forester2002s

Alright, I take back my suggestion about using an old Head-Gasket to wave with. I have just read on CNN that Consumer reports have given top marks to Subaru in 2 categories: - Best 'Fun to Drive' car: Subaru Impreza WRX/STi; - Best 'Small SUV': Subaru Forester. So I suggest that we keep a copy of Consumer Reports in the door-pocket, and wave that at other Subies (and at other cars!)

How about keeping an old Head-Gasket in the door-pocket, and waving this at other Subies?

To check for bad u-joints: Get a large pipe-wrench (one that will open wide enough to fit the outside diameter of the drive-shaft). Grip the drive shaft with the pipe-wrench and try to rotate it first one way then the other (with the transmission in gear, and the of course the handbrake on). If you can see any movement across the u-joints, then the bearings may be shot. You can also do this by hand, trying to rotate the drive-shaft. You may see some movement in the u-joints, but only if they are very loose, and completely shot. Best to put torque on the drive-shaft with a pipe wrench.

On a related subject: I was parked on a residential street once, and went out to unlock my Subaru using the keyless remote. I heard a click from a Honda across the road. I pressed my remote again, and another click from the Honda! My remote was unlocking someone else's car. Scary!

I would vote for a Vacuum Gauge. I don't have one on my Subaru, but have installed them on other vehicles. The vacuum reading is useful, amongst other things, to help conserve fuel. A slight change in throttle position can change the inlet vacuum 'pressure' considerably. And this affects fuel consumption dramatically. Especially useful on long highway trips, but I find it helpful all the time, even around town. Just tee into any vacuum hose somewhere in the engine compartment, preferably near to the inlet manifold.

Have you tried checking for leaks around the valves? Use a 50/50 liquid-soap/water mixture, and brush it on around the base of the valve-stems, and around the top of the valve itself. Any leaks will show up as bubbles growing in the soap mixture. It seems strange though, that all tires should leak....

Could be a number of things, but I would check battery terminals first. Make sure that the +ve and ground battery clamps are clean and tight. I have had experience with old cars where this connection gets corroded and you lose electrical continuity. There may be enough of a connection to give 12V to accessories, including the starter relay; but the 12V disappears when trying to draw a high current through the starter motor. This is an easy check, so I would do it first.

Yes I vote for Craftsman too. They really do honour their guarantee. I have taken more than one socket back to be replaced due to cracking (probably my fault, not the socket's). And, as other people have noted, just about any Craftsman tool comes on sale sooner or later. I have found the Sears' salespeople very helpful; they can look up the sale schedule on the cash-register, and tell you if a particular item is due for a sale soon.

"So you have used these downloads and you have been satisfied with their content and completeness??" Yes I have download the 2002 Forester FSM. It is very detailed. As I downloaded, I renamed all of the pdf files with proper descriptions (otherwise the filenames mean nothing). I also purchased a hardcopy of the wiring diagrams (ordered through a local Subaru dealer for CAD$32); these come bound in one volume, and are easier to work with than the pdf files. A previous post has mentioned that the 1999 FSM consists of updates. You may want to check into this. Maybe a dealer's service dept. can help.

You could also try this site for help: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

Do you have the correct remote? Try this site for help: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

You can download the complete Subaru Factory Service Manual in pdf format from http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp On that site, you have two options: 1. Pay for the downloads that you need (this will be fairly quick, but expensive); 2. Pay USD20 for 72-hour access to the download site. During the 72 hours you can download anything that you want from the site, but it takes time. The FSM consists of hundreds of individual pdf files. If you have the time (and a broadband connection), this is the way to go. The Factory Service Manuals are excellent, with lots of detail. You may also be able to buy them at Subaru Dealerships, again for a price.

I recently purchased a new remote on eBay, and it works fine. Just make sure that the Part No. is exactly the same; there are several variants out there. The reprogramming was simple; the procedure is given in the Owner's Manual. My 2002 Subaru is on the road right now, with the Owner's Manual. If you need the details, let me know and I'll post them here.

