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Everything posted by forester2002s
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First, check under the front carpet, to see if the wiring harness is already in place for heated-seats. If so, that makes your project much simpler. Then, I would search around for used heated-seats at junk-yards. You may find a wrecked car with almost new seats. Good luck. EDIT: Just reread the original post. You want to instal Power-seats, not Heated-seats. That's a 'different kettle of fish'.
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I have a Factory Service Manual for 2002 Foresters. There is a procedure for replacing the steering boots. It requires removing the tie-rod end from the knuckle-arm. And then unscrewing the outer-end from the tie-rod (taking extra care to note the screwed-length, as this affect the alignment). The boot can then be slid over the tie-rod, and replaced; and the tie-rod end is then reassembled. Note: This boot-replacement procedure is written up as part of overhaul of the steering-box, and (I think) presumes that this is done 'on the bench'. But I don't see why the boots couldn't also be replaced in-situ, provided that there is sufficient clearance to access the tie-rods (this may mean removing the front exhaust-pipe). See pages PS-30 & PS-31 of attached PDF. PS20 Steering Gearbox.pdf
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I've used similar engine degreasers with good results. But I never do it on my driveway. I don't want to risk the chemicals eating away at the asphalt.
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I bought a MizumoAuto kit (no-name belt + idlers etc + Aisin water-pump). After 39,000 miles, the no-name belt had transverse cracks on the flat side, opposite each tooth. Quite unsatisfactory. I've asked MizumoAuto for the manufacturer's name for that belt, but no reply. The OEM Subaru belt, that I replaced at 101,000 miles, looked like new.
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+1 on using the Sears Bolt-Out set. I also got this for Christmas or a birthday years ago. I've only used it twice, but I was very glad to have it at the time. Mine is labelled Craftsman 9-32161, but www.sears.com have some newer sets: Just search for 'Bolt Out". I used one recently on a 14mm engine-mount nut. Same thing, I wrecked it with a 12-point socket. The 13mm Bolt-Out wouldn't fit. But I was desperate, so I hammered the 13mm Bolt-Out on to the 14mm nut, and it gripped OK, and the nut came off. Easy Peasy.
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Classic sign of an internal leak in the master-cylinder: - Car in Neutral on flat-ground; engine idling; - Press and hold the brake pedal, with a steady foot. If the brake pedal slowly goes down to the floor, then you have an internal leak in the master-cylinder (brake-fluid leaking past the piston seals, from the high-pressure side, to the low-pressure side). You might be able to fix this with a seal-kit, but it is normally easier and more permanent to change out the whole cylinder.
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Maybe the clutch is not disengaging properly. With the engine off, it may still be possible to change gears, even without depressing the clutch. What happens if you have the engine off, and with the car in 1st gear, the clutch pedal is depressed, and the engine is then started? Does the car lurch forward? Or can you pull away normally by slowly releasing the clutch pedal?
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On my 2002 Forester, each seat-heater also has two connectors. One connector is for the heaters. And the other is connected to the heater-relay. I think that you can safely disconnect both connectors without a problem. But I'm betting that if you disconnect the relay connector (white on my vehicle), then the heat will go away. If so the problem is probably with a faulty heater-relay.
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I have used eBay Knock Sensors (from China), for less than $15 incl. shipping. They work just fine; the only problem is that they take a few weeks to arrive. They're so cheap, that I ordered a spare to keep on hand (but I've never needed it). If I remember correctly, I was quoted over $100 by a Subaru dealer for the OEM Subaru part.
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Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.
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There's also a procedure in the FSM for flushing out the power-steering lines. I can't remember the details, but you first disconnect one side, low-down at the steering rack, and turn the wheels full-lock several times. Then repeat on the other side. When I did this on my 2002 Forester (no symptoms, just precautionary maintenance), I was amazed at how the drained fluid was dirty/black.