forester2002s

Check the spare-tire storage location under the rear cargo-area. On my 2002 Forester, the rear-end of the hose is under the roof-liner, near to the rear-hatch. Mine leaked near there years ago, but I wasn't immediately aware of the leak. The fluid was running down inside of the rear corner-post, and ended up in the spare-tire well.

Clear the P2096 code. Does it come back immediately? Or does it come back after the stalling problem? Or...?

Measure the voltage twice: - First, at the +ve battery-post - Then again at the starter-motor terminal (where the large wire is connected). There shouldn't be much of a voltage diffetence between these 2 readings.

Could be the crank-pulley being loose or coming apart, or the timing-belt tensioner being loose? Worth checking these out, if you haven't already.

Does your key-fob have fresh batteries? Is the key-fob OEM? or after-market?

How's the car's 12V battery? EDIT: Oh I see that you said that the battery is good.

Try a fresh fuse.

One of the features of snow tires, is that the rubber-compound is softer than on other tires. This gives snow tires better grip on icy surfaces. Do the 'fingernail test' on the rubber tread: stick your thumbnail into the face of the tread; compare different tires. However (there's always a 'however'), soft rubber wears faster than hard rubber. So good snow tires will wear out faster than regular tires.

Exhaust heat-shields rattling?

Viscosity is not crucial on a 1997: 5W30?, 10W30?, 10W40? Its not going to make much of a difference. If you're burning or leaking oil, go with the thicker grades Filter: Subaru OEM?, or Fram?, or Wix? etc. IMHO it really won't matter. WHAT IS IMPORTANT is to change the oil and filter frequently, more frequently than recommended. Keep that oil clean!

+1

Nipper: you are back! How nice to see your post. Over the many years that I've been on this forum, I have come to recognize the names of those posters who had something useful and relevant to say. And you are definately one of those people! So welcome back! COVID here in Western Canada hasn't been too severe, and by and large the population support our politicians and health care professionals. But I chose this weird time of self-isolating at home to have a heart-attack and open-heart surgery. Still in recovery in the hospital. We recently bought a new 2017 Forester 2.5 CVT, since my wife wasn't as enamoured with our old 2002 EJ2.5 5MT, which we also bought new (and which we still have). 2017 Forester: runs great, nice car. Lots of plastic, but these days plastic can be pretty strong. 'Eye-sight' works great, rear-camera, which I thought would be a gimmick, is indispensable. CANbus is a nuisance for me, as I like to delve into the 12V wiring system to make minor mods (eg windows won't open in ACC mode - very annoying). Radio and phone have to reboot each time the engine goes off - very annoying. Display has a rev-counter (unnecessary with the CVT) but no engine temp-gauge (what were the designers thinking?) And no cabin temp-gauge, only the temp-setting. Minor problems I suppose. And no dipstick for the CVT - yes really. But my wife loves the car, and it runs well. But my heart is with the 2002 EJ2.5, where I know every sensor by sight. But I'm an 'old-school' type of guy.

Potential liability. They don't want to get sued if the airbags fail to deploy. There may also be government restrictions dealing with used airbags.

+1. Photographs; photographs; photographs!

Wouldn't that clog up the filter?

May vary by year, but for a 2002 EJ251: - The left-side cover (looking forwards) Part#13278AA220 has an extra flanged pipe-stub, for the oil-filler tube. - The right-side cover (looking forwards) Part#13264AA143 is without the extra pipe-stub.

I don't think of Subarus as being low-maintenance. It's more a case of easy- (or at least easier-) maintenance than other makes. Just because other makes don't recommend a lot of maintenance, that doesn't mean that parts won't fail. Yes Subarus can live for a long time, but they do require maintenance, but this is made easier for the do-it-yourselfers.

I've had experiences like that, but it was a case of talking to someone more experienced, rather than their gender or their age.

I'm sure that others will chime in with more details, but this Wikipedia entry is a good place to start: Subaru EJ25 engine

http://www.car-part.com

www.car-part.com

Tighten Head-bolts? It may sound appealing, but I've never heard of this being recommended , nor of anyone doing it.

Maybe it's time for a coolant flush. Flush the engine, the radiator, hoses and remove and clean the overflow bottle. Then refill with all new coolant. That way you'll know whether any unusual deposits in the coolant are new or old.

To boot or not, that is the question ! (apologies to William Shakespeare)

Yes, that connector is easy to forget.