forester2002s

Thanks for this. Where do I find that PCB? And would it work on a 2017 Forester?

+1 on alternator diodes being faulty.

Add a suitable fuse in series? Just in case there's a short somewhere.

What happens to the squeak if you apply the brake gently whilst reversing?

Can you tell whether the crack is on the outside or inside of the (laminated) glass? If on the inside, then it wouldn't have been caused by an external flying object.

2. Take it to an Auto-Glass shop, & ask for advice.

Take it back to the dealer. Sounds like a manufacturing defect.

My guess is that the ignition-key is not the problem. More likely a starter problem. A sharp tap on the starter with a small hammer will sometimes help. But this needs 2 people: one to hold the ignition key on 'START', and the other person with the hammer.

What happens when you turn the ignition key to 'ON'? Do all the warning lamps on the speedo-display light up?

Could this be a problem with the starter-motor or solenoid (contacts need replacing)?

PCV Valve: Stuck? Blocked:

'There's more than one way to skin a cat.' Can we leave it at that?

I've had this problem, but mostly with night-time vision. The problem with my windshield (original equipment from 2002) was the many tiny pits caused by sand and road-grit over many years. Full price for a replacement windshield was beyond my budget. However I was recently 'lucky' enough to get the windshield hit by a flying stone. This caused a decent size chip in the glass, right in the driver's field of vision. My insurance covered a replacement windshield (minus my insurance deductible). I can see clearly now...

You say that the original tires are labelled 'M+S'. So they are 'All-Seasons', and would therefore have a slightly more aggressive tread pattern. You could replace them with a NON M+S tire, which should be quieter and smoother. But those would not be suitable for winter/snow conditions (I see that you are in Boston MA). So you would also need snow-tires for the winter months, and run the smoother tires in the summer.

And the shoe-linings can separate (get unglued) from the shoes, after many years. Best to take the brake disk/drum off and inspect the linings.

+1 on battery terminals. I had a similar experience recently, when the instrument-panel gauges started to go wonky. Then engine-power started surging. Then the car died at some traffic-lights. A good samaritan helped me jump-start the car and I was off. It started on its own a couple of times after that, then died again. I found the problem: it was the +ve battery-terminal. It was an aftermarket terminal with a wing-nut for attaching the +ve leads. The battery-clamp was tight, but the wing-nut was loose. So, if I had tested the battery, it would have been OK; ditto for the alternator. The problem was an intermittent fault in the wing-nut connection to the +ve leads. So, check your battery clamps, and wiggle the 12V battery leads.

Your description doesn't match with 'pinging' AKA 'detonation'. It's more likely a mechanical sound. Perhaps from the camshafts? If this was my car, the first thing that I would do is an oil and filter change. Might fix it.

No, all Canadian Subarus get km/h and Celcius displays.

Good post, GD. IIRC, torque tables in machinist's handbooks are for NEW & DRY threads. Add some lube (even just a bit of oily residue), and it will be easier to turn the nut, and the bolt will stretch more, and get closer to failure. Assembling threads using torque values is always problematic. Better to use crush-washers that are designed to measure the actual stretch of a bolt; but not practical for most applications.

That's common to many displays. It's a feature of polarized lenses. You trade the lack of glare from the road and surroundings, for a degraded view of the interior displays. There's no solution except not to use polarized glasses.

I've been using Walmart's own brand of oil for years, ever since Walmart came to town. I've never had an oil-related problem with any of my cars. However, I do frequent oil & filter changes; at least as frequently as recommended, and usually more frequently than that. Just make sure that it has the API 'sunburst' logo, and is the correct viscosity.

Those (small) brake-shoes for the parking-brake last a long time. After all, they don't see much wear as they are normally set when the vehicle is stationary. But over time, the brake-linings can separate (get unglued) from the steel shoe. Never had one lock-up the wheel though.

Those voltage readings look OK, and would suggest no problems with the alternator, nor with the battery. However, could your problem be with the connections between the battery-posts & the battery-clamps? The -ve post seems to always be the one to corrode the worst, and may cause a high-resistance joint. And this could be intermittent. Try this: With the engine running, measure the voltage between the battery-post and the battery-clamp. Should be 0V. Then wiggle the battery-clamp and attached cable. Does the voltage remain steady at 0V? You could also repeat this test by measuring resistance ohms, but first disconnect the other battery-clamp to avoid frying your meter.

Generally speaking, the crush-washers can be re-used several times. If the plug shows no sign of leakage, I wouldn't worry about it.

Could be some debris in the heater-fan. Perhaps a dried leaf hitting the vanes of the fan-cage?