forester2002s

What year? What model? And are these single-row ball-bearings? Or double-row tapered? This info would help with diagnosis.

Licence-plate bulb-holder?

First, check under the front carpet, to see if the wiring harness is already in place for heated-seats. If so, that makes your project much simpler. Then, I would search around for used heated-seats at junk-yards. You may find a wrecked car with almost new seats. Good luck. EDIT: Just reread the original post. You want to instal Power-seats, not Heated-seats. That's a 'different kettle of fish'.

It's probably an exhaust heat-shield rattling. These rattles can be hard to diagnose, and hard to eliminate.

+1 for the Magnetic Pickup Tool. I got one of these at a 'dollar store' a few years ago. I use it all the time!

There's nothing wrong with putting a Class II hitch on a Subaru, in place of the Class I hitch recommended. However, this doesn't change the towing capacity of the vehicle. All it means is that the hitch has a stronger and heavier steel-frame, and is perhaps bolted to the car more securely.

I have a Factory Service Manual for 2002 Foresters. There is a procedure for replacing the steering boots. It requires removing the tie-rod end from the knuckle-arm. And then unscrewing the outer-end from the tie-rod (taking extra care to note the screwed-length, as this affect the alignment). The boot can then be slid over the tie-rod, and replaced; and the tie-rod end is then reassembled. Note: This boot-replacement procedure is written up as part of overhaul of the steering-box, and (I think) presumes that this is done 'on the bench'. But I don't see why the boots couldn't also be replaced in-situ, provided that there is sufficient clearance to access the tie-rods (this may mean removing the front exhaust-pipe). See pages PS-30 & PS-31 of attached PDF. PS20 Steering Gearbox.pdf

I've used similar engine degreasers with good results. But I never do it on my driveway. I don't want to risk the chemicals eating away at the asphalt.

Try eBay. They have loads of these 'retainer tabs' available. Mostly from China, so quite cheap. But shipping takes a long time.

I f you are adding a relay to power the starter, you'll need a relay that can carry the high amps that the starter can draw. Not sure how many, but I would guess several 100s of Amps.

I bought a MizumoAuto kit (no-name belt + idlers etc + Aisin water-pump). After 39,000 miles, the no-name belt had transverse cracks on the flat side, opposite each tooth. Quite unsatisfactory. I've asked MizumoAuto for the manufacturer's name for that belt, but no reply. The OEM Subaru belt, that I replaced at 101,000 miles, looked like new.

+1 on using the Sears Bolt-Out set. I also got this for Christmas or a birthday years ago. I've only used it twice, but I was very glad to have it at the time. Mine is labelled Craftsman 9-32161, but www.sears.com have some newer sets: Just search for 'Bolt Out". I used one recently on a 14mm engine-mount nut. Same thing, I wrecked it with a 12-point socket. The 13mm Bolt-Out wouldn't fit. But I was desperate, so I hammered the 13mm Bolt-Out on to the 14mm nut, and it gripped OK, and the nut came off. Easy Peasy.

If the tailgate-hinge is bolted on using shims, then make sure to have some extra shims on hand. That would help to get the new tailgate aligned properly.

Classic sign of an internal leak in the master-cylinder: - Car in Neutral on flat-ground; engine idling; - Press and hold the brake pedal, with a steady foot. If the brake pedal slowly goes down to the floor, then you have an internal leak in the master-cylinder (brake-fluid leaking past the piston seals, from the high-pressure side, to the low-pressure side). You might be able to fix this with a seal-kit, but it is normally easier and more permanent to change out the whole cylinder.

Maybe the clutch is not disengaging properly. With the engine off, it may still be possible to change gears, even without depressing the clutch. What happens if you have the engine off, and with the car in 1st gear, the clutch pedal is depressed, and the engine is then started? Does the car lurch forward? Or can you pull away normally by slowly releasing the clutch pedal?

You say: "Not allowing the starter motor to engage". Does this mean that: - the starter motor spins, but will not engage the flywheel? or - there is an audible 'click' from the starter solenoid, but the starter does not spin? or - there is no sound at all from the starter motor?

Just to add another option, you could use different oils summer and winter: - Summer 10W30 - Winter (if in a very cold climate) 0W20

Check the battery terminal connections. Sometimes they can get corroded, and a light tap with a hammer or small rock will make a temporary fix.

On my 2002 Forester, each seat-heater also has two connectors. One connector is for the heaters. And the other is connected to the heater-relay. I think that you can safely disconnect both connectors without a problem. But I'm betting that if you disconnect the relay connector (white on my vehicle), then the heat will go away. If so the problem is probably with a faulty heater-relay.

I have used eBay Knock Sensors (from China), for less than $15 incl. shipping. They work just fine; the only problem is that they take a few weeks to arrive. They're so cheap, that I ordered a spare to keep on hand (but I've never needed it). If I remember correctly, I was quoted over $100 by a Subaru dealer for the OEM Subaru part.

Does that display reading of 52.8 mpg agree with how much gas you pumped in, and the total distance travelled?

Does it click with the car stationary and in neutral? How about when stationary, but in gear and trying to drive against the foot-brake?

Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.

I'll post a copy of the relevant 2 PDFs from the FSM (Factory Service Manual) (for a 2002 Forester). This details how to flush out the pipes. How do I post PDF images? Can anyone point me in the right direction? EDIT: Maybe the 'Attach Files' feature will work... PS54 Power Steering Fluid.pdf

"Was it black?" It was the original Subaru fill from new in 2002. It was actually red, but with loads of 'black' suspended solids; so that in a glass jar, it looked almost black, but with a red tinge to the base oil.