forester2002s

Bear in mind that any test and/or wiring arrangement will be specific to a particular model-year, and maybe model-type as well. Which model and year is the above test designed for?

I've dug through the Factory Service Manual for my 2002 Forester, and found the following: - Low-Fuel Warning Lamp comes on when fuel tank sensors read 9.0 L (2.3 USgal, 1.9 IMPgal), but only if the reading is consistent for either 10-minutes or 10-km of driving. - this setting corresponds to a resistance across both fuel-tank sensors (in series) of approx. 80 ohms (or more). - the actual lamp is embedded in the printed-circuit board of the combination-meter, and there doesn't appear to be a way of testing the lamp. I suppose that one could take the lamp out and test it with 12V, but that wouldn't confirm that the rest of the wiring was OK. - the lamp is NOT tested when starting the engine (one could ask WHY NOT?, but Subaru, in its wisdom, has not included that feature). - as far as I can tell, the ONLY way of testing this lamp is to run low on fuel (as others have suggested). EDIT: Just had another thought... Try disconnecting the two fuel-tank sensors, and apply a known resistance of more than 80 ohms (say 100 ohms) across the wiring terminals (and wait 10-minutes too). This might fool the combination-meter into thinking that it should illuminate the low-fuel lamp.

= 'hose clamps'

Close the door?

I have a 2002 Forester-S 5MT. I didn't get a recall notice for the HeadGasket goop. I don't know if this is because I live in Canada, or whether my vehicle doesn't need it. Anyway, I would say go for it. I have been happy with mine. I've made 2 electrical mods to the car: 1. Rewired the power windows, so that they work on the ACC switch position, as well as the IGN switch position (as supplied). 2. Added a relay and PB to the seat-heater circuit, so that the seat-heaters cancel themselves when the ignition is switched to OFF. As supplied, the heaters re-energized themselves each time the car was started, if one forgot to turn the toggle-switch off (you'll know what I mean, the first time that you use the seat-heaters). On more minor problem with the car: It suffers from hesitation/lurching, particularly at slow speeds. This is particularly evident if I start the car and drive off immediately. However, if I start the car, wait about 5 seconds, and then drive off, then there is no engine hesitation.

Years ago, my driving instructor told me that trainee ambulance drivers had to pass a special driving-test. One of the things that they had to do, was to drive the ambulance around, with a FULL glass of water standing in the vehicle, and NOT SPILL any water! This would mean: - SMOOTH acceleration; - GENTLE braking; - SLOW cornering. You get the picture. If you drove that way, you would burn less gas, wear out brakes less, and be kind to your tires. But you certainly wouldn't qualify as a taxi-driver...

I once had a job cutting keys.... And you CAN make a new copy from a worn key. This is because the key copying machine measures from the BOTTOM of each 'notch'; and the bottom is easy to locate, since it doesn't get worn. What does wear on an old key, is the sharp tops of the 'notches', but this doesn't matter when making a new key. Obviously, if you have a new key handy, then use that to make a copy.

My 2002 Forester has the airfoil type of cross-bar: the rounded nose faces forward, and the slightly sharper trailing-edge is at the back. The rack is not too noisy, EXCEPT when I remove the upper rubber strip (this covers the full-width accessory slot). When the slot is exposed, the wind-noise increases dramatically.

Q2: On my 2002 MT Forester, I drained the rear-diff oil at 1000-km, and it was a 'dark-grey' opaque colour. I drained it again at 8000-km and at 50,000-km, and each time the oil was clear.

Gas consumption includes many variables, engine speed being one of them. But 'throttle position' (read 'fuel flow') is also a major one. So at twice the engine speed, the 'throttle position' would be much lower. Who's to say what the resultant gas consumption would be. It's not that simple.

My 2002 Forester spins at 3000 RPM at 70 mph. I'm quite happy with that. It sounds and feels OK. I wouldn't want the RPMs to be any lower, considering that Max. Torque on this engine is at about 4000 rpm.

I've had a similar problem with my 2002 Forester. When the snow gets packed-in the wheel wells, I've noticed my ABS warning light comes on. The light stays on until the snow is cleared from the wheel well. The brakes still work, but it seems as if snow is getting into an ABS sensor somewhere behind the wheel.

You might try spraying some WD-40 into the lock. Maybe one of the tumblers has got stuck.

I am a little paranoid about doing frequent oil changes, hence I change engine oil and filter each 3,000-km. Yes, I know that many people think that this is excessive, but it is cheap insurance and my car always runs on clean oil . As to break-in periods, when my 2002 Forester was new, I changed all oils at 1,000-km. That included engine oil, manual-transmission, and rear-diff. I noticed that the drained rear-diff oil was a cloudy-grey colour at 1,000-km. And so I drained it again at 8,000-km, at which time the oil was clear. And then I drained both the MT and rear-diff again at 50,000-km. I agree with you that one shouldn't rev the engine too high during the break-in period (say for the first 1,000-km); I would also recommend not too much throttle, so that the gear-teeth and con-rod bearings don't see too much load. This will allow these metal surfaces to polish up nicely.

I have a Hidden-Hitch on my 2002 Forester. It really is almost hidden away under the rear bumper. I was going to install it myself, but the supplier gave me such a good deal, that I had them do it. BTW, mine is a class II hitch, capable of towing 3500 Lbs. The class I hitch (which Subaru recommends) wasn't much cheaper and looked a lot lighter, so I went for the stronger class II.

Juan said: I think that you're missing the point here. That's how Subaru's AWD works; the fluid stiffens on purpose when it detects differential rotation between wheels.

Boy, is this ever confusing! HELP! We need some input from knowledgeable tire people.......

If it's the contacts that need lubeing, then you'll need some 'electrically conducting grease'. Try your local auto-parts store.

I have a 1980's-era Dodge locking cap on my 2002 Forester. It works a treat.

The wiring diagram for my 2002 Forester suggests that the switch-lamps would illuminate even if the seat-heater elements were faulty/unplugged/non-existent. So I wouldn't rely on the switch-lamps to confirm whether the heater elements are OK or not-OK.

This sounds like the classic 'hesitation' problem, well-addressed on this forum. Do a search on this thread for the word 'hesitation', and all will be revealed. I have the same problem with my 2002 Forester. I can almost eliminate the symptoms by idling for about 10 seconds immediately after starting the car.

On my 2002 Forester, that button to the left of the steering wheel, adjacent to the cruise and fog-light buttons, is for the Windshield + Side-Mirror Heaters. You should be able to see the Windshield heater-wires, embedded in the glass low-down under the parked wiper-blades. In fact that is what they are for, to defrost the wiper-blades and unglue them from the glass. The side-mirror heaters are not visible on my Forester; they must be bonded to the back of the mirrors. Anyway, they work!

Great idea! If the plastic-tie doesn't work, how about a good old-fashioned paper clip, gradually squeezed over the hose?

Yes, I think that these air-compartment filters are optional. They don't come as original equipment. I guess Subaru's thinking is that, for most applications, they are not needed.

This could be the subject of a whole new thread: to lubricate, or not to lubricate the threads? Unless otherwise specified, a tightening torque is meant to be applied to clean, undamaged threads. Applying the same torque to lubricated threads, results in a larger (sometimes MUCH larger) bolt-tension. Applying the same torque to dirty or corroded threads, results in a smaller bolt-tension. So, what to do? IMHO: Don't lubricate the threads, unless there is a good reason to do so.