forester2002s
-
Posts
1201 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by forester2002s
-
May vary by year, but for a 2002 EJ251: - The left-side cover (looking forwards) Part#13278AA220 has an extra flanged pipe-stub, for the oil-filler tube. - The right-side cover (looking forwards) Part#13264AA143 is without the extra pipe-stub.
-
I don't think of Subarus as being low-maintenance. It's more a case of easy- (or at least easier-) maintenance than other makes. Just because other makes don't recommend a lot of maintenance, that doesn't mean that parts won't fail. Yes Subarus can live for a long time, but they do require maintenance, but this is made easier for the do-it-yourselfers.
-
I've had experiences like that, but it was a case of talking to someone more experienced, rather than their gender or their age.
-
I'm sure that others will chime in with more details, but this Wikipedia entry is a good place to start: Subaru EJ25 engine
-
http://www.car-part.com
-
www.car-part.com
-
Tighten Head-bolts? It may sound appealing, but I've never heard of this being recommended , nor of anyone doing it.
-
Maybe it's time for a coolant flush. Flush the engine, the radiator, hoses and remove and clean the overflow bottle. Then refill with all new coolant. That way you'll know whether any unusual deposits in the coolant are new or old.
-
To boot or not, that is the question ! (apologies to William Shakespeare)
-
Yes, that connector is easy to forget.
-
You were correct in trying that switch on the steering column; that's what it is meant to do (turn off the parking lights). The switch could be faulty. Try prying the switch up and out; then disconnect the switch from its wiring to see if that solves the problem. Otherwise, there could be a problem with the wiring deeper down in a wiring harness.
-
The AC compressor-clutch doesn't activate unless the signal-wire has voltage applied to it (this happens when the refrigerant is at the correct pressure). If the compressor is removed from the engine, the belt-pulley should spin freely.
-
I don't bother with an engine stand. Just use a few blocks of spare lumber on the garage floor. It's not perfect, and OSH may not approve, but it works. And it's not that difficult to remove the engine, but you do need a lift of some sort.
-
Long shot: In case the valves are sticking, try an oil+filter change.
-
My 2002 Forester, which has the EJ251 engine, does have the timing belt guide.
-
Take the joint apart, reverse the donut, and reassemble.
-
I would be cautious about tying the seat-heaters into another existing circuit. The seat-heaters draw quite a bit of power (they are 'heaters' after all), and could easily overload a circuit designed for something else.
-
An overheated bulb-connector might be caused by a non-standard bulb. Some folks use high-intensity (and therefore high-wattage) bulbs to get better lighting from the headlamps. Worth checking the other side as well.
-
History of Subaru CVTs: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions#Continuously_variable
-
The EJ25 engines typically have peak torque at around 4000 r/min. And torque drops off quickly below 2000 r/min. So I tend to keep the engine speed between 2000 and 4000 r/min (for my style of driving, there's rarely any need to go higher than 4000).
-
On my 2017 Forester, the Subaru designers have taken this to the extreme: there's no temperature gauge at all!!
-
Low on refrigerant? If so, clutch won't engage until the refrigerant pressure is higher.
-
Check your spare tire! And check that the wheel lug-nuts are not on so tight, that you cannot remove them using the Subaru-supplied wheel-wrench.
-
I replaced my original 2002 Forester radiator about a year ago. It had a hairline crack in the plastic header near to the upper hose. I had been losing coolant very slowly for several months, but there was no obvious leak to be seen. The coolant loss gradually increased until one day, when I lifted the hood, I could see steam coming from the header. My replacement radiator was a TYC from Amazon. Good price and delivered quickly. One year later and all is fine, with no more coolant loss.
-
I agree that axles are probably the main problem. But you should check the 3 engine mounts: - 2 lower-mounts between the engine and cross-member; - 1 upper-mount (dog-bone) between engine and fire-wall. If any of these mounts have failed (delaminated rubber?), this could be either the cause of the vibration, or else collateral damage from another source (e.g. axles).
