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Everything posted by forester2002s
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I have my snow-tires mounted on steel rims. The rims are supposedly for Subarus, but the centre hole is too large, so there is clearance to the hub. I have run these rims for about 10 years, without any problems whatsoever. PS I make sure to tighten the 5 wheel-nuts 'gently', alternating 1-3-5-2-4-1 etc., so as to make sure that the rim is centered correctly before the final torqueing-up.
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I have to admit that I'm a bit confused about the warped heads. Are the heads warped because: - the head-gaskets have failed, allowing some coolant seepage? or - the engine has overheated, causing the head to warp, which in turn caused the HGs to leak? i.e. which comes first, failed HGs or warped heads? Or to put it another way, does engine overheating have to be present for the HGs to fail?
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I share your confusion about buying parts for my Subaru. But who's to say, in your example above, that the $50 part will be any better than the $0.05 part? They might both be exactly the same part, from the same factory. Or the cheaper part might actually be better. Who knows? In the absence of any other info, I suggest that the cheaper price is the way to go. On the other hand, if there are some concrete data about the merits of the parts, then by all means use that to figure out which part might be the best. I've noticed the occasional anecdotal remark on the forum, about not wanting to buy 'Chinese' parts. My same logic applies. Unless I know something about the parts, why would the part made in China, be any different that one made in Japan, USA etc? I don't have any facts about the relative merits of a particular factory's ability to make quality goods. So, for me, low price is usually the determining factor.
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Congrats at finding the problem and fixing it. I wonder whether your brake rotors are warped a bit? That would explain the vibration with the frozen calipers. In that situation, the brake pads are trying to follow the waviness of the rotors, and they transmit a vibration into the steering knuckle. Whereas with free-moving calipers, the brake pads would be pushed back a bit by the movement of the rotor, and you wouldn't feel that vibration. Just a thought.
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When I replaced my timing belt (at about 102,000 miles), the rubber was pristine. The only visible deterioration was that the maker's name and inked-on timing marks had been worn off. Your photo looks pretty bad to me. All those surface cracks can let contaminants into the fabric inside the belt. I would change it ASAP.
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One of my switch-bulbs went dark a few months ago. So I bought a couple of Radio Shack replacements, and put the package in the glove box for the journey home. My car was so freaked-out at the thought of a non-OEM transplant, that the offending light promptly came back on, and has been trouble-free ever since. Best $1.99 that I ever spent.