forester2002s

I'm relieved to find out how this circuit works. I was worried at the thought that there were bare electrical sparky-contacts in my fuel tank. I kept saying to myself: "Surely not!"

Do you have any facts that you could share with us? Or this just a racist/xenophobic rant?

I have never found a good wiper blade (in almost 50-years of driving). But it helps to clean the blades every time that I fill up with fuel. I wipe the blades with the back-side of the window squeegee-tool; and then I clean off the blades with a paper towel.

I bought a brick-type magnet at Sears, and I strap this on to the outside of the oil-filter canister with a large hose-clamp. Does it work? I don't know, but my assumption is that it does no harm.

Holy mackerel! That's 24,000 - 34,000 rpm. Cleared for takeoff?

The rear diff on my Sube has two plugs. One is a drain-plug, and the other is the fill-plug. Remove the fill-plug FIRST, then remove the drain-plug and drain the oil. Why? Because if you take the drain-plug out first, what do you then do if the fill-plug is seized? The drain-plug has a magnet inside. Make sure to clean the iron-filings off of the magnet. When you see the stuff that is on that magnet, you'll know why changing the oil was such a good idea. If I remember correctly, the two plugs have female square-holes, and I think that a 1/2" sq.drive fits into this (I'll check my car later, and edit this if I was wrong). My rear diff takes 0.8 litres of oil (measured to the bottom of the fill-hole). You can make life easy for yourself, by buying a turkey-baster (the squeeze-bulb type). and using that to squeeze the oil into the fill hole. The whole thing takes about 30-minutes.

Quote from the Subaru Factory Service Manual for 2002 Forester: Recommended spark plug: CHAMPION RC10YC4 NGK BKR6E-11, BKR5E-11 Spark plug gap 1.0 — 1.1 mm (0.039 — 0.043 in) The Forester came from the factory fitted with the Champions. They worked just fine.

Nipper: We need you! By all means leave this thread alone. But I, for one, appreciate your input. In fact, when I see your comments on a thread, I take note and learn from them. I look forward to your input on other threads!

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#2006%20tribeca (includes disarming instruction for 2009 models)

What do you see when looking into the coolant overflow reservoir? Any bubbles? Any oil film? That would indicate a HG leak from the combustion chamber. But as you say, you may only have an external leak.

Can you elaborate on this? I've never heard of this phenomenon before.

I can't recall where I bought my silicone stick (they last a long time). Try a hardware store, or auto-parts store.

I use a solid silicone white stick (or is: solid white silicone stick?). I wipe it on directly to the DRY and CLEAN rubber door-seal, and then go over the surface very gently with a clean paper-towel. I do this once a year before the winter - it's never let me down.

To preserve your virginity, just stick a piece of black electrician's tape across the switch; that will keep it in the OFF position.

A Subaru wind turbine on the roof of my house, generating electricity for my Subaru electric-car in the garage. Hey Santa, that's what I want for Christmas!

Don't be misled by the look of the tread on 'all-seasons'. They may be good for mud, but they lose grip at low-temperatures. Best to get proper 'snow-tires', which are made with a softer rubber which grips the road better in the cold (below about 5C or 40F). You can do the fingernail test yourself: bury your fingernail into the rubber, and you'll see the difference between the softer snow-tires and the harder all-seasons.

Do you know for sure that it does not have keyless entry? Or is it just missing the remotes?

A good reply, nipper. But it's a long way to ship a tranny: from Melbourne (Oz?) to Canada!

There you go! Try jiggling the key back and forth between OFF and ACC. Failing that, take a sledge hammer to the ignition switch !

I wonder if this is a fault with the ignition key/switch? Perhaps the switch is staying in the ACC position, instead of turning to OFF? The radio typically is energised when the ignition key is in the ACC position. Are there any other electrical components staying on (when they should be OFF) with the key out? You might test: - windshield wipers; - power windows; - power mirrors; - cigarette lighter; - seat heaters. Some of these might normally be energised with the key at ACC, but should denergise at OFF. BTW, I assume that your radio only stays on (with the key out) when it was already switched on before the key was removed.

Question: Are you saying that you lose 1/4 cup of coolant from the overflow tank EACH TIME that you use the AC? And that it doesn't return to the tank later? If that is the case, then you are actually losing coolant somewhere. However, if the level of coolant returns to normal later, then this is nothing to be concerned about. Please clarify.

Yes, with a 16-footer mounted laterally, I think that you are wise to check either side very carefully.:-\

Heck NO! Don't discontinue this discussion! I open this thread first, each time I log on. And as for that recent 'black' week, well, I was in withdrawal! From my memory, from a long time ago, in another age, with another car, here is another idea: I once had a hairline crack in a spark-plug's porcelain insulator. It took me ages to debug. I was actually getting a physical misfire (which I don't think that you have). But could a cracked insulator set a misfire code??

Or you could look at it this way: 60 + 30 = 90 It depends which baseline you use for measuring.

Great fix! Talk about ingenuity! I had a similar problem one dark and stormy night... This was old Ford, the car stopped in the middle of nowhere. No fuel was getting through. I couldn't even start it. I tried removing a spark-plug to test for a spark, =OK. Then I pulled out the choke knob (remember those knobs?), and the car started. I drove a long way that night (to see my girlfriend), using the choke-knob as a throttle. The car didn't go very fast, but it got me there! Later, I dismantled the carb, cleaned the plugs, and all was well again.