forester2002s

Change the PCV Valve, and see if that makes a difference.

On my 2002, I have to push the lever DOWN for it to latch in. The UP position is for 'momentarily' flashing the high-beams.

You say that you have the heads ready to reinstall. Have you checked that you have the correct clearances between the valve-stems and the rockers/lifters? These clearances should be very small (see the FSM), but more than zero. Otherwise the valves will not seal completely.

One extra check to make when test-driving: - check that all warning lamps work on the start-up sequence (all warning lamps should work when the ign.key is turned to start, but before the engine actually turns over). For example, the CEL or Oil-pressure lamps might not work. You'll need to be aware of that.

How is your PCValve? If the PCV is not venting properly, pressure could build up and blow out seals etc.

Does the Mitzumo kit tell you the make of their Timing Belt? If the make is unknown, I wouldn't buy it. Stick with a Subaru OEM or a Gates Timing Belt.

No need to be apologetic. You're doing the work yourself, and learning from your mistakes. How many other drivers do that?

Could it be a flakey contact in the rheostat for the instrument panel-lights? Try turning the adjustment for the panel-lights (located on the headlamp stalk); that just may clear the problem.

+1 for snow-tires on steel rims. When the first snow-storm of the winter is coming, other people will be lining up at the tire store to get their tires mounted. You'll be able to change wheels yourself in no time.

If you have the fobs, why not just try to reprogram them? cars101.com will tell you how to do this.

It'll probably require a little bit of rewiring. On my 2002 Forester, I rewired the windows from the 'Run' circuit, to the 'Acc' circuit. Still need the key in, but don't need the engine running to open the windows. It helps to have proper wiring-diagrams to this kind of mod. EDIT: Just reread the question, and I see that the car doesn’t have a keyed ignition switch. So my comments don't apply.

I recall a post (or two) on this forum, about a year ago. Including a photo of an engine+trans coming out of a car. Try a search on the forum.

With the parking switch off, hold it in down with a short piece of sticky electricians' tape. Do that, and it will never happen again!

It could also be failed engine-mounts. When you give the engine some gas, the engine/transmission can physically move around a bit. This can be seen/heard when flooring the gas, either from a start or while on the move. What happens with the car in Drive, and all brakes on, if you give it some gas? Does the engine physically move up?

Have you tried replacing the batteries in the fob?

I've said this before, but it's worth repeating: If you're changing a timing-belt, use a wax crayon to mark the old belt, and all gear-pulleys (idlers don't matter), and the timing-marks on the block. Then take photos of this setup. Do all of this BEFORE removing the old belt. Then proceed with installing the new belt.

Subaru dipsticks are flakey. - Check the oil when the engine has sat for a long while , and is COLD (mornings work well for me. - Take the dipstick out and clean it (don't look at the oil level, it means little). - Insert the dipstick all the way, and withdraw. Check oil level on front-side and on back side. - If you can't get a clear reading, clean and repeat.

'Lower trans stuB'? I think it's a typo, Probably means 'Lower trans stuD'.

I have the same complaint about my 2002 Forester. Also looking for ideas...

Low speed wobble? Is this a physical wobbling of the steering wheel? Or is it more of an audible rumble?

Replace the fuse?

Sounds like your clutch may be slipping. Try giving it gas, but apply the brake gently at the same time, to stop the road-speed from increasing. If the engine RPM goes up, then the clutch is slipping, and needs replacing.

Another way to test for a leaking master-cylinder: - Car on level-ground; - All brakes off; - Engine idling; - Clutch-pedal to the floor and hold it there; - Engage 1st gear; - Keep the pedal to the floor, & wait; - Wait some more; - If the car starts to move forward (pedal still to the floor), then the master-cylinder is leaking internally.

I'm not familiar with the details of your car. But the axial pre-load on double taper bearings is usually set by tightening the axle nut.

What year? What model? And are these single-row ball-bearings? Or double-row tapered? This info would help with diagnosis.