forester2002s

And the other factor when towing, is SPEED. Go up a hill FAST, and the engine is putting out a lot of energy, and is more likely to overheat. Go up a hill SLOWLY, and the engine is not working as hard, and will generate less waste heat, and is less likely to overheat.

Fuel-filter blocked?

I installed the 11044AA770 'Turbo Gasket' in my 2002 Forester EJ251 NA (Non-turbo) engine. It seals absolutely tight, without a hint of leakage.

There's also a single (black?) wire, with a small (black?) connector on top of the AC compressor, which sends 12V to the clutch. You could try disconnecting the connector, and seeing if there is 12V on that incoming wire, when the system calls for the clutch to be engaged.

Sound like head-gasket leak. The most likely place for a leak is on the left-side (looking forward) of the engine. Look under the head, and towards the rear. You may need a mirror and light to see properly. The head-gasket typically starts leaking there; you may find oil-drips and/or coolant-drips.

It depends on where the lost oil is going. If it's leaking externally (dripping, seeping, dirty engine-block etc,), then you could fix the leaks and the oil loss might drop to near zero. If i's actually burning oil, then it's anybody's guess, but will probably get worse as the car ages.

Oh I get it. You moved the Original Post INTO this forum. I misread it to think that you were moving the post away from here to somewhere else. Thanks for the clarification.

Which is the right forum for a 2014 Impreza?

Theoretically, that plastic shield may also help reduce fuel consumption a little, by smoothing out the air-flow at high speeds. In practice though, this improvement may be miniscule, especially for city driving.

Try a Drain/Flush/Refill for the power-steering fluid. There should be a procedure for this in the FSManual. It involves draining the fluid through one of the lower hydraulic fittings, and refilling. There's a procedure for removing air from the system, which effectively flushes the system as well. I did this a few years ago on my 2002 Forester. I couldn't believe how black and gunky the drained fluid was.

My 2002 MT Forester has never held brake vacuum for very long after the engine is shut off. I've always considered it normal (I bought the car new). The driveway in front of my garage has a slight downward slope. So, when I activate the remote to open the garage door, I turn off the ignition and put the car in Neutral. As I coast slowly into the garage, I can feel the vacuum dying. By the time that the car comes to rest, there's no brake-assist left. Why do I do this? Mainly so I don't introduce too many exhaust-fumes into the garage. But it also reminds me of the fictional character 'Garp' in the novel (+1982 movie) 'The World according to Garp'. Garp (played by Robin Williams) rolls his car like this into his garage, mainly to amuse his kids. But one day there were unexpected consequences! You'll have to read the book, or see the movie, to find out what happened.

Heartless, I'm also getting a bit 'long in the tooth'. I rely of a set of knee-pads when working in the shop (and in the garden too). They make a huge difference for me. Wouldn't be without them.

Yes, the bolts protrude downwards through the roof, with nuts located behind the roof-liner. Sometimes just tightening the nuts will fix a leak. Otherwise, use some silicone-seal around the mounting holes before reassembling the bolts and nuts. Search on this forum for how to remove the roof-liner. It's somewhat time consuming...

Try an oil and filter change. Perhaps with a slightly thinner oil. This might dislodge any blocked oil passages.

Are the battery clamps tight? Tap the clamps lightly with a small hammer. Can sometimes help restore a flakey connection.

I have run my 2002 Forester for 40km (25miles) with the Low-Fuel Lamp on, before filling up. Never ran it dry though.

And if my memory serves correct, that hatch-switch is a liquid-mercury type, that senses hatch-orientation, and not the physical condition of the latch. Or am I thinking of another vehicle?

Yes, I got it backwards. But anyway, you should have either 0V or 12V across the bulb terminals.

Seems odd. With all doors closed, and dome-switch OFF, there should not be any 12V to the dome-bulb. I wonder if one of the door-switches (or the dome-switch) is playing up, and not 'opening' fully, but is still maintaining slight contact? You could try measuring DC voltage at the dome-bulb. You should get 12V with a door open, and 0V with all doors closed.

What year is your Legacy? This site might help with your misbehaving alarm: www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

Wheel-bearing noise/rumble sometimes changes when turning corners. Give it a try...

I Googled this question about Stop/Start, and found several sites with answers. The one answer about Subarus suggested that there's a connector under the dash that can be disconnected to disable the function (although one of the comments said that it didn't work for his Subaru). Another answer (non-Subuaru) was a YouTube video of how to disable from the on-screen settings. And another answer (also non-Subaru) said that the Stop/Start is disabled automatically when towing, so the ECU could be fooled by the use of a resistor across the trailer connector.

Both of my 2002 key-fobs died a natural death, and fresh batteries didn't help. I replaced both with used fobs from eBay. They both work fine. If buying from eBay, read the item descriptions carefully, as some listings are for the fob CASES only.

My old AC compressor was seized, and eating drive-belts. Found a used one on www.car-part.com and went to pick it up from a local junk-yard. It came with a 3-month warranty, so I wasn't too worried about the condition. But it worked just fine.

Does the passenger-seat have a sensor that could be activating the chime? If that sensor is faulty, it might think that your non-existent passenger hasn't buckled their seat-belt.