forester2002s

I've used the repair kits a few times and they work. I think that they are a conductive type of epoxy-glue. My experience has been that you can usually see (use a magnifying glass if needed) where the break is. On some cars (not sure about Subarus), the heater lines are covered with a protective layer. So to read voltage, a sharp pointy probe works best. Just don't be too aggressive with the probe, otherwise you'll end up making another break.

What happens if, after leaving the car overnight, you get in but don't start the engine. Just turn the ignition to RUN, and turn on the heater fan. Any gasoline smell?

Each time that I change the coolant: - I drain the old coolant; - then I refill with water from the tap; - then I run the engine for enough time to warm it up; - finally I drain all that water out, and refill with the correct mixture (allowing for residual water trapped in the system).

Can you explain further?

And no mention of using Subaru OEM parts either!

I've just replaced the timing belt on my 2002 Forester (102,000 miles & 116 months). It was due at 105,000 miles & 105 months. So it was overdue on age. The old belt looked almost brand-new to me: No surface cracks visible; and the printed-on markings were still just visible on the back side, suggesting minimum wear.

There's always some fluid left in the system after draining. So don't expect to get the spec amount back in. If you've flushed the system with water, then the undrained fluid will be water. In that case, calculate how much concentrated coolant you need, and add that first. Then top up with water. That way you'll end up with the correct mix.

This excerpt is from page SL-2 of the Forester 2002 Factory Service Manual: The ignition switches on the MT models have a safety mechanism that prevents inadvertent locking of the steering wheel during driving. The driver cannot turn the ignition key from "ACC" to "LOCK" unless the key is pushed inward at the "ACC" position. The ignition switches on the AT models have a key interlock mechanism to avoid locking of the steering wheel during driving. The ignition key can be turned to the "LOCK" position only when the select lever is in the P position. NOTE: Should the key be impossible to turn to "LOCK" when the select lever is in the P position due to failure of the key interlock mechanism, the interlocking can be cancelled by operating the release lever located on the underside of the steering column.

My 2002 Forester MT does NOT have EGR.

I get the same feeling of improved performance, each time that I do an oil change. The engine just seems to run so smoothly. I think that it is all in the mind.

My 2002 Forester has the 3 rear shoulder belts.

I've today replaced the inner right-side CV boot (2002 Forester 5MT). I did from below, and it really wasn't too hard. However I do have a maintenance pit, so working from below was easy. The FSM is a great help, well worth getting. BTW, Subaru recommend using a new rollpin when reassembling. I did this; the new OEM rollpin cost almost as much as the aftermarket boot! In the first post, mention is made of 'shredded' boots. If anyone else notices visible damage to the CV boots, I would highly recommend replacing the boot, before it throws stinky grease all over the engine compartment. At least on the right-side, the inner boot will spray grease onto the exhaust pipe, so it doesn't take long to figure out that something is wrong!

This is a classic slave-cylinder problem. Yes, hot weather seems to make it worse. Solution, replace the slave-cylinder. It's an easy job, but you may need an extra person to help you bleed the fluid (need an extra foot on the clutch pedal).

I would also replace the radiator cap. Just in case it was over-pressure that caused the lower hose to split.

Replace Slave-cylinder?

The filter-box was in-place, underneath the glove box. The box-cover comes off, after taking a couple of clips off. The filter-medium slides in from the side. I first made a cardboard template, to get the right size. The final version was made in two pieces, each 7.75" x 4.5" (in order to get the filter-medium through the opening).

My 2002 Forester came from the factory without the cabin air-filters. I made my own by custom-cutting a piece of furnace-filter medium. It works OK, catches a few dead flies and the occasional leaf.

(2002 Forester 2.5MT) How important is the time limit (105-months)? I am at 100,000 miles, and I am getting ready to do the timing-belt (and idlers, water pump, etc.). But I am also at 115-months (i.e past the 105-months limit). Should I be concerned that I am over the time limit?

That's a bit risky! Most drivers wouldn't pay attention to gauges (did I mention my wife?). But a warning light might attract their attention.

The oil in the filter itself may not drain out, but oil in the oil-passages downstream of the filter could indeed drain back into the filter, leaving those oil-passages dry. But all things considered, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

I can tell you about my 2002 Forester, but I don't know how it compares to an Outback. I have three seats in the back of the Forester: - 2 child seats; and - 1 booster seat. The three seats side-by-side completely fill the width of the car, from door to door. The booster-seat is in the middle, and that child gets in first; we have to separate the other 2 empty child-seats a bit, in order to get the middle belt fastened. Then the other 2 children get buckled-in. It's a bit of a hassle, but it works. We are grandparents, so we don't have to do this on a daily basis. The biggest problem is having the 3 kids sitting within punching distance of each other!

Are you sure that the part without a 'valve' is actually the PCV valve? Maybe it's just a nipple for some other vacuum hose? This is how a 2.5L Subaru PCV valve should look. If my memory is correct, you'll need a 19mm wrench (or long-series socket) to unscrew it.

Sticking clutch pedal? Could be that you need a new slave cylinder. Plenty of info on this board. Search for 'clutch slave cylinder'.

You could check the resistance of the heating elements. I don't know how many ohms you should find. But it would be easy to compare the driver's-side with the passenger-side. I would start there.

Too much AT Fluid can cause excessive 'frothing' inside the case. The excess will then blow out of the air breather tube (on top of the AT case). If the discharging froth gets onto the exhaust pipe/cat, that's when you'll see the plume of white smoke in your rear-view mirror. It looks quite dramatic, but is unlikely to do any harm.