forester2002s

How to post pictures? - Go the box 'Reply to this topic'. - At bottom-right click on 'More Reply Options'. - At bottom left click on 'Choose Files...'

It may have something to do with alignment. A 2-piece drive-shaft with a u-joint allows for some misalignment between the transmission and rear diff. And so the flexibility of a u-joint puts less stress on the transmission and diff bearings. But there may be other reasons.

Give the battery-terminals a little tap with a hammer (or convenient rock). It just may be corrosion at the battery-terminals. One way to check for this is to turn on the headlights just before trying to start the car. If the headlights dim noticeably when you try to start, it may be corroded battery-terminals.

Same thing happened to me. I agree 100% - don't install an unbranded Timing-Belt on your Subaru. I installed an unbranded T-Belt from MizumoAuto, and after 39,000 miles, it had the same transverse cracks at each rib. I asked MizumoAuto to tell me which brand of belt this was. I only wanted to avoid buying another one like that. MizumoAuto failed to reply to my repeated attempts to contact them. See my earlier post (with photo of the cracked belt): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154398-timing-belt-best-buy/ One way around this it to buy a cheap kit (with all the idlers and water-pump), and throw away the unbranded belt. Then buy a good belt separately, e.g. Gates or OEM. Or just buy a more expensive kit, with a better belt.

What happens when you try to start the car? Does the starter crank the engine? Or is just quiet? Is there a 'click' from the starter, and nothing else. Or does the engine crank, but not start?

Manual or Automatic? If Manual, could be the Clutch-pedal Switch. If Automatic, could be the Neutral Safety-Switch.

Impressive work! I bet that you're looking forward to a good dump of snow...

My 2002 came from the factory with the Geolanders. I was happy with the tires, except that they wore out fast. They have a softer rubber than other tires, so give good road-grip, but faster wear. And they were quite good in light snow conditions. But since replacing the Geolanders, I now have 4 snow tires on dedicated rims, which I use from about Feb. to March. They also have a softer rubber composition, so have good grip in colder temperatures and on icy roads. The rest of the year I use 'normal' tires on the stock mag rims. I get tires that are good in rain, and with good wear predictions.

Maybe it's your choice of music.....

Emily, Yes, 'Left' and 'Right' are always facing forward. But the 'driver's side, and 'passenger's side' depend on whether the car is LHD (Left-Hand Drive) or RHD (Right-Hand Drive). So what might be correct in the Americas, would be the opposite in Britain/Australia/NZ etc, So, lets just call it 'Left-side' and 'Right-side, facing forward.

My 2002 5MT Forester doesn't have a Neutral Safety Switch; just the Clutch-Pedal Switch. Isn't it Automatics that have the NSS?

+1 to check the clutch-pedal switch. If something gets under the pedal (carpet for instance?), this can physically stop the pedal going full-travel to the floor. Easy thing to check.

The over-pressure bypass valve has different settings for different filters. So two brands may look alike, but be different inside. 'Gold-colored' and price-level are no guarantee of quality, IMHO.

2016? Under warranty? Take it to the dealer.

Exhaust heat-shields rattling?

Yes, my bad. Torx is indeed 6-point. I just cannot visualize a 12-point bolt-head.

12-point bolts? Maybe you need a Torx socket.

Best place? = Subaru dealership. Most economical? = Junk-yard.

No matter what someone on this forum tells you, you're still going to need that tape-measure if you want to buy a physically larger battery.

A flashing CEL can mean that the system is in diagnostic-mode. There should be 2 green connectors under the steering-wheel. These 2 green connectors should be UNPLUGGED for normal driving.

Change the PCV Valve, and see if that makes a difference.

On my 2002, I have to push the lever DOWN for it to latch in. The UP position is for 'momentarily' flashing the high-beams.

You say that you have the heads ready to reinstall. Have you checked that you have the correct clearances between the valve-stems and the rockers/lifters? These clearances should be very small (see the FSM), but more than zero. Otherwise the valves will not seal completely.

One extra check to make when test-driving: - check that all warning lamps work on the start-up sequence (all warning lamps should work when the ign.key is turned to start, but before the engine actually turns over). For example, the CEL or Oil-pressure lamps might not work. You'll need to be aware of that.

How is your PCValve? If the PCV is not venting properly, pressure could build up and blow out seals etc.