forester2002s

My 2002 5MT Forester doesn't have a Neutral Safety Switch; just the Clutch-Pedal Switch. Isn't it Automatics that have the NSS?

+1 to check the clutch-pedal switch. If something gets under the pedal (carpet for instance?), this can physically stop the pedal going full-travel to the floor. Easy thing to check.

The over-pressure bypass valve has different settings for different filters. So two brands may look alike, but be different inside. 'Gold-colored' and price-level are no guarantee of quality, IMHO.

2016? Under warranty? Take it to the dealer.

Exhaust heat-shields rattling?

Yes, my bad. Torx is indeed 6-point. I just cannot visualize a 12-point bolt-head.

12-point bolts? Maybe you need a Torx socket.

Best place? = Subaru dealership. Most economical? = Junk-yard.

No matter what someone on this forum tells you, you're still going to need that tape-measure if you want to buy a physically larger battery.

A flashing CEL can mean that the system is in diagnostic-mode. There should be 2 green connectors under the steering-wheel. These 2 green connectors should be UNPLUGGED for normal driving.

Change the PCV Valve, and see if that makes a difference.

On my 2002, I have to push the lever DOWN for it to latch in. The UP position is for 'momentarily' flashing the high-beams.

You say that you have the heads ready to reinstall. Have you checked that you have the correct clearances between the valve-stems and the rockers/lifters? These clearances should be very small (see the FSM), but more than zero. Otherwise the valves will not seal completely.

One extra check to make when test-driving: - check that all warning lamps work on the start-up sequence (all warning lamps should work when the ign.key is turned to start, but before the engine actually turns over). For example, the CEL or Oil-pressure lamps might not work. You'll need to be aware of that.

How is your PCValve? If the PCV is not venting properly, pressure could build up and blow out seals etc.

Does the Mitzumo kit tell you the make of their Timing Belt? If the make is unknown, I wouldn't buy it. Stick with a Subaru OEM or a Gates Timing Belt.

No need to be apologetic. You're doing the work yourself, and learning from your mistakes. How many other drivers do that?

Could it be a flakey contact in the rheostat for the instrument panel-lights? Try turning the adjustment for the panel-lights (located on the headlamp stalk); that just may clear the problem.

+1 for snow-tires on steel rims. When the first snow-storm of the winter is coming, other people will be lining up at the tire store to get their tires mounted. You'll be able to change wheels yourself in no time.

If you have the fobs, why not just try to reprogram them? cars101.com will tell you how to do this.

It'll probably require a little bit of rewiring. On my 2002 Forester, I rewired the windows from the 'Run' circuit, to the 'Acc' circuit. Still need the key in, but don't need the engine running to open the windows. It helps to have proper wiring-diagrams to this kind of mod. EDIT: Just reread the question, and I see that the car doesn’t have a keyed ignition switch. So my comments don't apply.

I recall a post (or two) on this forum, about a year ago. Including a photo of an engine+trans coming out of a car. Try a search on the forum.

With the parking switch off, hold it in down with a short piece of sticky electricians' tape. Do that, and it will never happen again!

It could also be failed engine-mounts. When you give the engine some gas, the engine/transmission can physically move around a bit. This can be seen/heard when flooring the gas, either from a start or while on the move. What happens with the car in Drive, and all brakes on, if you give it some gas? Does the engine physically move up?

Have you tried replacing the batteries in the fob?