forester2002s

Have you tried rotating the brightness adjustment ring? It's probably located on the same switch-stalk as the headlight-switch. That adjustment ring allows you to vary the panel lights from zero to 100%. Maybe a flakey contact?

or leave the antenna extended?

My first-aid kit includes a roll of 1"-wide white adhesive-tape. I've used the tape as a temporary fix on split hoses. Doesn't seal completely, but it has got me out of trouble.

I saw this recall on the TV news the other night. The story about the 2016 Legacy recall aired just before a commercial break. A few seconds later, the first ad came on the TV; guess what? it was an ad extolling the virtues of the 2016 Legacy. Talk about bad timing!

I have read about a technique used to dry out wet cell phones etc. Apparently, if you put the item in a sealed plastic bag with uncooked rice, it will dry out. The rice is hydroscopic, and will absorb the moisture. I've never tried this myself, so I don't know if it really works. It might just be one of those urban myths.

Are you actually losing power-steering fluid? Or are you losing engine-oil? These questions are relevant, because (for some engine models) a leaking head-gasket can cause engine-oil to drip down and accumulate on that small gearbox at the bottom-end of the steering wheel. What year/model/engine do you have? Check for a head-gasket leak at the lower-rear corner of the head (on the steering-wheel side). If that location is wet with oil, then it may be that your supposed steering-oil leak is actually from the engine above. Just a thought.

I wonder if the remote fob is faulty. What happens if you take the battery out of the fob? Do you still get rogue locking?

Do you have a lock/unlock door switch (usually found on the inside of the driver's door, with the window switches)? If so, activating that switch, and then closing the doors, might just do what you want.

I think that the problem is with the design of the dipstick. I've always had problems getting an accurate reading of oil-level on my 2002 Forester. What I have found is: - I have to prep the dipstick each time by wiping it completely dry. - Cannot get consistent reading when engine is warm. - Cannot get consistent reading until engine has been off for several hours. - Best reading is in mornings, with engine cold. - Even then, I sometimes take a couple of readings, each with a dry dipstick. I have never had any problems reading oil-level on my many other cars, only on this Forester.

My 2002 Forester came from the factory with the filter-box in place, but with no filters installed. The filter-box is black plastic, located under and behind (forward) of the glove-box. The filter-box has a rectangular access-door on its lower side, held in place by 2 steel clips. It's not the easiest to get to, but if you have one, it should be obvious.

I doubt if it's anything special. Probably just a regular-grade metric bolt. You just need to find one of the correct length. Any auto-parts store should have one.

How to undo the nut on the end of the piston rod? You'll need a 'go-thru-socket', similar to one in this set from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/21-pc-sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-62305.html These sockets are turned by a special wrench which fits on the outside-surface of the socket. That allows you to insert the allen-key into the top of the piston-rod. I also puzzled over this a couple of years ago, but a forum member came to my rescue.

+2 to WoodsWagon

How long since the fuel-filter was changed?

Sometimes a hex-head (Allen key), of suitable size, will work instead of the proper Torx tool. But if you try this, don't exert too much torque, for fear of damaging the Torx hole.

I've always used Walmart 80W90 when changing gear-oil in my 2002 Forester. And I've had no problems with the transmission. Smooth gear-changes etc. Had the car since new, now at 236,000 km.

Nipper: Glad to see you back on the forum!

www.1stsubaruparts.com Located on the premises of Hanson Subaru, Olympia WA, but offer discount prices. Only used them once (happened to be in the area, and picked up my parts in person), and was happy with their service.

Is the noise the same in different gears? For instance, you are in 4th gear and hearing the noise. What happens if you change to 3rd gear? Or vice-versa. Another way of phrasing this question is to ask: Is the noise related to engine-speed, or road-speed?

Manual transmissions have a switch on the clutch-pedal, so that the starter-motor will not energize unless the pedal is fully dressed. Does your starter operate as normal with your foot on the clutch-pedal?

Have you tried jiggling the headlamp-switch, to see if that either turns the headlights on or off? What I mean is: - if the lights are ON, does jiggling the switch turn them off? - if the lights turn OFF on their own, does jiggling the switch restore them back to on?

+1 on it being an internal leak in the brake master-cylinder. You have 2 options: 1. Put new seals in the master cylinder. You may be able to buy a kit for this, or 2. Buy a new master-cylinder. If this was my car, I would go with a new master-cylinder; it's quicker, and more likely to be successful, and only costs a few $$ more. Once it's done, it will probably never fail again in the life of the car.

This is an 8-year old thread! Started by then frequent-user 'Frag'. Where is Frag anyway? He used to post very regularly, and then just disappeared!

Suggest that you replace the radiator cap with a new one, preferably OEM. It sounds like you may have higher coolant-pressure than normal.

After undoing those components, you can jack the engine up (and twist it a bit) to give more clearance to get at the heads. DS means Driver Side. PS means passenger Side.