forester2002s

Hmm. I wonder... Electrical problem with contacts in ignition-key?

I know that you suspect the heater-core, but... Could it be a hair-line crack in the plastic header of the main radiator? Such a crack is difficult to spot, but will let a fine spray of hot coolant escape into the engine compartment. EDIT: Just seen Texan's (almost simultaneous) post.

Nasty! Probably wedged the driver's door shut too.

It's called a 'donut'. It's basically a thick gasket, designed to accommodate minor-misalignment of the joint. I think that you can buy a kit that includes the bolts, springs and a donut. EDIT: Found this online; no guarantee that this is the correct donut for your car, but this is probably what you're looking for: Catalytic Converter Gasket (Rear) But you'll need those 'ears' to squeeze the donut and to get a seal.

You say: "...we changed water pump thermostat and gasket radiator and hoses..." If the cooling system wasn't bled properly, there might have been air trapped in the system, an 'air-lock'. And that could cause overheating; and it might not manifest itself immediately on short trips around town. But eventually the engine would overheat.

Also Trouble Codes can sometimes mean 2 things: - There's something wrong with the engine/fuel/electrics/exhaust etc., and you may need to replace a part. Or: - One of the sensors is playing up and giving false readings and it's the sensor itself that needs replacing.

My 2017 Forester has something like 'directional steering', but it's not much use: - when I turn a corner to the left, the left-side fog-lamp comes on; - when I turn to the right, the right-side fog-lamp come on; - the fog-lamps don't actually swivel at all.

Could be a blocked fuel-filter.

Low refrigerant-pressure?

I think that the boot is clamped/sandwiched under the top trim-cover. Here's a parts diagram that hints at the 'clamping' possibility: https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-cover-console-box-front~92121sa050.html

Yes, but that means less oxigen available for combustion. Your engine will run rich. Gonna need to clean those plugs...

Unfortunate spelling mistake? probably = properly ?

MT could have seized from lack of lubrication. Then clutch slips and smokes each time you try to move the car, and the clutch-plate may now be worn down so it slips continually.

Sounds like the clutch is slipping. Could be worn clutch-plate, or throw-out bearing, or clutch-fork. The lack of oil in the MT is puzzling. Involute gears can't run for long without oil, and will self-destruct pretty quickly.

+1

My 2002 Forester EJ251 (which I bought new) gradually seeped oil from the head gaskets. Nothing major, but it did require occasional top-up. Lower left-side was the worst. At 140,000 miles I had the engine out to replace the clutch, and put in MLS HGs at the same time. Since then (about 5-years), the HGs have been tight, not even a hint of seepage.

I have a garage full of saved 'jewels'. Saved, 'just in case' I might need them. And over the years, my hoard of 'useful stuff' has been invaluable. However, as I've aged, my memory has diminished (slowly, gradually, unstoppable) to the point that I can't recall where my stuff has been stashed, nor even can I always recall what I actually have. I dream that I will bequeath my Aladdin's Cave of jewels to my children and grandchildren. The reality is that they will park a dumpster in the driveway, into which they will toss everything...

Should you be worried? It all depends... How much rain/snow? How much wind? How fast will you be driving? How important is it that you make it to your destination? Are you a worrier? Or are problems like 'water off a duck's back'? Too many variables...

Good question! Could easily be that!

Since that first event (about 6-months ago), the problem has not recurred. I do turn my wheels into or out of the curb, when parking on a hill. But I no longer force the steering-wheel over to the side to lock it. In fact I now try not to let the tires actually touch the curb. I suspect that my original problem was that I may have been forcing the right-front tire too hard into the curb to lock it. I think that the elasticity of the rubber sidewall may have acted like a spring, to jam the steering-wheel lock. It hasn't happened again since then.

I had a similar problem with my 2017 Forester. It as the keyless feature, with a fob and push-button start. Out of the blue, the steering wheel was locked solid. Like you I tried everything. Eventually I just turned the steering-wheel using more much force than usual, and it suddenly freed itself.

If suddenly accelerate, can you hear a 'thump'? And if you suddenly let off the gas, is there a 'thump'? If so, it could be engine or trans mounts.

Sounds like it needs a good fluid-flush.

Program Subaru Keys & Remote

I don't know about the Legacy 2.5. But, I have a 2002 Forester 2.5 MT, with the original engine, and it has NO EGR.