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Everything posted by forester2002s
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One extra check to make when test-driving: - check that all warning lamps work on the start-up sequence (all warning lamps should work when the ign.key is turned to start, but before the engine actually turns over). For example, the CEL or Oil-pressure lamps might not work. You'll need to be aware of that.
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It'll probably require a little bit of rewiring. On my 2002 Forester, I rewired the windows from the 'Run' circuit, to the 'Acc' circuit. Still need the key in, but don't need the engine running to open the windows. It helps to have proper wiring-diagrams to this kind of mod. EDIT: Just reread the question, and I see that the car doesn’t have a keyed ignition switch. So my comments don't apply.
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It could also be failed engine-mounts. When you give the engine some gas, the engine/transmission can physically move around a bit. This can be seen/heard when flooring the gas, either from a start or while on the move. What happens with the car in Drive, and all brakes on, if you give it some gas? Does the engine physically move up?
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I've said this before, but it's worth repeating: If you're changing a timing-belt, use a wax crayon to mark the old belt, and all gear-pulleys (idlers don't matter), and the timing-marks on the block. Then take photos of this setup. Do all of this BEFORE removing the old belt. Then proceed with installing the new belt.
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Subaru dipsticks are flakey. - Check the oil when the engine has sat for a long while , and is COLD (mornings work well for me. - Take the dipstick out and clean it (don't look at the oil level, it means little). - Insert the dipstick all the way, and withdraw. Check oil level on front-side and on back side. - If you can't get a clear reading, clean and repeat.
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Another way to test for a leaking master-cylinder: - Car on level-ground; - All brakes off; - Engine idling; - Clutch-pedal to the floor and hold it there; - Engage 1st gear; - Keep the pedal to the floor, & wait; - Wait some more; - If the car starts to move forward (pedal still to the floor), then the master-cylinder is leaking internally.
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First, check under the front carpet, to see if the wiring harness is already in place for heated-seats. If so, that makes your project much simpler. Then, I would search around for used heated-seats at junk-yards. You may find a wrecked car with almost new seats. Good luck. EDIT: Just reread the original post. You want to instal Power-seats, not Heated-seats. That's a 'different kettle of fish'.