forester2002s

Those rattling heat-shield are sure a PIA. The biggest problem is actually locating the source of the rattle. I've tried hose-clamps, with some success. And I've tried stuffing material in between the heat-shields and the actual exhaust-pipes (I use clumps of St.St. pot-scourers, bought cheaply at a dollar-store). This works well for a while, especially once I've found the actual location of the rattle. But it's an ongoing battle (almost 10-years in my case). I've got the rattle cornered somewhat: the noise is only noticeable when cold, and goes completely away once the engine has warmed up. Others have suggested torching the shields off. But I haven't got to that point yet.

+1 for a Magnetic Pickup tool. And also for a small extendible Mirror. Both are available at Dollar Stores for cheap.

Blocked fuel filter?

Has anyone had any experience with Red-Angel A/C Stop-leak? http://store.gobluedevil.com/a-c-stop-leak-49496 My 2002 Forester has a minor leak somewhere in the A/C system, and I cannot locate it. On a fresh charge, the A/C works OK. But the system pressure gradually diminishes, until after about 24-h, the pressure is so low that the A/C clutch will no longer engage. The slow-leak started a year ago, after I took the engine out to replace the clutch; that required me to pull the A/C compressor out of the way over the side fender; and that caused the A/C hoses to bend sharply. But I've soaped all of the A/C components, and I cannot find the leak. And I've replaced the 2 banjo-bolt O-rings on the compressor itself. I'm looking at the Red-Angel additive, because it is compatible with R12 refrigerant, to which I have already converted. Any recommendations, or otherwise?

OK, I suggest that you test for 12V at the starter solenoid-coil. There should be a single light-gage wire that plugs into the side of the starter - NOT the heavy-gage wire for the starter windings. With the engine not running, unplug that light-gage wire. Test the voltage coming from the wiring harness into that plug, and compare to any engine ground: - depress the clutch-pedal to the floor, and hold it down. - with the ignition-key in OFF, ACC or RUN, voltage should be 0V. - with the ignition-key all the way over to START, voltage should be around 12V. IF SO, then the problem is with the starter. IF NOT, then the problem is 'upstream' of the starter.

You say that you've bench-tested the starter, and it was OK. Did that test include energizing the starter using the solenoid and its contacts?

It could be something as simple as corroded battery-clamps. Try removing both battery-clamps, and wire-brushing them clean before reinstalling. That would be a good starting point.

A loose gas cap will set code P0440 'Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction'.

Something to do with the dog??

I have the same problem - my hatch latch-switch doesn't activate the 'door-open' warning lamp. If you figure out how to get into the latch-mechanism easily, please let us know. Thanks.

I've had a look at the wiring diagrams for a 2002 Forester with Cruise-Control.. It's complicated! But here are some thoughts: There are at least 2 Fuses that can affect the CC: - Fuse No.16 (20A) feeds the 'Stop & Brake Switch', and indirectly the CC. - Fuse No.18 (15A) feeds the 'Ignition' circuits, including the CC-Module. The Black connector for the 'Stop & Brake Switch' ('B65' in the wiring diags.) feeds 4 wires: - #1 Red/Yellow & #4 Yellow/Green have a 'Normally-Closed' contact, and feed the CC-Module (as well as the CC-Switch indicator-lamp). - #2 Blue/Yellow & #3 White/Black have a 'Normally-Open' contact, and feed the Brake-Lights (as well as the CC-Module). The Blue connector for the 'Clutch Switch' ('B107' in the wiring diags.) feed 2 wires: - #1 Black/Red & #2 Blue/Orange have a 'Normally-Closed' contact (#1 goes to Ground; #2 goes to the CC-Module). I suggest that you check these switches for correct operation. I have all the Wiring Diagrams (downloaded years ago as PDF files). But I cannot attach files from my tablet.

Raising wheels off the ground, they will not spin freely. This is because of the rear differential and the viscous couplings in the AWD transmission. This is normal. Is your noise from the rear like a deep-throated rumble? More noticeable at high speeds that at slow speeds? If so, it is probably a rear-wheel bearing failing. Sometimes these can last for years without getting worse. You may be able to detect a slight looseness if you jack-up a wheel, and shake it from side to side and up and down. But that is not a conclusive test. Try this on all four wheels in turn (make sure that the parking brake is off). Do a search on this forum for 'wheel bearing'. There are lots of posts on this subject.

+1 on double-checking the bulbs. Have you tried switching the two bulbs from left to right? If the problem persists unchanged, then it's not the bulb. If, however, the bad low-beam switches to the other side, then it's the bulb.

Make marks on all of the toothed-pulleys, and on the engine block in line with these marks. And then make marks on the old timing-belt, at the toothed-pulley marks. And finally, take a photo of this set-up. Then mark the new timing-belt with marks to match the old belt. And away you go!

Could it be that the complete hatch itself is rattling? If so, wrap some electrical tape around the metal 'loop' that the latch mechanism locks on to.

The change in idle-speed with defrost/vent settings may be normal, and due to the AC compressor being engaged.

I once had an annoying slow leak on one tire that was difficult to find. This was probably not what happened to the OP, since that involved two sets of tires. But in my case, what I eventually discovered was a small bar-code label, that was accidently left stuck on to the tire's bead. At first, I couldn't find it. I had no facility to totally submerge the tire in a water bath - that's the best way to find a leak. So I tried hosing the wheel and tire with water, and checking for bubbles. At first nothing; and then about a year later, when I tried the hose again, I noticed a very small bubble forming at the rim-seal. Sure enough, when I deflated the tire, and broke the seal, there was the offending bar-code label (about 1cm x 4cm).

The diff could have been very low on oil. Low enough, that the remaining oil was not wetting the rotating parts. And that would have caused the diff to seize-up and 'explode'. And I can't see on the photo where the oil is actually leaking out; does the crack extend down near to the bottom of the case? And is that where the remaining oil is leaking out? As others have said, these diffs don't usually leak much oil, and can go for years without attention. But yours may be 'the exception that proves the rule'.

I would change, not just the engine oil, but the transmission and rear-diff oil as well. Cheap & easy to do.

I've used the 'Starter-Bump' method, for the crank-pulley bolt. Works first-time, every-time.

Just noticed that you posted this twice. Here's what I wrote in the other post: A bit of math: 1/4" tread-depth is 1/2" wear on diameter. And that is pi x 1/2" = about 1.5" on circumference. Definitely a mismatch!

A bit of math: 1/4" tread-depth is 1/2" wear on diameter. And that is pi x 1/2" = about 1.5" on circumference Definitely a mismatch!

The release lever may have cracked. It happens sometimes. If so, it means removing either the engine or gearbox for access.

The individual grid lines are arranged electrically in parallel. That means that each grid line has 12V across it. One line can break, and the others can still work. If nothing works, then the break is likely in the feed to all of the grid lines. Check for voltage in the wider vertical feed lines on the left and right. If you have an aftermarket film on the glass, you may still be able to check for voltage by piercing through the film with the sharp end of an electrical probe.

If the boots are the originals, why not replace them while you've got the axle out? Especially the inner-boot, since that is the one that often fails (due to heat from the nearby exhaust).