forester2002s

Check for hairline cracks in the ceramic-insulator of the spark-plug for the misfiring cylinder. A hairline-crack is hard to spot, but can allow leakage of high-voltage pulses, and might be giving you the misfire code.

It could be wheel-bearings. I have had body-vibrations on my 2002 Forester (worse at about 105 km/h = 65 mph), and twice this has been rear-wheel bearings. I found the source of these vibrations difficult to trouble-shoot. The wheels show no looseness; there no noticeable heat build-up on the hubs; and it's difficult to identify whether the vibration comes from front or rear, left or right. Eventually to noise and vibration worsened, and the source was obvious. A couple of ideas: - what happens if you slip the car into neutral, and apply the brakes very gently? Does the vibration feel different? - what happens if you drive at speed round a very gentle curve to the left or right? Does the vibration feel different? If the answer is 'yes' to either, it could be wheel-bearings.

Thanks for the update.

First things that I would try: - Switch #1 spark-plug with adjacent. Still get the same code? - Switch #1 spark-plug wire with adjacent. Still get the same code? Do these sequentially, not both at the same time. Otherwise you can't tell which one made a change.

Year & model of car?

Once you have a drum off, and before you touch anything, take a quick photo of the brake assembly. Do both left and right sides; they are slightly different. So if you have any doubt about how it all goes back together, you can refer to the photos.

This may be a stupid question, but have you tried a fresh battery for the key-fob?

My 2002 Forester 5MT does the same, and has since it was new. I think that it's normal.

Could be a number of things. But one easy one is to check is that the wheel lug-nuts are tight...

I can't comment on whether this is a good idea or not. But if you do cut & re-weld, consider that the assembly may have been rotationally balanced by the manufacturer. If so, have the machinist mark the two halves before cutting, and then re-weld in the same orientation.

OP = Original Poster PO = Previous Owner

or a partially-clogged fuel-filter?

https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html

Try changing the PCV valve. (use Subaru OEM only).

In my experience, over many years and with many cars, once a battery starts playing up, you might as well replace it sooner rather than later. You can try and be nice to the battery, but it won't buy you much time.

What was the CEL? A scanner may show it as a 'pending' CEL.

That's not how heat transfer works. The faster the fluid flow, the better the heat transfer. And the slower the fluid flow, the worse the heat transfer.

When the noise is loud, what happens if you brake gently? ..Brake harder?

This looks like the source: https://snugzusa.com/product/zlbxwt-aslpnewtsm

There's an awful smell (like fried grasshoppers?) when the grease from a split-boot hits the exhaust. But I think of it as a Subaru built-in feature, a bit like a warning light. That smell is hard to ignore, and serves as a warning to do something about it PDQ.

Found it on the street? Use it on your chapped lips? I think not. Perhaps it would work on those rubber door seals that dry out? Would smell good too.

The first of your eBay links is from Six-Star, which I think is a Subaru dealer (someone can correct me). They list all well-known manufacturers (although they mis-spelt Mitsuboshi). Total price at $240 is high but not unreasonable for OE parts. The second eBay link says "OE Spec". Who know what that means? And their total price is suspiciously low, $70 for all those components. I wouldn't touch them.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=side+mirror+glass&_sacat=33649&selvel=Year%3A2014%2CMake%3ASubaru%2CModel%3ALegacy%2CTrim%3ABase%20Sedan%204-Door%2CSubmodel%3ABase%2CEngine%3A2.5L%202498CC%20152Cu.%20In.%20H4%20GAS%20DOHC%20Naturally%20Aspirated%2CEngine - Liter_Display%3A2.5L&selcontext=productType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK%2CpartType%3APARTS%2CqueryType%3ABY_VEHICLE

Sandwiches fit into that strap nicely. My favorite: Peanut-butter and banana, on whole-wheat bread.

As a temporary measure, you could wrap the split boot with plastic-wrap (eg Saran wrap), followed by a covering of duct-tape. This will temporarily reduce loss of grease, and contamination by 'dirt'. But this will only help if the split is caught early on.