forester2002s

I recall a post (or two) on this forum, about a year ago. Including a photo of an engine+trans coming out of a car. Try a search on the forum.

With the parking switch off, hold it in down with a short piece of sticky electricians' tape. Do that, and it will never happen again!

It could also be failed engine-mounts. When you give the engine some gas, the engine/transmission can physically move around a bit. This can be seen/heard when flooring the gas, either from a start or while on the move. What happens with the car in Drive, and all brakes on, if you give it some gas? Does the engine physically move up?

Have you tried replacing the batteries in the fob?

I've said this before, but it's worth repeating: If you're changing a timing-belt, use a wax crayon to mark the old belt, and all gear-pulleys (idlers don't matter), and the timing-marks on the block. Then take photos of this setup. Do all of this BEFORE removing the old belt. Then proceed with installing the new belt.

Subaru dipsticks are flakey. - Check the oil when the engine has sat for a long while , and is COLD (mornings work well for me. - Take the dipstick out and clean it (don't look at the oil level, it means little). - Insert the dipstick all the way, and withdraw. Check oil level on front-side and on back side. - If you can't get a clear reading, clean and repeat.

'Lower trans stuB'? I think it's a typo, Probably means 'Lower trans stuD'.

I have the same complaint about my 2002 Forester. Also looking for ideas...

Low speed wobble? Is this a physical wobbling of the steering wheel? Or is it more of an audible rumble?

Replace the fuse?

Sounds like your clutch may be slipping. Try giving it gas, but apply the brake gently at the same time, to stop the road-speed from increasing. If the engine RPM goes up, then the clutch is slipping, and needs replacing.

Another way to test for a leaking master-cylinder: - Car on level-ground; - All brakes off; - Engine idling; - Clutch-pedal to the floor and hold it there; - Engage 1st gear; - Keep the pedal to the floor, & wait; - Wait some more; - If the car starts to move forward (pedal still to the floor), then the master-cylinder is leaking internally.

I'm not familiar with the details of your car. But the axial pre-load on double taper bearings is usually set by tightening the axle nut.

What year? What model? And are these single-row ball-bearings? Or double-row tapered? This info would help with diagnosis.

Licence-plate bulb-holder?

First, check under the front carpet, to see if the wiring harness is already in place for heated-seats. If so, that makes your project much simpler. Then, I would search around for used heated-seats at junk-yards. You may find a wrecked car with almost new seats. Good luck. EDIT: Just reread the original post. You want to instal Power-seats, not Heated-seats. That's a 'different kettle of fish'.

It's probably an exhaust heat-shield rattling. These rattles can be hard to diagnose, and hard to eliminate.

+1 for the Magnetic Pickup Tool. I got one of these at a 'dollar store' a few years ago. I use it all the time!

There's nothing wrong with putting a Class II hitch on a Subaru, in place of the Class I hitch recommended. However, this doesn't change the towing capacity of the vehicle. All it means is that the hitch has a stronger and heavier steel-frame, and is perhaps bolted to the car more securely.

I have a Factory Service Manual for 2002 Foresters. There is a procedure for replacing the steering boots. It requires removing the tie-rod end from the knuckle-arm. And then unscrewing the outer-end from the tie-rod (taking extra care to note the screwed-length, as this affect the alignment). The boot can then be slid over the tie-rod, and replaced; and the tie-rod end is then reassembled. Note: This boot-replacement procedure is written up as part of overhaul of the steering-box, and (I think) presumes that this is done 'on the bench'. But I don't see why the boots couldn't also be replaced in-situ, provided that there is sufficient clearance to access the tie-rods (this may mean removing the front exhaust-pipe). See pages PS-30 & PS-31 of attached PDF. PS20 Steering Gearbox.pdf

I've used similar engine degreasers with good results. But I never do it on my driveway. I don't want to risk the chemicals eating away at the asphalt.

Try eBay. They have loads of these 'retainer tabs' available. Mostly from China, so quite cheap. But shipping takes a long time.

I f you are adding a relay to power the starter, you'll need a relay that can carry the high amps that the starter can draw. Not sure how many, but I would guess several 100s of Amps.

I bought a MizumoAuto kit (no-name belt + idlers etc + Aisin water-pump). After 39,000 miles, the no-name belt had transverse cracks on the flat side, opposite each tooth. Quite unsatisfactory. I've asked MizumoAuto for the manufacturer's name for that belt, but no reply. The OEM Subaru belt, that I replaced at 101,000 miles, looked like new.

+1 on using the Sears Bolt-Out set. I also got this for Christmas or a birthday years ago. I've only used it twice, but I was very glad to have it at the time. Mine is labelled Craftsman 9-32161, but www.sears.com have some newer sets: Just search for 'Bolt Out". I used one recently on a 14mm engine-mount nut. Same thing, I wrecked it with a 12-point socket. The 13mm Bolt-Out wouldn't fit. But I was desperate, so I hammered the 13mm Bolt-Out on to the 14mm nut, and it gripped OK, and the nut came off. Easy Peasy.