forester2002s

A simple oil change can sometimes clear a stuck lifter. And if the car is new to you, I would suggest an immediate engine-oil + filter change anyway. (And the transmission and rear-axle oils too!)

I was vacationing in Tasmania recently, and I was impressed at the number of Subarus there. My (very unscientific) survey suggested that about 1 in 10 cars were Subarus.

Probably around 30 Hz?

I'd like to believe that. However, surely LOWER atmospheric pressure means LESS dense air, and therefore LESS oxygen? A bit like driving up to 10,000ft in Colorado?

Years ago (1960s), I recall that some racing cars had water injection to boost performance. At that time (in my pre-Subie youth) I had a 150cc Lambretta scooter. This had a two-stroke engine, and a very simple carburetor. I remember that the engine performed much better in damp weather; it ran much smoother and seemed to have more power than on dry, sunny days. Not a very scientific piece of info, I realize, but the water did seem to help.

Are you suggesting that WE (who?) should do it differently than Subaru recommends?

Be aware that if you lubricate the threads, you may end up with a much higher stud tension than is intended. This is because lubricated threads make it easier to turn the nut, given a specific torque. Or to put it another way, you may be applying the correct torque, but might be overstressing the studs. In the absence of any instructions to the contrary, it is always best to apply a specified torque to CLEAN and DRY threads. My Subaru Factory Service Manual says: - "Fasteners must be tightened to the specified torque. Do not apply paint, lubricant, rust retardant, or other substances to the surface around bolts, fasteners, etc. Doing so will make it difficult to obtain the correct torque and result in looseness and other problems."

Do you mean the brake 'warning light' on the dashboard? Or do you mean the brake 'lights' at the rear of the car?

How is that possible? At 50mm diameter, the rubber seal wouldn't even reach to the sealing surface. Yes. You've every right to be confused...

Don't forget that there are 'single-platinum' plugs (with platinum only on the centre-electrode), and 'double-platinum' plugs (with all-platinum electrodes). And that with Subaru's shared firing pattern, a 'single-platinum' plug will theoretically last longer in cylinder #1 than in cylinder #2. Or is it the other way around?

That's certainly the best way to measure rolling circumference, and can be used to compare several tires, PROVIDING all tires are tested the same way. However, if one tire is not on the car (& cannot be mounted on the car), then a tape measure must be used. In that case, the other tire must be taken off the car and measured the same way with a tape measure. To compare circumferences to within a 1/4" (6 mm), both tires must be measured using the same method. Otherwise the differences in measuring methods can easily mask the 1/4" spread.

What is that roof-mounted antenna used for? Radio? Cell-phone? GPS?

Did you mean: ...drain, REFILL, drive a few miles and drain again??

Try Subaru's online site, where you can download Service Manuals (for a fee): http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/ixSearchKwAll.jsp?publication_type=10&model_year=2003&vehicle_line=Baja They list Manuals both for the 2003 Baja and the 2003 Legacy.

Disclaimer 1: I know nothing about airbags, so don't take my word for the truth. Disclaimer 2: I don't know anything about the 1996 Legacy. However, this is what the Factory Service Manual for my 2002 Forester, says about DTCs (Diagnotic Trouble Codes): - The long segment (1.2 sec on) indicates a “ten”, - and the short segment (0.3 sec on) indicates a “one”. And so I would say that you are reading DTC 11 and DTC 14. Again, for a 2002 Forester: DTC 11 DIAGNOSIS: Airbag main harness circuit is open, shorted or shorted to ground. Airbag module harness (Driver) circuit is open, shorted or shorted to ground. Roll connector circuit is open, shorted or shorted to ground. Driver’s airbag module is faulty. Airbag control module is faulty. CAUTION: Before diagnosing the airbag system, be sure to turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the ground cable from the battery, and wait more than 20 seconds before starting to work. Before replacing the airbag module, roll controller, control module, and sensor, reconnect each part and confirm that the warning light operates properly. When inspecting the airbag main harness, disconnect the driver’s airbag module and passenger’s airbag module connectors for safety reasons. DTC 14 is not listed (in my 2002 Forester FSM).

...a voice from the dead?

I would also do an oil & filter change just before the trip (unless this has been done very recently). And I would also check all the tires (including the spare): - remove and replace each wheel (using the jack and wrench that you keep in the trunk); - inspect tread for embedded foreign-objects; - check tire pressures; - if any wheel-shimmy, rebalance tire(s). Replace windscreen wipers? Have a good trip!

I call this: The Zen of Subaru ownership.

I looked at the NABISCO site, and it says to use Crunched-up Oreos mixed in with warm milk. I'll try that at my next coolant change.

I guess they'll just bore out the 2.0 to make it larger. Did I hear anyone say Headgaskets?

The longitudinal roof-rack rails are fastened to the roof with threaded studs. If these get loose (try shaking the rails), water can leak in above the headliner, and might then be channeled down the structure into the sides of the car. Just a thought....

I put single-platinum plugs in my 2002-Forester about 40,000-km ago, before I knew any better. Can I switch them over to 'the other side' and run them there for a while? To even out the wear... a bit like rotating tires? Any thoughts?

Here is a link to a 2006 thread on this subject: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=469698&postcount=20 Note the reference to a 10-minute delay (before the Low Fuel Lamp comes on). Not sure if this applies to all models.

I have been using Fram filters (fuel, air and oil) for many years, on several vehicles. The only filter-related problem that I can recall, was a blocked fuel-filter due to dirty fuel (i.e. the filter worked!).

I don't get it????? My wheel nuts are cone-shaped, and they mate with a cone-shaped bore on the wheel. As the nuts are tightened, the wheel is forced into place, and ends up centered. Even if the wheels are on the ground.