forester2002s

Yes, with a 16-footer mounted laterally, I think that you are wise to check either side very carefully.:-\

Heck NO! Don't discontinue this discussion! I open this thread first, each time I log on. And as for that recent 'black' week, well, I was in withdrawal! From my memory, from a long time ago, in another age, with another car, here is another idea: I once had a hairline crack in a spark-plug's porcelain insulator. It took me ages to debug. I was actually getting a physical misfire (which I don't think that you have). But could a cracked insulator set a misfire code??

Or you could look at it this way: 60 + 30 = 90 It depends which baseline you use for measuring.

Great fix! Talk about ingenuity! I had a similar problem one dark and stormy night... This was old Ford, the car stopped in the middle of nowhere. No fuel was getting through. I couldn't even start it. I tried removing a spark-plug to test for a spark, =OK. Then I pulled out the choke knob (remember those knobs?), and the car started. I drove a long way that night (to see my girlfriend), using the choke-knob as a throttle. The car didn't go very fast, but it got me there! Later, I dismantled the carb, cleaned the plugs, and all was well again.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with a badly rusted oil-pan. My gut reaction is: Replace that pan ASAP.

For the record: My 2002 Forester came equipped from the factory with Champion plugs (RC10YC4). They ran just fine. I changed them out (at 63,000km), but they appeared to be as good as new.

I once fixed a loose ball and socket on my rear-view mirror, by diassembling it, and then coating the ball with a bit of liquid honey, and then reassembling. It worked a treat.

I live away from gas stations, and so I keep a reserve 25-litre can of gas in my garage. I've never had a problem with this 'old' gas. Sometimes it is 6-months old when I use it, and it works just fine.

Just a thought, but on my 2002 Forester, the headlights and foglights are fed from separate fuses. In fact the LH headlamp, RH headlamp and foglight-pair are all on different fuses. So I hope that you are not overloading a fuse by piggybacking two loads into one.

I get it! I think that I'll have another 'cuppa'.

Because of the way that Subaru engines fire, you'll need 'double-platinum', instead of the slightly cheaper 'single-platinum'.

Make sure that you rename each downloaded file: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=174415#post174415

If possible, I would get someone to start the car occasionally (say once/month?). And even better, to move it under power a few feet forwards and back (to re-lubricate all gears and bearings).

If you meant 'kilometres', that's too soon to change your oil:banana: If you mean '1000 x miles', that's another story....

Word of caution: I would be very hesitant of driving a car that leaked fuel. Why? In one word: FIRE!

Have you tried testing the suspect thermostats? Boil them up in a saucepan of water, and watch them open up... A bit like cooking mussels from the beach.

A simple oil change can sometimes clear a stuck lifter. And if the car is new to you, I would suggest an immediate engine-oil + filter change anyway. (And the transmission and rear-axle oils too!)

I was vacationing in Tasmania recently, and I was impressed at the number of Subarus there. My (very unscientific) survey suggested that about 1 in 10 cars were Subarus.

Probably around 30 Hz?

I'd like to believe that. However, surely LOWER atmospheric pressure means LESS dense air, and therefore LESS oxygen? A bit like driving up to 10,000ft in Colorado?

Years ago (1960s), I recall that some racing cars had water injection to boost performance. At that time (in my pre-Subie youth) I had a 150cc Lambretta scooter. This had a two-stroke engine, and a very simple carburetor. I remember that the engine performed much better in damp weather; it ran much smoother and seemed to have more power than on dry, sunny days. Not a very scientific piece of info, I realize, but the water did seem to help.

Are you suggesting that WE (who?) should do it differently than Subaru recommends?

Be aware that if you lubricate the threads, you may end up with a much higher stud tension than is intended. This is because lubricated threads make it easier to turn the nut, given a specific torque. Or to put it another way, you may be applying the correct torque, but might be overstressing the studs. In the absence of any instructions to the contrary, it is always best to apply a specified torque to CLEAN and DRY threads. My Subaru Factory Service Manual says: - "Fasteners must be tightened to the specified torque. Do not apply paint, lubricant, rust retardant, or other substances to the surface around bolts, fasteners, etc. Doing so will make it difficult to obtain the correct torque and result in looseness and other problems."

Do you mean the brake 'warning light' on the dashboard? Or do you mean the brake 'lights' at the rear of the car?

How is that possible? At 50mm diameter, the rubber seal wouldn't even reach to the sealing surface. Yes. You've every right to be confused...