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Everything posted by forester2002s
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The filter-box was in-place, underneath the glove box. The box-cover comes off, after taking a couple of clips off. The filter-medium slides in from the side. I first made a cardboard template, to get the right size. The final version was made in two pieces, each 7.75" x 4.5" (in order to get the filter-medium through the opening).
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I can tell you about my 2002 Forester, but I don't know how it compares to an Outback. I have three seats in the back of the Forester: - 2 child seats; and - 1 booster seat. The three seats side-by-side completely fill the width of the car, from door to door. The booster-seat is in the middle, and that child gets in first; we have to separate the other 2 empty child-seats a bit, in order to get the middle belt fastened. Then the other 2 children get buckled-in. It's a bit of a hassle, but it works. We are grandparents, so we don't have to do this on a daily basis. The biggest problem is having the 3 kids sitting within punching distance of each other!
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Too much AT Fluid can cause excessive 'frothing' inside the case. The excess will then blow out of the air breather tube (on top of the AT case). If the discharging froth gets onto the exhaust pipe/cat, that's when you'll see the plume of white smoke in your rear-view mirror. It looks quite dramatic, but is unlikely to do any harm.
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Purolator Specifications for PL 14460: http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/resources/Popup/Pages/PartDetailPopup.aspx?partnum=PL14460 Purolator Specifications for PL 14459: http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/resources/Popup/Pages/PartDetailPopup.aspx?partnum=PL14459 These are the main differences: PL14460: Anti-drain-back valve NO; Relief Valve setting 20-25 psi; PL14459: Anti-drain-back valve YES; Relief Valve setting 12-15 psi. Based on those specs, I would definately change the filter ASAP.
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You don't say what year or model. Perhaps it doesn't matter in this case? The FSM for a 2002 Forester says to torque the AT pan-bolts to 3.6 ft-Lbs (similar to the figure given by #2 above). The key thing to remember, is that this isn't much torque. It would be very easy to accidently shear off those pan-bolts. Good luck.
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This wording had me puzzled at first. But I think I understand what you mean. When you say "e-brake light", I assume that you mean the "brake warning lamp". As I understand it, when the "brake warning lamp" comes on, this can indicate any of these problems: - Low fluid in the brake reservoir (nothing to do with the e-brake); or - Parking brake (e-brake) applied. So when you added fluid to the brake reservoir, and the lamp went out, this actually had nothing to do with the parking (e-)brake lever. Or I am I barking up the wrong tree? EDIT: On second thoughts, maybe this is what happened: - You have rear drum-brakes (not discs); - When you apply the parking brake, this forces the brake shoes apart to contact the drums; - this small movement of the brake shoes might suck in some brake-fluid from the brake lines, and depress the fluid-level in the reservoir; - and that could cause the "brake warning light" to come on, indicating low fluid-level. Is that what happened?
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My understanding is that you should NOT warm up an engine by letting it idle. Admittedly, my experience has mostly been with carburetted engines. The driver's manual used to say that prolonged idling causes harm to the engine; I assume that this was because the cold-start 'choke' produced an overly excessively rich mixture for starting, and the mixture stayed rich until the engine warmed up. Now, with computerized fuel-injection, that mixture goes leaner as soon as the engine starts, and so idling may not cause so much damage. My practice has always been to start the car, wait a few seconds (10-sec minimum, 30-sec maximum), and then drive away. As others have said, don't overload the engine until it is warm.