forester2002s

I drive a 2002 Forester MT. I find that hesitation is worse if I start the engine and then drive off immediately. However if I start the engine, wait about 10-seconds and then drive off, then there is no hesitation.

- 'liter' in the US. - 'litre' just about everywhere else.

I live in a semi-rural area in Canada, and I love my Forester. I do my own servicing (I agree with nipper's comments about preventative maintenance). I usually get my parts from an independent parts store; I've also bought parts online from www.autopartsway.ca . I'll go to the Subaru dealer for parts as a last resort. The only repair that I did not do myself was to have the clutch replaced; I had that done at an independent shop. Subaru's AWD are fantastic for Canadian snow. Just get some good snow tires; they make all the difference; don't be fooled by so-called 'All-season' tires, the rubber is far too hard at cold temperatures. Go for it! Get a Subaru! Eh!

Have you done a search for 'hesitation' on this board? There have been dozens of similar questions here, with loads of commentary.

And if RF might be the problem, try: - removing the new relay from the car altogether; does the offending 15" wire still cause no-start? - looping the offending wire back, and touching it to the +ve terminal of the battery; does the car start? - try pointing the offending wire in a different direction; does the car start? - try coiling the offending wire into a tight coil; does the car start?

Everything that you ever wanted to know about GL-5: http://www.lubrizol.com/DrivelineAdditives/AutomotiveGearOil/GL5.html

According to Wikipedia, VDC is very soon going to be required on all new cars: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_stability_control (scroll down to 'Laws')

Ditto. Plus the satisfaction that I get out of it.

Fuel filter: Yes, those rubber-hoses tend to get glued on to the filter pipes. Try rotating the rubber-hoses around the pipe instead of pulling them off. Use a pair of pliers to grip the rubber, and rotate back and forth a bit; try squirting some WD-40 into the ends of the rubber - it may help. Once free, just pull the hoses off.

I would check the oil level in the diff, ASAP. If the oil-level is OK, I agree that the diff is unlikely to fail suddenly. However if the diff is low on oil (or no oil), then it could seize-up at any time.

I had the clutch replaced about 20,000km ago, so it's almost new. But, my intermittent pedal-sticking started after that clutch job. ??

Bump. Any conclusion on this? I am having the same symptoms on my 2002 Forester 5MT. - clutch pedal not returning properly; - it sticks about half-way up, but only in hot weather with A/C on; - does not seem to affect the clutch engagement/disengagement; - a slight lift from underneath the pedal with my foot will release the pedal; and then it sticks again on next gear-change. I tried to buy new seals for the master and slave, but Subaru does not sell the seals separately. I may just flush and bleed the system to see if this cures the problem.

Did you mean "LESS than 1 qt"?

.. especially poor ground connections.

Me too! After several month of an intermittent clock, I finally fixed it. I saw that one of the previous posts had said that this could be done in 15-minutes, so I couldn't procrastinate any longer! It does indeed only take 15-min. Yes it was the #510 resistor-solder that was cracked, but I resoldered #300 as well. Thanks to whoever it was who posted the original fix (great photos), and to all others who have kept the link alive.

I'll take the risk of opening a can of worms, but I use Fram filters, and they NEVER leak.

Gaulding?? What has that to do with spark-plugs? Did you mean 'galling'?

I reuse the old washer 4 or 5 times. Then I replace it with a new crush-washer. Not because the old one leaks; it never does. But more out of a sense of guilt: The mighty Subaru engineers have decreed that the washer should not be reused, and I feel that I ought to comply. So I do, but only every 5th time!

I agree. That is exactly what I did a year or so ago (2002 Forester). That 'auto' adjustment system rarely works properly, in my experience, and it is easier to remove the wheel and mini brake-drum. There was plenty of meat left on my linings, just needed adjustment. And then I did a small cable adjustment (under the hand-brake handle). And my hand-brake was transformed back to new!

A marble in the ash-tray?

So that your rear-seat passengers can over-ride your choice of music?

Two thoughts: - Can your remote switch handle the (very) large current that a typical starter-motor needs? - Have you got 12V at the starter terminals when you try to start? If not, then the problem is in the supply to the starter. If yes, then the problem is in the starter.

Try parking your car rear-end to a wall, preferably after dark. Then press the brake pedal and/or put the parking lights on. You should be able to see reflections of the lights. You can also do this when parked in front of another car. Either way, you can check whether your lights are coming on.

Definately not normal! Strange things like this can sometimes be caused by a faulty ground somewhere.

A flashing-red LED lamp (even if it does nothing) will deter thieves. And a steering-wheel club (even if it is not locked) will deter thieves. However, if someone really wants your car, you can't stop them. They could lift the car on to a flat-bed truck, and be gone in seconds.