Cylinder Head Bolts. It reads: 'Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads' I have always followed that, and never had any problem.

Too many red flags... I would walk away.

Unloading the suspension makes no difference to the engine mounts; the weight of the engine is still on them. If you can get underneath, with the car 'up in the air', you should be able to visually inspect the engine-mounts from below.

Engine mount(s) failed?

Not sure what you've skipped. Subaru head-bolts are NOT torque-to-yield. that's why you can reuse them. I've always followed the complete torqueing sequence when installing new head-gaskets.

http://www.armorall.com/products/trim-plastic-restoration/outlast-trim-plastic-restorer. ?

This might be the EndWrench article that you refer to. WhBearRep.pdf

Ms.?, not Mr. Heartless, I believe.

I find that the ambient temperature gage is particularly useful as the outside temperature drops to near freezing. If the gage was out by several degrees, especially if it was reading high, the driver could be lulled into a false sense of security (ice wise). If for no other reason, I would expect that Subaru would want the gage to read reasonably accurately.

Take lots of photos before you disconnect anything. As you remove nuts and bolts, put them into containers (old yogurt containers, cut-off plastic bottles, children's snack containers etc). And in each container put a small piece of paper, with a brief description, e.g. 'starter-motor bolts', 'valve-cover bolts' etc. If your engine is dirty/oily, I suggest doing an engine shampoo before you start.

A likely suspect would be your 'remanufactured' front axles. It could be that the joints on those axles have worn in a way that you hear the ticking sound when the axles are loaded, but not when the axles are unloaded.

Sounds similar to the old 'marble in the ash-tray' symptom.

Battery terminals/connections/wires ?

OK, I misread your earlier post, thinking that this happened after the store had completed changing all wheels. But if they found the bad stud at the beginning, then it may not have been their fault after all. But I am also very nervous of shop personnel wielding air-wrenches, set to who-knows-what torque.

Check all the other studs' threads !!

I've never done it, but I think that you can hammer each stud out, by hitting it in the threaded end. May have to be done off the car...

Just a thought... Is the buzzer working? Try 12V across the buzzer (if you can find it!)

Sounds like a problem with the starter Could be as simple as worn-out starter-contacts. They are replaceable. Or you might need a replacement starter assembly. Subaru OEM from a scrap-yard might work well.