My old Dodge gas-guzzling V8 used to have a magnetic oil-drain plug. I always changed the oil & filter frequently, but the magnet always had a 'fuzz' coating of metal particles when I removed it. I think that magnets are a great idea, and don't know why Subaru doesn't use them (maybe more aluminum than steel in engines these days?)

I have the pdf versions of the Factory Service Manuals for: - 2002 Forester, and - 2004 Impreza. (not the same as yours, I know, but may give a guide). The wiring for the Seat Heaters are shown to be similar for both cars (although the wire colours differ slightly). Each seat has two heater elements. Connecting one to 12V gives the 'High' setting. Connecting 12V across the two elements in series gives the 'Low' setting. If you see a Black wire in the seat, that is probably meant to be grounded. All that the switch (mounted in the centre console in my 2002 Forester) does is to switch the incoming 12V to the correct combination of heater elements. Good luck.

I have a Canadian 2002 Forester. I have not received any notification from Subaru Canada (but I am on their mailing list, because they send me some advertising stuff every so often). But then maybe the 2002s are not eligible for the HG goo?

This may be too obvious, and you've probably checked it, but... - Is the oil filter screwed on properly, and does the rubber gasket seal well? - Is the oil drain-plug leaking? Is the metal gasket OK?

Fuel filter? How long since last changed? Or have you filled up with some dirty gas, or water in gas?

And, if you are connecting to the battery, you'll need some sort of overcurrent device: fuse, fusable-link, breaker.... Otherwise you're heading for a fire in your Sube.

With all the technical advances of recent times, maybe it is time to rethink how a speedometer should work. Could a speed-signal be taken from the road surface below the car, e.g. using a laser beam perhaps? That would eliminate all of the variables listed in the above response from SOA. Just thinking out aloud...

"To turn the Audible signal off, unluck the doors by pushing "UNLOCK/DISARM" button and then simultaneously depress "LOCK/ARM' and "UNLOCK/DISARM" buttons for more than two seconds. The horn will sound two times to inform you that the audible signal has been turned off. To turn the audible signal on, unluck the doors by pushing "UNLOCK/DISARM" button and then simultaneously depress "LOCK/ARM' and "UNLOCK/DISARM" buttons for more than two seconds. The horn will sound one more time to inform you that the audible signal has been turned on." - above text from 2002 Forester Owner's Manual.

Thanks for this description. I'll file it away for future reference. All I need on my Forester now, is some way for the heater-switch to cancel itself after a predetermined time, or to reset when the ignition goes off. Mine stays on (annoyingly) until physically switched off.

On my 2002 Forester, the horn-beep can be disabled when using the keyless remote. My Drivers' Handbook has instructions on how to do this; it may or may not be the same as for other models. Let me know if you need to know the details.

I bought the Auterra Dyno-Scan about a year ago. It is a handy little device, and runs on my Sony Clie PDA. So far I've only used used it seriously for reading and clearing codes. But it does other wonderful things that I've only played with: it displays all sorts of readings in either digital or graphical form, and does a 'freeze-frame' of engine conditions as you drive, for later analysis. It is a bit pricey at USD299, and there are many other cheaper scan tools. But the Auterra Dyno-Scan certainly works....

8 years, that's pretty good. My batteries don't last nearly that long. You say that you upgraded to a higher CCA. I did the same thing a while ago on another (non-Subaru) vehicle; I had bought the new battery at Walmart. The battery died after two or three years, but Walmart would not honour the remaining time on the warranty; they said that because I hadn't bought the battery listed as being the correct one for my vehicle, then the warranty was invalid. I tried to reason that I had bought a better battery for my vehicle, but to no avail. So be prepared for an invalid warranty. Maybe Sears are better than Walmart. Or maybe you'll get another 8-years on your new battery!